kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,991
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Mar 26, 2009 11:57:05 GMT
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Hi all, recently my car has been curse word, when warming up would be its normal self, as it got a bit warmer towards running temp it would start to splutter and cough, then 5 minutes later would be fine. tried it today after about 3 weeks of not running it and it does it constantly now. it idles fine though. won't rev at all, and sounds like a subaru boxxer engine i pulled up at home and give it some welly out of gear and it whistled and popped at high revs, closely followed by smoke. I'm guessing my engine is a goner, but i hope not asi can't afford to sort my 1.6 out just yet, although it will be ready soon its the insurance and tax costs that don't help. any suggestions on what it could be and how buggered it is are welcome. the car in question
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Mar 26, 2009 11:59:55 GMT
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timing fault perhaps?
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Mar 26, 2009 12:00:38 GMT
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Hmm, first bit sounds like a lead or coil breaking down, nor so sure about the second bit though.
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kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,991
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Mar 26, 2009 12:01:58 GMT
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leads are pretty fresh, cant be them, i hope. could be coil, god knows how old that is. i thought to myself it sounds like its firing a little bit later than it should be. not too clued up on timing though
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Mar 26, 2009 12:06:30 GMT
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Never dismiss the 'new' or 'nearly new' part Fallen in that trap many times. New parts fail as easily as old parts.
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Mar 26, 2009 12:07:39 GMT
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Sorry, don't know MK1 fiestas.
You on points/condensor?
Check over the whole ignition thing before you go any further.
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Mar 26, 2009 12:07:58 GMT
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By the sounds of it you've lost a cylinder. To pinpoint the problem, pull each plug lead off in turn using properly insulated pliers with the engine running. Eventually you'll get to one that makes no difference to how the engine runs whether it's connected or not. To further pinpoint the problem try substituing a different spark plug and lead on that cylinder. If you haven't got spares, try swapping between cylinders to see if the problem goes with the plug and lead. If it does, replace the plugs and leads.
If it doesn't, check the distributor cap for cracking or burned contacts and if it has points have a look at them whilst your under there for burning.
If none of that turns up anything a compression test would be next for me because I can scrounge a tester. If that cylinder is a long way down, put an egg cup full of oil in it and try again. If it goes up, compression is going past the rings. If it doesn't, it's valves or head gasket.
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Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
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kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,991
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Mar 26, 2009 12:11:38 GMT
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it's on eleccy ignition as standard i have my old leads i'll give em a swap and see what happens. cheers fellas
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Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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Mar 26, 2009 12:59:09 GMT
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Cheap 1.6 as an interim?
you sir, are a mentalist :-)
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Last Edit: Mar 26, 2009 12:59:22 GMT by Tim
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mk14dr
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 4,472
Club RR Member Number: 85
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Mar 26, 2009 13:31:48 GMT
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Boo-hiss at the fiesta giving you jip. I bet thats the last thing you need... Theres some good advice here, I concure with the ignition side of things, but thats purely because you pretty much described what the scRot used to do, but that was dodgy cheap points. But if you've ruled that out.... Good luck, let me know if your looking for any bits and Il see what I can do
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kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,991
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Mar 26, 2009 13:45:32 GMT
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i put the old leads back on and it sounds better. checked plugs and they are all very sooty with the 3rd having a bit of oil round the bottom of the thread. 3rd lead is now one of the new ones as the old one is knackered. runs better than before. i took the 3rd lead off and ran it and thats what it sounded like. shall i invest in a new coil? i'm probably better off jacking this engine and sorting my 1.6 out and borrowing some money, problem is i don't have the time for an engine swap right now being in the last few weeks of a very busy final year at uni
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Mar 26, 2009 14:21:21 GMT
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give the plugs a good clean with a wire brush and carb cleaner and see how it runs. From the sound of it the coil is ok. rotor arm and dizzy cap in gud condition?
give plugs a clean and see what it runs like, if its still sounds like its running on 3 cylinders u need to find out which one is missing, do as keith said
"To pinpoint the problem, pull each plug lead off in turn using properly insulated pliers with the engine running. Eventually you'll get to one that makes no difference to how the engine runs"
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mk14dr
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 4,472
Club RR Member Number: 85
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Mar 26, 2009 14:38:55 GMT
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When did you last stick some plugs in? I had mine in bits last weekend but when it all went back together it was running on 3 - totally inexplicable, I took the plugs out cleaned them all up, made sure all my connections (coil,earths,ht's) were all good. When all that didn't sort it, i went and bought some plugs £10 spent and it hasn't run aswell in ages. I figured there must have been a hairline crack in the ceramic, always worth thinking about if you've ruled other stuff out
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kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,991
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Mar 26, 2009 15:05:12 GMT
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plugs where done at same time as leads and oil, not too long ago and not done much mileage since. will give em a clean and check em.
it was running fine a few weeks ago, but i barely use it any more, maybe once every 2 weeks at the most.
i've started the strip down of the new 1.6 ready for gaskets as it needed a new timing chain cover on it. got a new fuel pump on it and i'm gonna put a piper 285 in it i reckon, if its not too difficult. thing is I'm taking it for its MOT in a couple of weeks so need to get this sorted out pronto
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,244
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Check your rotor arm. On more than one occasion I have seen new items fail. Best to keep your old one as a spare even if it is not too hot as you know what you get. With the newer ones they do have a habit of just dying randomly.
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tycho
Part of things
Posts: 151
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By the sounds of it you've lost a cylinder. To pinpoint the problem, pull each plug lead off in turn using properly insulated pliers with the engine running. Where do you get properly insulated pliers from? Even conventional ignition is in the 1000s of volts. I know this cos I tried this on a Metro once with a pair of 1000 volt pliers. Kind of hurt a lot & in the end it turned out the reason I was running on 3 was cos I'd lost a big chunk of exhaust valve.
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Mar 28, 2009 12:42:01 GMT
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not telling you how to suck eggs but in the old skool mechanic days it was amazing how often we would see cars like yours with this problem caused by the air filter being overlooked ot the point it was clogging up and causing the carb to draw excess fuel richening it up to hell and blacking the plugs, try it for a second without the air filter on..
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Mar 28, 2009 12:42:29 GMT
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oh and obviously check the choke aint sticking partally on
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Mar 28, 2009 17:25:54 GMT
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By the sounds of it you've lost a cylinder. To pinpoint the problem, pull each plug lead off in turn using properly insulated pliers with the engine running. Where do you get properly insulated pliers from? Even conventional ignition is in the 1000s of volts. I know this cos I tried this on a Metro once with a pair of 1000 volt pliers. Kind of hurt a lot & in the end it turned out the reason I was running on 3 was cos I'd lost a big chunk of exhaust valve. I just use my hands, if it shocks me i know its workign
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93fxdl
Posted a lot
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Posts: 2,013
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Mar 29, 2009 16:14:05 GMT
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a couple of suggestions find the darkest place you can to park the car and then have a look at the ignition system as any tracking will be visible also if you are getting a shock off the leads they are failing but anyway when fiddling with ht keep one hand in your pocket not touching the car as if you do get a shock it goes down your body not across your heart car systems arnt likely to realy hurt you but when fiddling with electrics i tend to be a coward if you want a bit of insulation just wear washing up gloves (pink ones are a easy way to destroy your street cred) ttfn glenn
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