bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jun 24, 2009 20:42:17 GMT
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I'll ask the resto firm i do work for some times see what they use, i know they have 5L tins of red oxide they use (brush on stuff) they still do lead loading so i guess they use the best on the rollers and daimlers they do? They are re-chassising an austin healey sprite at the mo, i'll pop in see what they say, that has shed loads of welding going on at the mo
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R.I.P photobucket
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topcat
Part of things
Posts: 289
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Jun 24, 2009 21:02:29 GMT
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I've done almost all of my Morris's underside in brushed red oxide and traditional chassis black. The whole underside was covered in surface rust which I cleaned back to bare shiny steel the best I could. However at the seams its imppossible to get right in to clean the steel completely. I find red oxide is brilliant in these situations, when you are not 100% sure the steel is perfectly clean and shiny you know it will stick and protect.
I've found with a lot of zinc and anti rust paints that they need perfectly clean steel to work. Red oxide on the other hand will generally stick to anything.
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red lead FTW The reason I went with the eastwood paint was 'cos it was said to have more lead in than the other red oxide primers do/did. bortaf - be interested to hear what they are using. fray-bentos - get the rust out. Nothing beats getting the rust out. You can buy a cheap sand blasting gun from Machine mart for like £15. colt1982 - if the paint stays on, its staying on. try abrading a small area with a scotchbrite pad or something and seeing if it comes away or if it seems well stuck. You don't need an etch primer if there is a mechanical key (ie roughed up surface) for the primer to stick to. This applies to red oxide as well as zinc rich primers.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jun 25, 2009 17:00:40 GMT
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This is probably the "wrong" answer but...
I painted a bare metal chassis partly in red oxide primer until I ran out of it. Then did the rest in Zinc 182. Walked off and left it for a year in a slightly damp shed. When I came back the red oxide was still perfect and the zinc 182 had little rust spots starting to peep through. Surface prep was identical for both. So I go with red oxide. It's a fraction of the price too.
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1976 Suzuki GT550 Celica RA28...Gone
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jun 25, 2009 19:05:34 GMT
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Popped in today and had a word with the head body man, he says basicly zinc then red oxide (apparently paint sinks into zinc plated chassis unless they are red oxided first) zinc for welded areas where there's no chance of getting paint in/on afterwards (like on lap joints ect). This is the stuff they use, red oxide with added zinc, no etch primer just a good key and thent this on with a brush then paint on top or shultz for under the arches. and a blury pic of the re-chassis on the healy and some car waiting work in the car park
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R.I.P photobucket
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smile
Part of things
snappin' necks and cashin' cheques
Posts: 84
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Jun 25, 2009 19:22:53 GMT
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Thanks for your continued advise alistairk!! This is probably the "wrong" answer but... I painted a bare metal chassis partly in red oxide primer until I ran out of it. Then did the rest in Zinc 182. Walked off and left it for a year in a slightly damp shed. When I came back the red oxide was still perfect and the zinc 182 had little rust spots starting to peep through. Surface prep was identical for both. So I go with red oxide. It's a fraction of the price too. This is very interesting! Sounds like it was pretty much the perfect test too. Do you know what brand of Red Oxide it was? So many people seem to make it, I bet some are a lot more effective than others. I've chosen to use Bonda Anti-Rust Primer now, it's a little more expensive than Zinc 182 but it scored highly on that review I posted up earlier in this thread and my Dad also reckoned it was a winner. I think for the chassis and arches I'm just going to strip off all the old underseal, tidy the rust I can by either wire wheeling it off or treating with Vactan, layer up the Bonda Primer and finish it with a few layers of Chassis Black and maybe some Waxoyl. The rubberised Schutz stuff looks great but everything I've read suggests it has to be sprayed on, which not only requires a special gun, but is going to be VERY hard if you don't have access to ramps and can't roll the car. If anyone can recommend a product with a similar finish applyable by hand I'd be very keen to learn about it.
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Last Edit: Jun 25, 2009 19:24:39 GMT by smile
Feelin' high as hell, flyin' through Palmdale, skatin' on Dayton rims
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smile
Part of things
snappin' necks and cashin' cheques
Posts: 84
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Jun 25, 2009 19:28:03 GMT
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Nice one Bortaf!! I'd already started posting a reply before you posted that info up, looks like my final chosen method is the same as theirs which is good to know. Just wish I could brush Schutz on
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Feelin' high as hell, flyin' through Palmdale, skatin' on Dayton rims
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jun 25, 2009 19:42:18 GMT
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Your dad knows hi oinions and his primers schultz guns are under a score a go and cans are about a fiver a pop BUT as you say it's bloody hard without a ramp, well actually it's bloody messy without a ramp, it does tend to dust back on the user if your to close to the gun or the gun's too close to the car i had to T cut the stuff off me glasses last time i used it
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R.I.P photobucket
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Jun 25, 2009 20:41:41 GMT
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Searching that bonda rust primer + zinc has a lot of good write ups, any idea of a web site for the manufacturers so I can check up, and best priced suppliers?
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Bondaprimer is legendary stuff. I thought you couldn't get it over here though? I'm all ears.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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i got some bonda here...used it yesterday
its fairly dear...i emailed and bought it direct from the peeps, google should bring up thier info
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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thats a better price
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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Jun 26, 2009 10:24:08 GMT
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Last Edit: Jun 26, 2009 10:25:32 GMT by rtlkyuubi
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smile
Part of things
snappin' necks and cashin' cheques
Posts: 84
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Jun 26, 2009 11:56:31 GMT
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I got some bonda here...used it yesterday its fairly dear...i emailed and bought it direct from the peeps, google should bring up thier info How much did you pay buying it direct if you don't mind me asking? The cheapest place I've found so far is Ebay, here's the link stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/autopaintsbrightonltd__W0QQ_sidZ909221350?_nkw=bonda . Good thing is they've got a flat rate for shipping and stock a decent amount of oher useful products so there's potential to save more money.
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Feelin' high as hell, flyin' through Palmdale, skatin' on Dayton rims
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Jun 26, 2009 12:22:01 GMT
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yeah those prices sound okay
I bought mine several years back so cant recall the exact price , prob near £25 posted for 1 litre ?
doesnt seem to go stale in the tin either...or mine hasnt yet
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Last Edit: Jun 26, 2009 17:24:47 GMT by steveo3002
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Jun 26, 2009 16:52:20 GMT
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Keep buying this. It pays my wages ;D That looks quite good actually, perfect for a job I've got coming up. Would have cost me thrice what I can get it for if I went to halfords
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Jun 26, 2009 17:26:57 GMT
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any more info on that spray ? is it meant for painting on rusty old cars and then painting over it ? have you used it on anything thats been on the road for a while to see how it holds up? the price is right of nothing else lol
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Jun 26, 2009 19:14:34 GMT
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i have used Hammerite underbody seal.
It says on the tin it goes onto anything, has rust inhibiting stuff in it and waxoil stuff
Is that any good?
I have used on my skoda to clean a some surface rust and to seal over all the joints under the car!
I am not sure you can paint over it though! it stays fairly soft and greasy for a while!
Anyone used that before>
Lewis
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