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Seeing the whole car is a nice change to it being squished into the parking lot. Yup, it spend most of its' time under the carport, which is full of a lot of junk. Starting it, moving it, parking it up again... it's better to work under the cover here anyway, shade is a good thing. --Phil |
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Mailman arrived this morning whilst I was at work.  Ooooh! Prezzies! Open it up, and.. it's... a....  Jen-yoo-wine Ren-olt Turn Signal Switch Woohoo! (Better yet it fits and all the functions work) I just have to put it in the car but I did try plugging it into the loom tonight and it makes everything happen that should happen. At least Renault kept the same design fitment for their turn signal switches across quite a few vehicles. This one is marked R11 / Extra but looks as though it'll fit Super5/9/11/Extra/etc. Stamped 2004, it also looks like a different internal design, and sounds a lot more solid than the original one I had. Hoping this revision lasts better without breaking. Still, for $23 I'm not complaining. --Phil |
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Apr 20, 2011 11:15:09 GMT
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Got to be easier than repairing your old one, if that broken bit could even have been repaired reliably.
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Apr 20, 2011 11:30:21 GMT
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The repairs to the old one are possible but the plastic is brittle with age and grease and is permanently under tension at one end and stress at the other. Not a good combination. That's why they break.
The broken pieces are miniscule! I don't have the tooling available to be able to repair it right now, so that's why I snapped at this option when it presented itself. It was a blind guess (and a bit of a crapshoot) if the parts were going to be compatible, considering they were for different vehicles and were made 17 years apart. I got lucky.
If all goes well I am going to locate it on the steering column tonight, that way I can get it all back together and not have the bottom cowl being suspended by the dash panel dimmer wires any more...
--Phil
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Apr 20, 2011 13:29:57 GMT
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Ooh, and a good bit of news, friend of the wife and I came by the house to drop something off and she took a look at the GTA- she's going to be putting a brake tag (MoT equiv.) on the vehicle. After a brief nose about she said that yes, it's up to a good standard and she'd most likely pass it on inspection. Bonus. Got a few more things to do to it first (oil change, lower balljoints, new headlight bulbs, bolt on engine to gearbox brace, do something with the exhaust) and it'll be all set.  --Phil |
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Apr 20, 2011 23:18:34 GMT
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Got the new switch located in its final resting place (hopefully) tonight.  The cowl is bent and doesn't fit. Story of the vehicle really. On the up-side, all the functions work nicely: Even the auto-cancel arm fits and flips the turn signals off. Also note the car idles nicely now. It has however, become a complete pig to start from cold. the battery has had it, hence it running to do the lights- the voltmeter has a field day with the indicator circuit  One thing off the list. Next up inside, fix the dash down, change one of the lightbulbs and refit the fascia. --Phil |
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Last Edit: Apr 20, 2011 23:24:38 GMT by PhilA
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It got dark tonight. I decided to see how badly out of line the headlights were.  Kinda hard to tell. They aren't very good.  No, strike that. They are terrible! I know the bulbs are shot, but c'mon, this is a joke, right? I'm supposed to see at night with these bolted to the front of the car? Sheesh. Going to see if I can persuade the wife that I need headlights. On the up-side I managed to fix the number-plate lights again, hopefully for good this time. They had both quit working because of bad earths and the plastic is brittle and out of shape, meaning the contacts weren't 100%. Bending the tangs a bit fixed it. I think they shed more light on the floor than the headlights do.  Looks okay, but I'd love to get a set of phase-2 rear lights for the back of it as the brake lights are larger, there's two red lenses (brake and fog) as opposed to the one on these and the indicators and reverse lights are smoked. I would wire both red lenses as brake lights. People here are used to seeing more red on the back of a car, and these ones are kinda tiny by USA standards. The hard-to-start problem appears to be fuel starvation so I need to investigate that. I re-seated the power supply for the pump at the battery end as it wasn't making a good contact. It's too late to fire it up now, so I'mma see tomorrow to see if it is going to prime correctly tomorrow when the ignition is turned on. --Phil |
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Last Edit: Apr 22, 2011 1:19:46 GMT by PhilA
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Apr 22, 2011 18:52:12 GMT
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Gave the driver's side a bit of a vacuum out. It was full of grass and gravel and other muck, which is odd because it's only sat on the driveway.  The carpet is still very stained from the previous heater matrix failure. Need to work on that. think I shall put the mats in the washing machine though. Took a look at the fuel lines. Bridging the relay and making the fuel pump run caused the pressure regulator to squeal, so I took it apart and it was full of crud. I guess the pipes weren't as clean as they could have been. New filter time before it sees the road. It had a new filter a few months back but that's probably full of dirt as the tank has been on and off since then.  Runs nicely now, still a bit hard to start but I'm putting that down to the mixture. I need to check all the connections again. Stuck the fan shroud on now that it's glued. Makes the fan a lot more effective and a lot quieter.  Had a rummage about and fitted the gearbox-to-engine brace, which supports the lower part of the 'box. Good idea, if you ask me.  (Was impossible to photograph) Decided to tackle the dash. Swapped out the engine-overheat lamp for a working bulb and plopped everything back in the hole. Lifted the steering wheel off as that's the only way to get the dash back in:  Fitted a bit of duct tape to the driver side window defogger tube:  With a lot of cursing, bending of plastic and scraped knuckles, it's in and working. Even the time is correct:  Looking a bit better. Pick the ECU up and fit the fusebox back up:  Took a step back, and the front is looking like a car again.  That'll do for today. --Phil |
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Apr 23, 2011 15:33:27 GMT
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Those are scary headlights, I think for the sake of your safety your wifey needs to let you buy new ones. Sounds like as good an excuse as any to me! Interior is looking very smart now.
