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Now explain this to me.
Because of the car cutting out twice, I ordered NEW : dizzy cap, rotor arm, points, condensor, HT leads, plugs.
These came yesterday..... woohoo ??
Last night after work I duely presented at Chez Myrtle to replace the parts.... did so, but not plugs or points, as plugs had not yet arrived, and points seemed fine, also did not want to start playing with them.
Anyway, swopped alll the new parts in, and tried to start it..... dead.
Followed all the bits, to try eliminate, or isolate the problem, swopping old and new parts till all the new bits and old condensor were on..... JOY.... Fired up.
We then did a test drive of about 8 miles, and litterally back at home, as I went for reverse to park her, she cut out again.... never to start again, at this point I thought sod it.... something else has to be wrong.
Now ordered another condensor off Evilbay, as it was the part originaly suspected.
Any ideas ?
Oh, and off course given time restraints, not going to Santa Pod with her this weekend. However the Taunus Transit will be there ;D
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Last Edit: May 29, 2009 6:17:50 GMT by grizz
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Sounds like the condensor, but are you getting any spark? remove dis cap, pull king lead from cap, put end near to earth and 'flick' points with screwdriver. If no spark then likely it is condensor. other than that, check fuel delivery and petrol cap breather vent.
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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if the condensor is at fault check the points again as it has probably burnt them out.
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Ether
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,450
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May I suggest roosterignitions.com? It might save you a lot of bother in the future, mate.
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Rotor arm? There was a batch of bad ones around a while back (they were mostly genuine Lucas ones - although I don't know if Fords used Prince of Darkness electricals on the 100E). They'd work fine for a while - between 10 and 100 miles, before the heat got to them. Then the insulation would break down, shorting the spark to ground.
To check it, point the king lead at the metal bit on the rotor arm and spin the engine or flick the points. If there is a spark from the lead to the rotor arm then you know the arm is dead.
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purplevanman
Posted a lot
Way too orangey for crows
Posts: 3,830
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Coil breaking down? ballast resistor, if fitted? if all else fails stick a rope on and tow it, it is just possible you may find a ford expert at the Pod jrevillug, thanks for that tip, never knew how to test the arm before
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Welder, fabricator, general resto work
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May 29, 2009 10:53:18 GMT
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Glad to see you're replacing everything, this will eliminate most running problems and breakdowns in advance Sounds to me like it's spark related. You could have a dead plug but this would just make it misfire. Have you got sparks at the leads? Two things to check with points: are they opening and closing properly with a good size gap and are they clean? I changed my condensor for a Peugeot 405 unit because I could bolt it on something other than the distributor. It could well be fuel related because sidevalve pumps have a poor diaphragm in the pump. Take the fuel pipe out the carburettor and turn the engine over on the key. It should really pump loads out, like woah unexpectedly loads pumping out . If it's small pathetic squirts then either the diaphragm is stretched too far and you need a new one from Small Ford Spares or the pump is full of gunk. It might also be worth taking the top off the carburettor and cleaning it out.
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Graham
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,282
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May 29, 2009 11:25:05 GMT
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have the points closed over tighting of the screw can cause this
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Maximum signature image height: 80 pixels
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,650
Club RR Member Number: 1
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Anglia 100E DEAD - Why ???Nathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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May 29, 2009 12:02:06 GMT
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Coil breaking down is one I have had and the symptons your having are very close.
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May 29, 2009 13:13:15 GMT
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Id plump for coil problems too. I had a problem when rebuilding my Capri, as you have I replaced everything (including the coil) but after a while the engine would fire up as normal and run ok for a bit then just cut out and not fire up at all. Turns out I probably left the ignition on for a bit at some point and overheated the coil which means when it was running the coil would get really hot and not be able to work properly hence engine cutting out and not firing up after running fine for a while. If you get it fired up again, feel the coil and see if its getting hot. New ones are about £18 or something from LVW etc...
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nugget
Part of things
Posts: 840
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May 29, 2009 16:01:58 GMT
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Possibly battery? Or what everyone has said.
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