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Aug 31, 2005 17:18:04 GMT
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Suddenly occured to me that I'm not too clued up on rust prevention methods and what options there are out there....now, I know about waxoyl and BL's rustproofing system, fitted as standard to all it's cars, but I was thinking..
I use my car all the time - in Winter too, in slush and snow, so what can I do to protect it. Can Waxoyl be painted over a bit of the outer lip of the arches to protect against chip damage?
What about helping shield wheelarches and nasty mud traps?
Or are there decent waxs that will protect paint well, and hence stop rust appearing?
Just seems like a good idea to collate some info, so we can carry on outlasting everyone else!
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Aug 31, 2005 17:23:43 GMT
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Only use it on sunny dry days....;-)
I think one of the magazines did a test, I'll try to find it.
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oli
Part of things
blah
Posts: 141
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Aug 31, 2005 18:24:32 GMT
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hhmmm sorry I can't add to it but I think it would be a good idea. I've been to a website called www.rust.co.uk and got a free catalogue that shows some products to use. I think the best thing to do is wax injection (drilling holes and injecting balls of wax into the car) also what I've recently looked at is rustbullet soem great claims so I've bought some......
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Rust prevention methods...slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Aug 31, 2005 19:09:01 GMT
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Regular jet washing under the arches etc.
Regular undersealing/waxing
IME you cant just do it once and expect it to last forever. Once its there it keeps coming back. Wax wears off paint gets chipped etc. and it starts to come back very quickly! Waxol is suppose to have a nutralising agent in it which helps but ive yet to be convinced.
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ImpManiac
Part of things
Imps... Imps... Imps...
Posts: 868
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Aug 31, 2005 19:36:02 GMT
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A lot of people swear by Waxoyl. I've heard some very bad things about it, though and would use alternatives. Apparently one of the best ranges of products is the one called Dinitrol. I once heard that it is the stuff used by Saab and others as part of their anti-corrosion treatment. They do cavity waxes, underseals, etc. Frost Auto Restoration Techniques (F.A.R.T. How cool?! ) sell the Dinitrol range. I'm
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1966 Singer Chamois sprint/hillclimb car in white over blue two tone 1975 Triumph Stag long term project (over 20 years so far) in colour TBA 2003 Vauxhall Vectra GSi 3.2 in black sapphire
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Nick
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,483
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Aug 31, 2005 19:54:37 GMT
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everytime i use underseal whatever i put it over stil rots... redoxide only from now on
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idea stolen from rattely eddie.
this weeks car count "5"
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Aug 31, 2005 20:11:09 GMT
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Must admit I've always used Waxoyl in my laughable atempts to keep the tinworm at bay... however, on the A*s*t*r*a there was a patch of rust on one of the strut towers under the bonnet... gave it a good wire brushing and a rub down and a good dollop of black Waxoyl to try to stop it getting worse, 12 months later the rust was showing through again. Maybe it's better as a final precaution on sound painted metal? (Although it is claimed to kill rust)
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... the only injury I sustained was a bumped head when I let the seatbelt of without realizing the car was upside down and that's not really the car's fault.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Rust prevention methods...slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Aug 31, 2005 20:23:15 GMT
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I'm going to try Dinitrol this time i think. Wasent relly that impressed with the waxol ive put on my mini.
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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Rust prevention methods...Davenger
@dminifreak
Club Retro Rides Member 140
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Aug 31, 2005 23:07:53 GMT
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Haha, BL rust proofing, that's a laugh The only way I have found is bare metal, jenolite and red oxide, then paint over the top of it. Underseal just hold moisture against the bodywork, worst thing in the world. Nothing will stop what is already going on, it's a BL car, it will already be rusting. Wire brush or grind what is already there, jenolite it and red oxide, it's a pain but it's the only way
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racer86
Posted a lot
'72 BMW 2002 / '72 Alpine A110 Gordini
Posts: 2,184
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Aug 31, 2005 23:19:16 GMT
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ive just waxoiled the shuv (5 litres!) my dad has always sworn by it and proved it works, he worked for a chemicals company who supplied various rust preventing chemicals (he produced the stuff the army uses to rust proof battle ships). The other thing ive found that works really well is felt roof adhesive instead of underseal (which is the devils work). It dries rubbery and is waterproof.
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Think my vehicle(s) could do with some Waxoyl and some undersealing,.. Undersealing I know how to do (nasty job though),.. but I've never Waxoyl'd anything. Whats the plan with that, and doesn't you car smell of slightly melted wax afterwards?
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Waxoil is brilliant if you apply to car (in box sections, inside sills, up inside suspension mounts etc.) when it is still recent (i.e.under 5 years old) and this will pay dividends as car gets older, but as slater said you must re-apply to certain areas periodically. Also Waxoil is not as brilliant as they claim with regards to 'killing' rust thats already there.
