|
|
Jun 22, 2009 20:00:41 GMT
|
Good stuff! Wintertime you say? Pah! This is wintertime! (wich is in december ;D) ![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y245/Mad_Maxx/RekordD003.jpg) But i dunno about using new oil in old cars, my opels makes lots of rattly sounds and acts rather... Badly, when introduced to synthetic oils ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png) What kind are you using?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2009 21:15:42 GMT
|
my bug hated synth so i had to feed him morris oil .. got a bit rattly and sometimes tight after a run otherwise..... ![:(](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/sad.png)
|
|
|
|
kilroy
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Suit you sir...
Posts: 251
|
|
|
I described the oil in the first post. Its a 20/50 synthetic designed for motorcycles - labelled 'Mobil 1 V Twin' here in NZ. I previously ran on 'Mobil 1 4T Racing' which is also a motorcycle oil, but rated 15/50 - a little thinner, but I figured close enough as my bearings were in good shape then. Most synthetic oils are too thin for engines designed with larger tolerances - such as these older units - and you would be asking for trouble to run them I feel. If you can find a synthetic that has the same viscosity rating as your engine was designed for - then no problems whatsoever. Another bonus - this oil stays thinner in cold weather - so your motor cranks more easily, plus the oil circulates more easily from startup - and thats the time when most of your wear occurs. I'm not in the habit of believing the sales hype on any product - but lets face it - the state of wear in this engine after the mileage it has done suggests that the oil is doing a fantastic job. Oh. Did I mention that I hardly ever change it..? Its bleedin expensive, and I have too many cars to keep track of, so I figure that the best oil should last a bit longer.. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Cheers all.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Surely as it leaks out you have to top it up. After a month or so thats a complete oil change. Bet your gonna tell us it doesnt leak oil now!
On a serious note I think I may try this motorcycle oil, Never thought of it before. Would it be ok in a "gearbox in sump" application such as my Allegro?
I have to agree, that core plug does look suspicious. I swapped all the core plugs on my Oxfords B series and they really needed a good beating to make them expand and lock in. If the dome on them wasnt knocked flat they just popped out.
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 23, 2009 7:22:31 GMT by Lankytim
1987 Maestro 1.6 HL perkins diesel conversion 1986 Audi 100 Avant 1800cc on LPG 1979 Allegro Series 2 special 4 door 1500cc with vynil roof. IN BITS. HERITAGE ISSUES.
|
|
DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
|
|
|
That's a stonking mileage and the bores are indeed in unbelievable condition! I think I too will be looking into the motorcycle oil and see how it pans out. Good to see the core plug hasn't caused any serious damage and the beast shall roam once more. Spit steels look fantastic too ![8-)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/cool.png)
|
|
Back from the dead..... kind of
|
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2009 11:33:41 GMT
|
i love it, v cool indeed.
|
|
|
|
kilroy
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Suit you sir...
Posts: 251
|
|
Jun 23, 2009 12:36:02 GMT
|
Esteemed fellow posters. Well - if that don't sound pompous - dunno what would.. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) As far as synthetic goes in a gear-in-sumpy thing, gotta be good for it.! Once again - as long as the viscosity is correct. Seriously folks - this stuff reduces wear. Period. How the hell else could you get 330,000k out of a Marina - let alone a modified one - and hardly treated with a great deal of respect even. As for the leaks constituting an oil change over time - yeah - I'll give you that - but hardly going to get any benefit from a full charge of clean stuff in one hit. From what I have heard - mineral oils break down over time - that is - they cease to lubricate effectively. Synthetics do not suffer this fate. Admittedly, they still get contaminated by crud - hence oil changes are good for your engine - but if you are going to neglect changes for periods exceeding what we might call 'prudent', then synthetics seem to be your best chance of diplomatic immunity. Thats my logic anyway. So far it seems to stack up. Actually - can't wait to remove the bearings to see how much wear they exhibit. If my suspicions are correct, there will be evidence of bits of old plook having ground their way about the journals, but presumably, surfaces where grubbage has not played a part should look pretty good. Just got to remember to take the jolly old photos what..? Will keep this updated as I go - I enjoy it - and if I'm wrong, and the whole donk is irrepairably pooted, then I will try to be philosophical about that too. Got one or two other Marinas to be going on with.... Cheers all. Kilroy ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/fleet.jpg)
|
|
|
|
Speedle
Posted a lot
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Need a Country Rock band in the Hampshire Area? https://www.facebook.com/DirtRoadDiaryUK
Posts: 2,221
|
|
Jun 23, 2009 14:52:00 GMT
|
when i used to have 2 cars and my motorbike id love choosing what car or bike to take to work... how the hell do you choose which one to drive? lol awesome work btw mate those steels look spanking ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
|
|
|
|
kilroy
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Suit you sir...