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Discovered this afternoon that I must have nudged one of the connectors putting the dash back in because putting the lights on with the engine running now kills the tacho. Dialing the instrument lights down brings it back progressively, so it's deffo an earth. Joy. the connectors are nearly impossible to get to with everything in place :/ Went out today and missed a car show. apparently it's going tomorrow but today's jaunt was a 190 mile round-trip so that's unlikely to happen  --Phil |
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CIH
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,466
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Apr 24, 2011 18:44:57 GMT
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I feel that pain. On seperate occasions I managed to break both the dash illumination and speedo when dickig about with my old Manta's dash.
Kick ass thread btw.
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Apr 24, 2011 23:24:58 GMT
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I feel that pain. On seperate occasions I managed to break both the dash illumination and speedo when dickig about with my old Manta's dash. Kick ass thread btw. Thanks! I had a bit of a rummage around on the connectors on the back of the dash but to no avail; Liberated a broken piece of plastic (again) which will have to be re-glued. Still the tacho drops off with the lights on Looks like the dash is coming out yet again. I hate this because it is so fragile and decrepit and old. Something always breaks on it, no matter what. --Phil |
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Welp, that was short-lived. Tore the dash out again. AGAIN.  Yup, again, all the plastic pieces and the PCB trails have become detached from the plastic. AGAIN. (Spot the recurrence)  Throw a bit of superglue at the copper and clip it down with a bulldog clip. another piece had lifted up on the corner and torn off. that got clued down and held with a paperclip. One piece had torn off altogether, but that was for a light that isn't used so it got trimmed to save it tearing the rest of the top off which is used.  One of the tracks had broken off again. This was the broken segment that was causing the tacho to die when the lights were switched on. Looks like I didn't solder it well enough the first time round. Cleaned it back and heated it up properly this time- that caused the plastic to melt but it's no worse than it was when began:  Cleaned the excess glue off, tested the connections. doesn't look pretty but if you figure that big old light fitting beside it is one of those tiny fiddly little lamps that you always drop down the back of the dash when trying to work by feel alone... they're kinda small.  Shall put it back in tomorrow. hopefully I shall have to only clip the things on once and it'll all work. I'll have to test EVERYTHING before putting the dash back in, all known combinations... --Phil |
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Apr 26, 2011 23:53:50 GMT
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Flung the dash back in. Carefully. Reconnected the connectors and the speedo drive. Settled it down into its hole.  Looks the same as before but now everything works: The Aggravating Buzzer is a reminder to fasten your seatbelt. It is a bimetallic strip which heats up once the ignition is switched on- it takes a short while to heat up and turn off, and is somewhat gentle about it, hence the BZZZZZZZZZzzzuip it makes. On a side-note my foglights have quit working. The relay is operational. I'm thinking the bulb has probably burned out. --Phil |
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stefan
Posted a lot
If it isn't broken fix it till it is
Posts: 1,598
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Got to love french electrics
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POWER IS EVERYTHING WITHOUT CONTROL
1985 Honda jazz
1997 Saab 93 convertible
2010 transit 280
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That's brave fixing such a fiddly bit of fragile antiquated electronic circuitry. Job well done by the looks of things too.
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Brigsy
Part of things
Posts: 617
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Apr 27, 2011 10:21:11 GMT
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I bought a new plastic housing & circuit board for my gt turbo clocks for £35 last year (still available from the dealers), if you have any more probs might be able to sniff out a nos item?
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Apr 27, 2011 13:28:51 GMT
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Got to love french electrics Almost as bad as vintage English electrics. That's brave fixing such a fiddly bit of fragile antiquated electronic circuitry. Job well done by the looks of things too. Thanks. It's mostly a case of fix it or it won't work. The plastic snaps if you do so much as rest against it. Additional torques cause it to shatter. I bought a new plastic housing & circuit board for my gt turbo clocks for £35 last year (still available from the dealers), if you have any more probs might be able to sniff out a nos item? Possibly. The case has gone bad for sure but I'm not sure if the PCB's are the same. If they are the case I could live without but the PCB would be useful. That is, if it's the same layout. I'm not sure it is, although it does look as though mine has cutouts for the oil level gauge and light. --Phil |
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stefan
Posted a lot
If it isn't broken fix it till it is
Posts: 1,598
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Apr 27, 2011 20:11:02 GMT
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Yes but I bet english electrics have more smoke in them
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POWER IS EVERYTHING WITHOUT CONTROL
1985 Honda jazz
1997 Saab 93 convertible
2010 transit 280
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Apr 27, 2011 20:32:01 GMT
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Yes but I bet english electrics have more smoke in them True. French electrics give up without a fight and then go on strike. --Phil |
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