|
|
|
|
|
IT RUNS!!!  Bought $13.75 of gas, stuc it in the tank, pulled the fuel injector, cleaned the minor dirt out of it and set about cranking it over and over... It's massively over-fueling. It's flooded each time I try to start it so I've got either a vacuum leak or a bad sensor, a bad connection (or all three!) Before I could grab the camera it had stopped and refused to start again. But it goes! All the hard work paid off. No clouds of blue smoke, it just ran, and pretty well, considering. Happy ;D --Phil
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Niiiiiiiiiice !!  Well done. |
| |
|
|
Brian Damaged
West Midlands
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 9,555 
Club RR Member Number: 33
|
|
|
|
Sounds like you're getting there Phil. Epic engine build-thread, have really enjoyed reading it. One of my mates had an 11 Turbo back in the early 90's that was insanely quick (well it was after Collins Cars had chipped it to a reputed 185bhp anyway...). Unfortunately it seemingly had a gearbox made from Hershey bars.  Looking forward to seeing this running soon! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks for the comments guys! Brian- this one has the same gearbox (JB3) as the 1.4 turbo models, just with different ratios. They are interesting and crunchy to say the least- I drove a 19 with the same type and it was notchy but with the engine rated at 94hp I don't think this one should be too much of a problem. Mind you, I've not had it driving the car yet so we'll see --Phil |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Fuel pressure regulator? or fuel return lines clogged...
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Fuel pressure regulator? or fuel return lines clogged... Might be, tried to pull the pressure regulator off last night but it's stuck and I don't have a gasket for it, nor any gasket paper to use for when it inevitably fails. I'll have to pull the pipes off and put the airline to the return pipe. --Phil |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oh dear.
After trying it this morning it would appear that my somewhat excessive cranking of the starter the other day has turned the contents of the starter motor's reduction gearbox to swiss cheese.
Going to pull it and see if it's salvageable, if not, recon one is $97. Sucks. Sad thing is it sounded quite happy when it was hot, must have melted all the grease out of it or something.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Having given up with the idea of jacking the car up to lift off the starter I began on troubleshooting the electronics. Two main causes behind the fuel ratio being incorrect on this ECU are the two temperature sensors it has- both in the intake manifold, one senses the intake charge temperature and the other senses the coolant temperature, and along with a few other variables determine (amongst other things) the correct injector duration. Someone kindly looked up the correct values for me in the Renault service manual, as follows: °F - °c - ohm 212 - 100 - 185 ohms 160 - 70 - 450 100 - 38 - 1600 70 - 20 - 3400 40 - 4 - 7500 20 - (-7) 13500 0 - (-18) 25000 (-40)- (-40) 100700 I set about working as realistically as I could. Stuck it in a mug of boiling water straight out of the microwave. It cooled off just a shade by the time I could photograph it, but that's not bad, just over 200 Ohms.  Okay, what's up the other end of the scale? Freezer! With food in it, for a stinky fuel-covered sensor probe. I think not. Next best thing? Stink the room up with the aircon cranked up. Not very scientific this one but it gets pretty darned cold to about 8-10 degrees C, so 6.5k works for me.  Content that the thing was working more or less correctly I chucked it back in its hole and took the ambient (28C) reading.  2.5k. About right, I think- according to the table above that's pretty much spot on. Measured the resistance of the ECU on both inputs, gave an even reading within 20 Ohms on both so the wiring back to the ECU should be good.  Plugged in the sensor and voila, a bit of calculation shows the resistance of the ECU and the resistance of the sensor in parallel.  Couldn't get the coolant one out- a lack of space and a lack of willingness to slip an open-ended spanner off the thing at fault there. Plus I think it's corroded in. It does however read the same resistance within 200 Ohms of the other one at ambient so I'll have to see what happens to it when it warms up. It doesn't get much cooler than this here lol So, that's the sensor values hopefully correct to the fuel map, next up as has been suggested is the fuel pressure regulator... next suspect. --Phil |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Investigation continued today. After knowledge that the fuel tank was a bit damp and there was a possibility that the fuel filter was full of crud I replaced the fuel filter. Ran the pump a bit and SQUUEEEEEEEEEEE'd the air out of the regulator. Cranked it over a bit, a few hiccoughs from the intake but nothing you could call "running". Gave up on that. Figured the next place on the list might be a poor connection on the ECU itself. Climb under the seat. -snif snif- Oho! That's not a good smell! A touch to the ECU's casing reveals that it's somewhat warm hot. Figure it's possibly just a poor connection. No such luck. Pulled the lid off it to reveal:  One ECU, 1980's style. Given a closer look:  U17 has caught fire. I was wondering where the smoke was coming from. Donkeynads. It looks to be some sort of amplifier or something, one half of it appears to be alive, and the rest of the board was trying to function, but I have a feeling that's probably a lot to do with the fact it doesn't want to run. You can tell they expect it to get hot because it's clipped to a big chunk of aluminium.  Not that it particularly helped. Well, kinda at least. The board is unserviceable. Time to find out what the function of U17 is and see if it is a common failure point, or if its demise can be caused by some other faulty component in the injection or ignition system. Oh well. Undeterred, I continue. --Phil |
| |
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
|
|
|
Keep going mate, you've put too much work in to get stuck now.