Posts: 251
|
|
|
Yay - progress..! Yesterday (Sunday) morning, the yard looked like this... ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/rr20.jpg) But as it didn't rain, I was able to eventually get the bonnet off, and introduce the engine hoist thing. As usual, once the hands are greasy, the camera is off-limits, but with the Marina it is possible to drop the whole engine/trans unit on the deck, then use the hoist to lift the front of the car, which allows just enough room to drag the motor forward into the 'v' of the hoist legs to clear the car, which can then be lowered again for the hoist to be removed. At this point I cleaned up and took a photo.. ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/rr21.jpg) The engine bay looks pretty hideous, and the paint is totalled, so not sure what will transpire there yet. I later dragged the power unit clear of the car and covered it against the rain. This afternoon, amidst light showers, I managed to split the two, make a first attempt to begin the cleanup operation, then drag both bits indoors as the rain got a tad heavier.. ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/rr22.jpg) Good news dept. There is no sign of any oil from the rear seal, and likewise, the inside of the bellhousing looks dry. Even the cam follower covers - which I had thought were the major source of oil seepage, appear to be intact. Now that all is revealed, it would seem that the oil was coming from the head gasket area near the rocker oil feed. Of course - with manifolds in place - none of this is visible. No worries there then - the head and gasket are being replaced - so its just a matter of how far I strip the bottom end. I think I can get away with slipping new shells in and not disturbing oil pump etc, but I will see what is revealed when I get there. If I'm going to change the camshaft, then most of the front will come off. Can't wait to explore..! Cheers all.
|
|
|
|
kilroy
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Suit you sir...
Posts: 251
|
|
|
Not giving up. Began removing the mankness... ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/rr23.jpg) Dragged out a spare block which will hopefully donate camshaft and followers, as my suspicion about a follower in trouble was proven correct - so both camshaft and at least one follower would need repair if I were to continue using them. As I intended to revert to the standard cam setup, the whole issue will be neatly sidestepped. ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/rr24.jpg) Fortunately, the cam and followers have now been removed from the spare unit and are definitely fit for use. Yay. Here are the lower main bearing shells, and the upper big ends - the halves that wear the most. No great drama - a reasonable amount of visible wear on the B/E's, but less than the ones I removed 15 years ago that had only done 140,000K - they were through to the copper backing. ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/rr25.jpg) I could almost get away with putting them all back as-is, but will play it safe (smart.?) and fit new ones. The crank looks fine - a few small scratches here and there - no doubt down to my failure to change the oil more frequently - but hardly cause for concern... ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/rr26.jpg) Yes folks - you're looking at a standard Marina crank after 1/3 million K's..! A new set of bearings may see it reach half a mill. Gotta check the oil pump now to make sure it can also go the distance. If not, I will remove the spare one and use that. Checked the shelves to see what bits I might already have.. ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/rr27.jpg) Quick search revealed top and bottom gasket sets, standard B/E bearings and oil filter. Gotta love this NOS stuff. ![](http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~esheep/rr28.jpg) That leaves main bearings and timing chain. For some reason, this motor has a double row chain like an mgb, while the spare block has a single row, as do most Marinas. I like the idea of the double row being more robust, so its worth the small expense. The chain actually looks fine, but I can't help thinking that as it has done at least 190,000K, and I'm hoping for another 200,000K - it might be the smart option. Thats about where I am up to tonight. Auto sump is off for panel beating - been doing a bit of low flying - and I still havn't started cleaning the engine bay. That will be a joy... Cheers all.
|
|
|
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
|
|
Jul 10, 2009 10:29:15 GMT
|
loving the banded spitfire rims !
|
|
|
|
kilroy
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Suit you sir...