Dinitrol is also very good but tends to be of thiner cosistency than Waxoil, in some cases this can be a good thing ('creep's along inside seams better), although the thicker waxoil may be better for stone impact areas (such as inside wheel arches). So the answer here is to use both on your 'motor'
Another substance to use is old engine oil! Years ago my father and his friends always used to use this on the undersides of cars when based in Germany in the 1950's and 1960's due to the (then) winters they used to endure. Their method was to get an old brass pyrene fire extinguisher (usually perloined of one of the military vehicles ;D) filled with old oil and then 'spray away' onto the underside of their old Opel Kadett, Kapitain, Rekord or Ford Taunus or DKW Junior or Borgward Isabella or Renault Gordini (think i've remembered them all); a very messy job so don't go doing it on your driveway ;D. Today i'm a believer of old engine oil brushed or sprayed on in places ...and it's free.
At the end of the day you are only slowing down the process of decay (destruction!), if you use your car all year round it will slowly rust (having said that if you store a car badly for the winter months and don't use it, it will still decay!)!
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Rob
Posted a lot
You know, for kids!
Posts: 2,515
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i think that if theres rust there nothing's gonna stop it ! IMO you need to get rid of the rust, treat the surface (jenolite is good) and then coat it with primer / paint / rust proofing. also, for older cars, if you can find some wheel arch inners from a modern car (ie: mondeo ones fit in marina arches) and fit them, this will stop the mud building but.... as Slater says - make sure you get under there and get rid of the gunk - it may look like dried mud but theres a moist rust forming heart in the middle ! [glow=red,2,300]whoohahahaha...whoooooaaaahahahahah[/glow](thats my horror laugh)
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Rust prevention methods...DarrenW
@darrenw
Club Retro Rides Member 74
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On wire-brushed rusty metal there's little to beat POR-15 IMO. It's expensive, but damned good. Frosts sell it I think. I painted both sides of a section of my old bay van with it, directly over a large wire-brushed rust patch and there was no change whatsoever to the condition after two years. You're supposed to prepare the surface first etc but it's amazing stuff. Just don't get it on your hands, it literally doesn't come off for about a fortnight!
Waxoyl is great too, but it's a preventative rather than cure. Once a panel/box section is rusty, it won't really stop it advancing. But if it's all OK, it'll do a lot to stop rot starting. You just have to re-do it every 12 months or so.
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Rust prevention methods...DarrenW
@darrenw
Club Retro Rides Member 74
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Think my vehicle(s) could do with some Waxoyl and some undersealing,.. Undersealing I know how to do (nasty job though),.. but I've never Waxoyl'd anything. Whats the plan with that, and doesn't you car smell of slightly melted wax afterwards? On my Golf and our Mini, I just get them up on axle stands over a large polythene ground sheet. Then load up an old paint gun with melted waxoyl (stand the tin in a bucket of boiling water for a few minutes), fire up the compressor and liberally spray the entire underside It gets everywhere so cover your hair, use old clothes etc Bits that REALLY need looking after I get a brush and apply it with that, nice and thick. It doesn't stain paintwork if you gently wipe it off with some white spirit or petrol on a rag. Personally, I love the smell, it's part of owning an old car... Especially as it burns off the exhaust etc
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HytestA
Part of things
Cant beat a good bit of rubbing :D
Posts: 539
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Sept 2, 2005 14:12:53 GMT
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You could consider Morris Anker wax, not sure how it will fair on the underside of a vehicle but it would be effective in the arches etc. I applied 2 coats to my van earlier this year and that rain is still beading off in a lovely fashion. I've also seen it mentioned for use by off-roaders.
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Sept 4, 2005 21:54:58 GMT
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mercmad
Posted a lot
Flush Hard,it's a long way to McDonalds.
Posts: 1,740
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Sept 5, 2005 10:03:38 GMT
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On wire-brushed rusty metal there's little to beat POR-15 IMO. It's expensive, but damned good. Frosts sell it I think. I painted both sides of a section of my old bay van with it, directly over a large wire-brushed rust patch and there was no change whatsoever to the condition after two years. You're supposed to prepare the surface first etc .... por15 Also have a product that is applied the same way that waxoyl is applied.It is a type of urethane based oil that you inject into the box sections of your car,Being a urethane it cures in the presence of moisture. so if the sill is leaking and water is in there ,this stuff joins on to it ,cures and seals the air out and the rust in ,which dries and stops spreading.Again it's incredibly expensive but works out a lot cheaper than cutting and welding rotten steel www.por15.co.nz/por_products/sw2.htm
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Last Edit: Sept 5, 2005 10:08:58 GMT by mercmad
Many years ago I changed my driving style to cope with rising fuel prices; I have now reached the stage where I am contemplating keeping my eyes shut in order to lower wind resistance.
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