Matt
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2010 13:36:32 GMT
|
Keep going mate, you've put too much work in to get stuck now. Matt Trying to not lose focus. Found a store on eBay that sells those components individually, but they're located in the UK. Everywhere else that has them listed sells them in multiples of 1000 or so, which is unhelpful. My plan right now is as follows: Obtain a replacement ECU. Repair this one. If all else fails, there's Megasquirt. --Phil |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2010 17:47:58 GMT
|
|
What actual component is it that failed? When an ECU fails it's always nice to have something that's clearly shafted because you've got somewhere to start! When things fail in a non dramatic fashion it can be so frustrating!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2010 19:35:33 GMT
|
Is that one of the voltage regulators thats failed ?? which has then fried one of the chips as a by product ?!?! I'm no electronics expert BTW.... |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2010 20:18:05 GMT
|
|
Of the three pictures above, the middle one shows the bad component. It literally caught fire (or at least the coating that's all over the board to stop the humidity here affecting it did).
As to its function I'm not totally sure, but it is a driver IC for something on the fuel injection side of things.
I have two of those chips on order now, should be here some time next week hopefully.
--Phil
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2010 20:19:28 GMT
|
Is that one of the voltage regulators thats failed ?? which has then fried one of the chips as a by product ?!?! I'm no electronics expert BTW.... No, it's a twin op-amp. (Datasheet says it's designed as a stereo audio amplifier!) so function as yet unknown but it looks like it's been grounded where it shouldn't have. A thorough test of the car's wiring is in order now. --Phil |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2010 20:57:15 GMT
|
I stand corrected ( It does look like my VIC 20 though in there...) Who manufactured the ECU then !?!? |
| |
Last Edit: Aug 11, 2010 20:57:19 GMT by Thrasher
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2010 22:18:05 GMT
|
I stand corrected ( It does look like my VIC 20 though in there...) Who manufactured the ECU then !?!? Technically Siemens. (Look up RENIX/FENIX) The injection/ignition management system was a joint venture between Renault and Bend ix giving the name Renix. It has been used by Renault, Jeep, AMC, Eagle, Volvo, Peugeot, Citroen etc. It has been through many revisions, isn't OBD2 compliant in its early forms (this one lol) and has a tendency to be a complete PITA. --Phil |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2010 23:03:50 GMT
|
|
ECU troubles are the hardest to solve.
I think in the USA several Jeep tuners might be able to repair it.
Otherwise Fastchip in The Netherlands surely known how to handle this, they also produced r-tuner once. Which was a programmable Fenix ECU.
Good luck!
|
| |
 Click picture for more |
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2010 23:14:56 GMT
|
ECU troubles are the hardest to solve. I think in the USA several Jeep tuners might be able to repair it. Otherwise Fastchip in The Netherlands surely known how to handle this, they also produced r-tuner once. Which was a programmable Fenix ECU. Good luck! I've seen the FastChip onebefore, and the information module too that goes with it. Whether the data from this one is the same as any others remains yet to be seen but I'm going to attempt a repair first. Someone has pointed out that it most likely powers the idle control motor- I think mine has died- so it's probably been running full-on against a jammed up motor and burned the circuitry. Beyond that someone has offered me one for sale. Might have to go that route if this fails. Worth a shot though --Phil |
| |
|
|
Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
|
|
|
|
Has to be plan C; Megasquirt! |
| |
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup
1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka)
1980 Volvo 240DL
1995 Mazda Miata MX-5
2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2011 MK Indy R (building)
|
|
