ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,201
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nice story there. Goes to show that with the right attention cars can go on for ages.
I would have kept the chain though. One of my cars did 380,000 miles with the original chain being in fine fettle.
I'll have to look into the Motorcycle oil. I stopped using Semi synthetics a while ago (my Sebring ran on Semi and now it is leaking at the usual places despite 8,000 miles (breather seals) where my white car which was ran on Castrol Classic 20W50 (I ran it on Unipart 20W50) didn't leak at all. I do change the oil slightly before or on schedule though within reason. I assume you haven't had a massive problem with leaks on your engines?
Either way, keep the great work up.
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kilroy
Part of things
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Suit you sir...
Posts: 251
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No - no more leaks than with any other oil I have in use. With the older engines I have, especially those with any sort of thirst for oil, I use conventional oil at 20/50 as it is much cheaper than synthetic, and I doubt the engine will notice either way. With those I have overhauled, I do the first 1-2000k on conventional oil to ensure adequate running in before changing to synthetic. I would agree that synthetic oil seems more adept at finding a way out - I just try not to give it one.! I think the main reason I favour synthetic oil is because I just don't change it anywhere near as often as I should, and it seems to retain its lubricant qualities for longer. Cheers.
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That's some great work there, for sure ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Love the engine rebuild.
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Lovely job there, Kilroy. ![8-)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/cool.png) iirc the carbs and cam are from a TC or MGB, but what is the distributor from? If it's the standard 1800, does it need the springs and weights to match the TC advance curve? Not sure what affect the extract 100cc would have on the mixture requirements - perhaps something closer to the 2-litre SD1? Bound to be an MG expert who'll know where to start. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
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Bryan Miller Auckland NZ
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kilroy
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Posts: 251
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Hey Bryan - thanks for the encouragement. Carbs and cam are from a Marina 1.8HL - which is - at least in NZ - standard MGB fare. The distributor is from some B series 1800, but has the same 14 degree advance as that motor. They are very advance-conscious, especially since the advent of unleaded. I set them as close to 'pinking' - but not quite - as I can get. With my own experience of enlarging motors, the effect of drawing more air through the same jets, is that it richens them a tad. However - the increased gas velocity also improves throttle response, so the end result is desirable. With the SU its easy enough to lean them slightly over the entire rev range, but as per usual, its the synchronising of the pair that is the art. I am still tuning these chaps, but I am pleased with progress. 0-100kph time is dropping steadily as a) I improve the tuning, b) I drive it harder.. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) The motor is much quieter mechanically, so my changing the cam followers with the cam seems to have been a good move. I am having another set of steels widened - the hotwires shown on the car are only 6" wide - so the 205/60's have a higher profile, and jack the car up a bit. Good for the gearing - bad for the aggression factor. In ages past I experimented with a 45mm Dellorto carb on this engine configuration, and it went a lot better. I now have a 48mm Dellorto to fit to this one - but the manifold has been got at by someone with a grinder, so I need to have it built up before I can try it. Should be fun... Cheers.
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Good to see the pics of the 6" Hotwires, and compare them to the 7" Minilites. That extra inch really fills out the guards and gives a much more squat and assertive stance. :-)
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Bryan Miller Auckland NZ
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