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May 19, 2009 10:26:09 GMT
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Hi Guys, I am going to ask some stoopid questions but only in the hope I will not be so stoopid when I get some of your advice. I have my car booked in for a lower half respray next week. The bodyshop is happy that I do some prep, in order to save them time and me money. I am stripping panel by panel but I am not sure how far to go. Some panels are quite thick in filler from the last paint job. Nothing to scary underneath, it is obviously just used to smooth out the panels. Should I go down to bare metal where possible? I do not want to go to bare metal if it will mean the bodyshop then has to spend loads of time building back up. Is there any point me sanding just the topcoat off?
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May 19, 2009 10:49:34 GMT
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You don't have to take all the paint off to bare metal. I left my old paint underneath and primed over the top. You can just flat the top layer down with 240-grit paper. Might be worth a quick phone call to the sprayer and find out what type of primer they will use and what grade of paper they recommend. I used 180 under my primer and it was fine but if they use thin primer it'll show through that rough.
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May 19, 2009 11:31:23 GMT
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best bet is ask the guy thats doing it , everyone works differantly and the last thing you want to do is prep it the opposite of how he expects it
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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May 19, 2009 12:18:24 GMT
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...so, unless I suspect some rust problems in a specific area, leave it alone basically. I am currently spending ages scraping off filler and in most places, sound metal underneath. If I see bubbling or any imperfections, I will sand it back in that locallised area. I would phone the bodyshop but I have pestered him a few times about numerous things.
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May 19, 2009 12:20:55 GMT
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TBH, I'm not sure how much time you will save them. its easy to mess prep up. if its as simple as sanding the gloss off the existing paint then this will take the body shop like 10 minutes to do so will save you like 2p.
if you see bubbling you should cut it out and weld in new metal. Bubbling is rust coming through from the back of the panel.
Not knowing what you are working with makes it difficult to advise
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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May 19, 2009 12:55:34 GMT
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TBH, I'm not sure how much time you will save them. its easy to mess prep up. if its as simple as sanding the gloss off the existing paint then this will take the body shop like 10 minutes to do so will save you like 2p. if you see bubbling you should cut it out and weld in new metal. Bubbling is rust coming through from the back of the panel. Not knowing what you are working with makes it difficult to advise I agree with this, at worse case it could actually end up costing you when they have to put things right. You really need to get in touch again, can you take the car there and run through it with the painters?
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Prud
Part of things
Posts: 308
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May 19, 2009 20:59:08 GMT
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The only body prep you should do before sending a car to the painters is to strip it. As in, take off all the chrome, the lights, the bumpers, the glass etc. That stuff is fiddly and annoying for a shop, so a lot of dodgy brothers out there just mask around them. It's also the part of the job that can really add up the hourly labour charge. Do it yourself, that way you lessen the risk of having the little bits grow legs. And if you want the engine bay sprayed, leave your engine at home when you drop the car off at the painters.
Example: A couple of years ago I worked in a panel shop. There was a HQ Kingswood that I had to get the lights and bars out of. Normally a few seconds job, a couple of screws and bolts and they fall out. But not this particular one. The bolts in the bars had seized. Ended up taking a day to strip the bars out of it. It was one of those cars that just fought the entire time.
As for sanding - unless you've had practice, don't. Partly because you're not going to save that much by doing it. Mostly because sanding isn't as simple as you think. It's not a brain-intensive job, but it's one that's really really easy to stuff up. And the last thing you want is to stuff it up so they have more to repair. If you want to learn how to sand, hang around a friendly panel shop and get them to teach you. For the primer, all paints are chemicals. Every brand makes them differently, and some combinations can cause problems. Let the painter choose every step.
The only time I've ever taken a car back to bare metal was for welding repairs. If the paint underneath was good and well adhered to the metal, it was simply sanded, primed and painted.
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Last Edit: May 19, 2009 21:05:13 GMT by Prud
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May 19, 2009 21:10:24 GMT
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Always approach where it can see you, move slowly, don't make any sudden movements, stay where you won't get kicked. Or is that horses? Plenty sensible advice already given above
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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