Posts: 251
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 11:22:35 GMT
|
Well - been a while - work has been progressing. Thats nice... Got the missing bits - these were the only engine parts I did not already have on the shelf.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr29.jpg) Fitted the new bearings... ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr30.jpg) .. and put the old core plug back in.. suitably flattened this time.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr31.jpg) .. then fitted oil pump from spare motor as it has substantially less miles on it. Fitted the sump and turned the block up t'other way. Fitted the camshaft - also from spare block - this is a standard Marina twin-carb item, so is actually an MGB grind. I used the followers that were running on it - but before I put the followers in, I poured a litre of the good oil down the holes onto the cam lobes. After dropping the followers in place, I poured another two litres of oil into them. Then it was time to turn my attention to the engine bay. This was the part I had been dreading. Everything in the engine bay has been untouched for 15 years, thus is suitably covered in either oil or grime - occasionally both.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr32.jpg) I spread it over several days, as it was all done by hand. I began with kerosine, but graduated to "Simple Green" - an amazing cleaning agent that you spray on and either wipe or hose off - very efficient.! ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr33.jpg) Last weekend I had enough time to undertake the re-installation of the lumpy bits. Here's the drill. Place sturdy board under car, then deposit auto and block onto same.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr34.jpg) Bolt them up, place engine hoist around them and raise car body. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr35.jpg) Slide power unit under car using cleverly placed small pipe under board.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr36.jpg) ..then lower car, transfer hoist to engine, and raise into place. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr37.jpg) With rear crossmember and front mounts bolted up, its a good time to have a light refreshment while checking progress. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr38.jpg) This drip indicates a FAIL on the panel beating of the auto pan.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr39.jpg) .. so that came off again for welding. Over the next few days it was a routine of cleaning and/or painting one thing and adding it. starter, alternator, distributor, pulley and fan, fanbelt.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr40.jpg) .. then the head - clean as a clean thing.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr41.jpg) .. radiator, some new hoses, and the rocker cover to keep the dust out. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr42.jpg) The welded pan was refitted and a litre of fluid added to perform the acid test. After that, it did this for a while... ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr43.jpg) Tonight I am mostly stripping and cleaning the carbs. Hopefully tomorrow will be devoid of rain... ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
|
|
|
|
smellyferret
Posted a lot
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Back in a retro after 7 years!
Posts: 1,121
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 17:10:33 GMT
|
wicked work dude! I'm a sucker for old estates!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 20:55:18 GMT
|
I forgot that marinas didnt have an engine cradle. I often used to wonder what would happen if the engine mounts failed while the car was being driven. Would the body pole-vault over the engine and box or would the engine and box simply pass underneath the car, leaving the body to coast gently to a halt.
|
|
1987 Maestro 1.6 HL perkins diesel conversion 1986 Audi 100 Avant 1800cc on LPG 1979 Allegro Series 2 special 4 door 1500cc with vynil roof. IN BITS. HERITAGE ISSUES.
|
|
kilroy
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Suit you sir...
Posts: 251
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 21:52:28 GMT
|
I think the starter cable would save the day.. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Actually - it would seem they gave the theory some thought. There are brackets which overlap the top of the rubber mounts - so they cannot fall through if the bonding gives way. Saw that coming...
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2009 22:18:41 GMT
|
The engine and gearbox is designed to pass under the steering rack in the event of a front-end shunt, the rack adds strength to the bulkhead. Everything in front of the suspension turrets is designed to crumple and be replaceable, Leyland did whole front inner wing sections as part of their spares. The same is true at the back, the boot floor is designed to fold up and the fuel tank is designed to leave the vehicle in one lump instead of splitting open. Quite well thought out, really! Doin' well Kilroy, keep up the good work!
|
|
Rover Metro - The TARDIS - brake problems.....Stored Rover 75 - Barge MGZTT Cdti 160+ - Winter Hack and Audi botherer... MGF - The Golden Shot...Stored Project Minion........ Can you see the theme?
|
|
kilroy
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Suit you sir...
