My Sebring engine runs very nicely but I doubt it would on the road due to the dizzy.
Whilst it has zero wear in the shaft etc. it stays on 20 degrees advance according to the timing light, independant of what the revs and vacuum are doing (vacuum works perfectly but the pipe connectors are split) I guess the carbon bit from the cap must have got stuck within the weights. I did suspect the light, but the white 'GT and a mate's Silvia claim that the light is fine.
So I figured I would take it out or adjust it at the very least. Not quite. I cannot turn the dizzy at all in the block, nor can I get the dizzy out of the block I have soaked the dizzy in penetrating spray but it doesn't appear to be making a blind bit of difference.
What would be your course of action. Its a Lucas 45D4 Dizzy stuck in a 10,000 mile Ivor Searle engine. If I can get it out I will at least be able to free off the weights inside as well as adjust the timing.
It does have a Britpart electric conversion but I can't imagine that it would make the timing stick surely?
Whilst it has zero wear in the shaft etc. it stays on 20 degrees advance according to the timing light, independant of what the revs and vacuum are doing (vacuum works perfectly but the pipe connectors are split) I guess the carbon bit from the cap must have got stuck within the weights. I did suspect the light, but the white 'GT and a mate's Silvia claim that the light is fine.
So I figured I would take it out or adjust it at the very least. Not quite. I cannot turn the dizzy at all in the block, nor can I get the dizzy out of the block I have soaked the dizzy in penetrating spray but it doesn't appear to be making a blind bit of difference.
What would be your course of action. Its a Lucas 45D4 Dizzy stuck in a 10,000 mile Ivor Searle engine. If I can get it out I will at least be able to free off the weights inside as well as adjust the timing.
It does have a Britpart electric conversion but I can't imagine that it would make the timing stick surely?