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Aug 25, 2008 15:47:10 GMT
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How am I supposed to fit the engine to the stand? Right when I have used a stand before (ie not mine) they haven't had these tubes on... see the ones at the end of each of the 4 adjustable arm jobbies? Normally just mount the engine on the stand using the bellhousing bolts, right? Now I can't see any reason for those tube jobbers to be there because... 1. they are longer than the bellhousing bolts anyway so I can't get a bolt through and into the engine to mount it in the 1st place 2. the bolt would be a lose fit in the "tube" even it were long enough to go through the tube and then screw into the block. Unless you had some kind of bush in there... 3. surely the tube just causes increased leverage on the mounting head thingy by move the engine 1.5" or so away from the plate? just' curious if anyone is using one of these and how they get on with it. ta.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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Aug 25, 2008 15:49:54 GMT
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just a design feature, means you can get a spanner inbetween the support bars and the block, it might also be if theres a flywheel/clutch still attached.
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Aug 25, 2008 16:27:31 GMT
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yeah, I have like 20 feet of clearance as I can't bolt the motor oonto the stand LOL
If I had time I'd made a plate to fit, which has the same bolt pattern as the bell housing, but I don't. So I guess just find some really long bolts which are same thread pitch as my bellhousing bolts?
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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topcat
Part of things
Posts: 289
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Aug 25, 2008 16:28:43 GMT
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I have one just like this. I suppose they assume you have bolts that pass through the engine backplate and bellhousing and have a nut on the end. Luckily the BMW engine i was using did have bolts long enough so I didn't have to measure find or buy some. It did mean that I could sort the rear main oil seal on the stand though!
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Aug 25, 2008 16:30:31 GMT
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6 Yup - My Da has one of those, with the tubes. I rebuilt an Imp engine on it. Luckily for me, the cylinder head bolts are the same thread, so they went through the tubes without any difficulty.
Perhaps loose the tubes?
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Aug 25, 2008 16:38:22 GMT
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I was bothered about the fact that as the tubes are quite wide diameter as well I'll need to use washers to stop the bolt heads pulling through too, meaning, that a Cadillac big block V8 will effectively be supported by 4 washers... Which makes me nervous. a mounting plate feels like the safest idea here, and ditch the arms entirely.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Aug 25, 2008 16:58:02 GMT
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just thinking out loud here,can you bolt the stand to the side of the engine,using the engine mounts etc?
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Aug 25, 2008 17:14:03 GMT
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I mounted mine on one of the engine mounts too, I made a tube with a plate on either end, one on the motor, one onto the stand. It means its easier to turn the motor over, remove or install the clutch etc, chuffed!
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No engine too large,no car too small,,,,,
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Aug 25, 2008 17:21:06 GMT
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oh come on! go find some longer bolts and bolt it up and stop worrying.
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Aug 25, 2008 17:42:58 GMT
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I had an SBC on one of those no probs, got some HT bolts from the fastener shop to fit the b/h end, and some big ol' washers. Did seem odd, but held up fine with no trace of bend or anything untoward on the washers.
PS - had washers either side of the mount effort, thought having one or two against the motor / b/h end would spread the load there a bit.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Aug 25, 2008 18:22:38 GMT
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I've survived a few Vauxhall slant 4s landing on my feet/shins/WHY but this is a bit heavier and it makes me a we bit nervy. Plus I'm getting older and have a greater sense of my own mortality... This is a step up from doing the job by rolling the motr around on the garage floor which is how I have worked in the past mostly...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Aug 25, 2008 19:40:15 GMT
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What about engine mount bolts?
I have one of the stands shown - on my various Toyota engines the engine mount bolts work perfectly for holding the engine to the stand.
Just a thought.
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Aug 25, 2008 20:03:00 GMT
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good call, thanks, they're way long and probably same size & pitch. I'll have a look.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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bbq
Part of things
(. )( .)
Posts: 485
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Aug 25, 2008 22:38:20 GMT
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Or just get yer grinder out and chop the extensions off. I've currently got a Volvo lump on a similar stand and just used coach bolts and washers.
Thinking about it, If you've got some (cylinder) head bolt washers you're not going to pull one of them through.
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2003 Suzuki Wagon R+. Feel the POWAAARRRR!!! 1968 Volvo 142. My street/strip car. Currently fubarred, it will run one day. 1971 Volvo 142. Parts car. Stripped and gone. 1993 Nissan Sunny diesel. Runs on cooking oil! [/UR
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stuey
Posted a lot
ram thruster 4000
Posts: 1,010
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Aug 25, 2008 23:18:21 GMT
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had mine (below) on a set of hardware store bolts and washers never been a prob... when I restored cars for a living we used to support the engine with a sturdy piece of wood to take the load off the bolts a little.
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Last Edit: Aug 25, 2008 23:19:14 GMT by stuey
1987 fiat 126-nearly actually done! 1972 beetle - lawn art 2003 z4 daily-new wheels a comin! 2008 R56 Mini cooper "mental Mickey"
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I hung the fav engine (still is) on one of these. I had the same problem because of short studs in the bell housing
What i did in the end was to weld nuts onto the end of the tubes. screw the arms onto the bell housing then bolt the arms to the back plate! Voila
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Aug 26, 2008 12:47:14 GMT
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I was bothered about the fact that as the tubes are quite wide diameter as well I'll need to use washers to stop the bolt heads pulling through too, meaning, that a Cadillac big block V8 will effectively be supported by 4 washers... Which makes me nervous. a mounting plate feels like the safest idea here, and ditch the arms entirely. Ahh. The one I was using is obviously a much smaller one - the cylinder head bolts couldn't possible go through the tubes unless the head of the bolt came off. Mounting plate sounds safest, loosing the tubes and using thick washers quicker. James
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