Posts: 251
|
|
|
Time to get yo'all in the picture. The rain finally stopped - so I had to do something constructive.! Whacked my rebuilt carbs on it... ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr44.jpg) Cranked it over with the plugs out until I had oil pressure, then bunged the plugs in and attempted to find signs of life. There were some - but they were not convincing. I tried advancing the timing by moving the distributor - I had refitted it exactly as it had previously been - but of course, forgot that I had changed the camshaft..? The third adjustment got me running, and I had to advance it even further to get a nice steady idle. Oil light came on and caused me great concern - but I found - quickly I add - that I had not put enough oil in it to satisfy all the places that oil goes to on the first start. Having warmed it adequately, I left it to cool overnight so I could retension the head and adjust the valve clearances. Next morning I lifted the bonnet to discover a water leak from the rear core plug..!! Aarrrgggghhhhh!!!! I don't believe it. Couldn't fault the installation - but here ya go - the mother leaks. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr45.jpg) In the photo you will see several things. 1. The godawful narrow gap in which to do anything. 2. The unmistakable signs of a rust trail from the small but obvious leak. 3. Signs of my desperate attempt to avoid pulling the engine again. The small white lumps you can see just below the end of the bolt from the bell housing are an amazing substance called "knead-it". I came by a small piece of it here... www.fastmarinamagazine.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2832This was the last remaining piece. Perhaps I will be safe now. So far - it appears to have done the trick - but several other things have also occurred. I painted up the sump guard - a very necessary piece of Marina kit here in NZ.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr46.jpg) .. and here it is fitted.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr47.jpg) Basically, the car is now complete - with everything bolted on and semi tuned. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr48.jpg) Put a few miles on it - not entirely happy with tuning or other stuff - and the wof (mot) had expired while it was laid up. A quick test with my friendly local chap showed up some cracked front brake hoses, and I already knew, the discs were worn to the point they were starting to give some odd braking effects. Next step would be to replace all that lot. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr49.jpg) At this point, I decided to have another go at the carbs. I had fitted non-standard needles many moons ago, but decided that with an original cam fitted again - the best place to begin sorting the tuning would be totally original. Back went the standard needles. On went a pair of used but good condition discs, and a pair of new hoses. Never happy with standard wheels - but the banded steels are currently fitted to my new workhorse - so I dragged out the old hotwires, and painted one up. This.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr50.jpg) .. to this.. ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr51.jpg) Thought that was probably the best I could do, so the rest followed suit. Now looks like this... ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr52.jpg) ![](http://homepages.vodafone.co.nz/~esheep/rr53.jpg) Still some tuning to go, but I sense a return to form here. The trusty beast that gave me 15 years of trouble free motoring seems to be re-emerging after a number of annoying teething problems - none of which I was really expecting. I shall continue to clean up the tired paint, and continue the short duration test drives until I am convinced nothing is going to fall off it - then we shall see what its made of... Good to be back.. ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
|
|
|
|
Speedle
Posted a lot
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Need a Country Rock band in the Hampshire Area? https://www.facebook.com/DirtRoadDiaryUK
Posts: 2,221
|
|
|
top work chap, wheels are perfect! fingers crossed you found all the niggles ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
|
|
|
|
bazzateer
Posted a lot
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Imping along sans Vogue
Posts: 3,653
|
|
|
Must admit, I was surprised to read that you'd re-used the old core plug. Unless I mis-understood or just plain missed something! Either way, great work ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
|
|
1968 Singer Chamois Sport 1972 Sunbeam Imp Sport 1976 Datsun 260Z 2+2 1998 Peugeot Boxer Pilote motorhome 2003 Rover 75 1.8 Club SE (daily) 2006 MG ZT 190+ (another daily) 2007 BMW 530d Touring M Sport (tow car)
|
|
kilroy
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Suit you sir...
Posts: 251
|
|
|
Felt I just had to use the old plug as a 'finger' to fate. Unfortunately, it would seem there was a little corrosion around the edge of the recess that I did not notice. By filling the edge of the recess on top of the plug by careful use of extended finger, I seem to have 'knead-it' in the groin. So far, so good...
|
|
|
|
|