ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,241
Club RR Member Number: 170
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A mate's Dolly Sprint is leaking clutch fluid, but we can't seem to find where it is leaking it from. The hose is a braided item, and it has a new Slave cylinder on it around 5 months ago. We're at a bit of a loss as to where it is (thinking that it could be weeping from the reservoir, but there doesn't seem to be any signs of leaks), and I thought that maybe it's all in the master cylinder, but an internal one.
What ideas do you guys have? I'm wondering if I've missed anything obvious.
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I would guess that fluid is getting past the seal and leaking inside the car.
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... the only injury I sustained was a bumped head when I let the seatbelt of without realizing the car was upside down  and that's not really the car's fault. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,241
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Well, I think that's the master put under fire. Time to give that one final look as well as inside the car.
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Did it leak before the new slave cylinder too?  |
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Could you not have an assistant hold the clutch pedal down and clamp off the flexi. If you have a good pedal you know to check the slave. If not suspect the master.
You should still be able to clamp a braided flexi. Just don't go too tight and put a bit of cardboard between the jaws of your chosen clamp.
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Are you sure its leaking? what are the symptoms?
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,819
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Ive had a slave let the fluid out because the clutch was worn, and the seals popped out of the end of the cylinder, than were pushed back in by the clutch, took ages to find, try squeezing the rubber gaitor on the end of either cyl and see if its full of fluid,
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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v6pop
Part of things
Posts: 110
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Cant remember if a dolly has a servo but I have had these leak internally and fill them selves up.....just a thought.
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,819
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Cant remember if a dolly has a servo but I have had these leak internally and fill them selves up.....just a thought. clutch servo?  ?? |
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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v6pop
Part of things
Posts: 110
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Cant remember if a dolly has a servo but I have had these leak internally and fill them selves up.....just a thought. clutch servo? ?? Doooh!!!!! Must learn to read......................................... |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,241
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Did it leak before the new slave cylinder too? No idea, I guess I'll have get him to ask the previous owner (I think he's JonyPI on the Dolly forum). Symptoms include it using fluid (not sure on how much but I think he's almost used a litre in 2 weeks.) It was never too hot on going into gear. After we bled it (which was a pain with the bleed nipple being at the top of the slave) it was better than before with the pedal biting point going more towards the centre of the the travel as opposed to the bottom. Cheers for the help so far fellas, hopefully after another look we'll get to the bottom of this. |
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The trick with the slave is you cut a small access panel with a dremel or similar in the transmission tunnel (can be done from inside) then just rivit on a piece of tin or similar over it with a bit of rubber edging or sealant It could be that the 'new' slave is leaking also - but you'd probably have noticed that! |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,241
Club RR Member Number: 170
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The trick with the slave is you cut a small access panel with a dremel or similar in the transmission tunnel (can be done from inside) then just rivit on a piece of tin or similar over it with a bit of rubber edging or sealant It could be that the 'new' slave is leaking also - but you'd probably have noticed that! Now there's something I should have thought of! I think Jony reshelled the car using an 1850 shell, so maybe he made the access panel. I'll have a butcher's for it, but failing that do you have a picture of where you have cut yours in the past in case we cut it somewhere we shouldn't? :lol. Thanks again:). |
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Last Edit: Feb 8, 2009 20:12:55 GMT by Lewis
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,241
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Cheers for the pic Lewis. That will make life much easier in the future. Problem found. It's leaking at the master cylinder (no idea why we didn't look then, as I have on previous cars lol), so that will be getting some new seals in the not so distant future. Normally I've seen them swell at the master, but never leak, but hey ho . Well done to that man who suggested it. It's now also not starting. He readjusted the points (spark was weak to the plugs, but very good at the coil (HT leads are new, and the cap looks new too with no corroding)) and it's starting again, but it's again come to a halt. Hopefully, new points will cure it, which I've picked up as well as condenser. It worked on my white 'B anyway, which was an awkward starter even on points less than 2 years old and with 3,000 miles on them. |
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Last Edit: Feb 18, 2009 0:33:44 GMT by ChasR
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If the spark is strong at the coil and weak at the plugs I'd suspect the leads, cap or IMHO most likely the rotor arm.
If the leads are new but are old-stock carbon thread they may be past it.
On some NOS caps the central carbon brush goes high-resistance, but the new ones don't. OTOH, the insulation on some new ones leaves something to be desired.
The rotor arm lives a hard life - spinning round at half engine speed with a few 10,000 volts across a piece of insulation no more than 3mm thick. There was a batch of bad ones in genuine Lucas packaging going round not long ago. They'd work fine for anything between 5 and 500 miles before the insualtion broke down leading to a loss of spark. I'd try another - maybe an Intermotor one or, if you can find one, a good NOS lucas one.
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and that's not really the car's fault.
??
