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Jun 21, 2005 19:30:45 GMT
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i will soon be embarking on respraying the wife bug, now i've not done this before so a bit aprehensive about it.
i have tried to find out what i need to do ie primer, rub down, primer etc but cant find anything for the complete novice.
anyone offer any help before i really flump it up!
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racer86
Posted a lot
'72 BMW 2002 / '72 Alpine A110 Gordini
Posts: 2,184
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Jun 21, 2005 19:36:28 GMT
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I'm just in the middle of spraying my red shuv, this is only the 2nd car ive painted and the 1st time ive used 2pack, but any help i can give fire away..... in fact hang on untill tomorrow ill be spraying my first coat of red and ill let you know.
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Last Edit: Jun 21, 2005 19:37:38 GMT by racer86
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Jun 21, 2005 20:06:55 GMT
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cool, what have you done so far? the bug is bare metalled at the moment so we are starting from scratch
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racer86
Posted a lot
'72 BMW 2002 / '72 Alpine A110 Gordini
Posts: 2,184
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Jun 21, 2005 21:09:29 GMT
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so far ive rubbed down the origional paint with 320/240 grit to key it and filled any imperfection, sprayed a 1st coat of primer and used knifing stopper to fill any little marks and rubbed down with 400 grit, sprayed 2nd coat of primer and rubbed down with 800grit. Ive used Celly primer as its easier to work with and goes off fast in this hot weather but am going to paint it with 2pack as it gives a better finnish.
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Jun 21, 2005 21:12:08 GMT
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i it ok to spray 2k over celly? no reaction or anything? and what is knifing stopper? not heard of this
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racer86
Posted a lot
'72 BMW 2002 / '72 Alpine A110 Gordini
Posts: 2,184
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Jun 21, 2005 21:34:34 GMT
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Yeah its fine to use celly primer and 2pack paint once the primer has gone off its gone off. Knifing stoper is sometimes called fine surface filler, its like a thick paint you don't have to mix it like filler.
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Jun 21, 2005 21:40:06 GMT
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i'll be getting me some of that then!
;D
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Jun 21, 2005 22:57:56 GMT
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Give me a ring tomorrow and I`ll walk you through it Check out the "Some of my Rides" Thread in Readers Rides....... All the paintwork on the Bike was my own..... ;D Used to paint the Lotus F1 cars and Toyota Group C cars many years ago Preparation is the Key.... No pun intended The painting is the relatively easy bit ;D Cheers Dom
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Last Edit: Jun 21, 2005 23:01:23 GMT by CR500Dom
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I'm just in the middle of spraying my red shuv, this is only the 2nd car ive painted and the 1st time ive used 2pack, but any help i can give fire away..... in fact hang on untill tomorrow ill be spraying my first coat of red and ill let you know. Have you got all the breathing gear for use with the two-pack?
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1972 Fiat 130 1985 Talbot Alpine 1974 Lancia Beta Saloon 1975 + 1986 Mazda 929 Koop + Wagon 1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica 1977 Toyota Carina TA14 BEST CAR EVER!!!!!!!! 1979 Datsun B310 Sunny 4-dr 1984 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo 1983 Honda Accord 1.6 DX GONE1989 Alfa 75 2.0 TS Mr T says: TREAT YO MOTHER RIGHT!
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Ive seen on ebay 2K half face respirators for around £25. No air feed required supposedly. But as far as I know isocyanates can enter your body through the skin as well. Anyone know anything about these?
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Last Edit: Jun 22, 2005 8:44:46 GMT by PhoenixC
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racer86
Posted a lot
'72 BMW 2002 / '72 Alpine A110 Gordini
Posts: 2,184
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yeah i have all the breathing gear and a full body suit (sexy). My dad used to work for a company mixing industrial chemicals so he has all the kit. Its nasty stuff.
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mercmad
Posted a lot
Flush Hard,it's a long way to McDonalds.
Posts: 1,740
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Jun 22, 2005 13:17:09 GMT
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The preparation is the Key,BUT,doing the prep properly is the hard part. The secet to a really good paint job is to follow these steps. 1, WASH THE CAR .Use the best degreaser you can buy first,then wax and silicone remover.DO this as thorougly as you can.strip the car to the metal,spray the car with Epoxy etch base coat.It's twopak so the use of breathing gear is essential. 2. over this spray a mist coat of cheap black paint,it's alright to use a spraypak aero sol for this,It's called the guide coat. 3.Now you get a piece of wood,or rubber,1 foot long and 2'' wide,and about 1" thick,this is your sanding board,never use you hand to rub it down ,it leaves dead spots all over the car. rub the guide coat down , you will see all sorts of low spots where the black hasn't been rubbed off.fill these with bondo,yes it works on top of the etch primer.sand it down with a minimum of 80 grit till it flats out.If you rub out the etch primer,recoat it.Smooth the bondo with 180 grit until it's almost right .then use 280 followed by 320. 4.,the car must then be sprayed with base coat primer,It's easy sanded,but the real secret here is something nobody will ever tell you,spray lots of coats,so it it's really thick. the thicker the better. Leave it a minimum of 7 working days,The solvents will still be comming out of the paint.Cover the car with another guide coat. 5 .using your flat stick or a good selection of sanding blocks,rub out the guide coats until you get a good surface over the car with NO low spots.Be prepared to recoat with primer and guide coats I have done this often and on older cars i have used up to 15 liters of paint in this part of the process to get a car flat. The first grit should be 280 to get the furry bits down ,followed by 320.finally the car should be rubbed down with 1200 .You must have reflection in the primer before you even begin to think aboutr spraying the top coat. Check this site out,Huge amounts of info here on how to paint like a Pro ,by someone who never painted a car before,on a Chysler imperial !!! www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Body/Painting101/index.htm
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Last Edit: Jun 22, 2005 13:20:36 GMT by mercmad
Many years ago I changed my driving style to cope with rising fuel prices; I have now reached the stage where I am contemplating keeping my eyes shut in order to lower wind resistance.
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Jun 22, 2005 16:55:09 GMT
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nice one mercmad, the best directions i have seen yet, thats all i wanted, in plain english!
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