sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 16, 2010 20:25:07 GMT
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Thanks for the comments  The v8 engine and gearbox has been yo-yoing in and out over the past three days now, but I'm getting somewhere with it at last. I knew I needed to trim the towers back a little to give clearance for the exhaust, but I didn't expect I'd be going this far   The area will be fully seam welded and boxed in, and I plan to add a strengthening box in the wheelarch to make up for the missing metal, then possibly a strut brace or something similar attaching to the steering box and steering idler. I've also cut the passenger side to match, and now I have what looks like enough clearance for making a set of tubular manifolds. All this to push the engine back 2-3 inches so I can fit a bigger radiator and some pulleys for the blower  . The head on the drivers side is still catching on the clutch master cylinder mounting bracket, so I'll modify the bracket to turn the master cylinder away from the head, and I'll look at moving the whole engine and gearbox forward about 1/4-1/2 inch to relieve the tightness around the rear of the engine.   Just by chance I had a spare remote oil filter adapter with the inlet/outlet exiting to the side and front so I don't need to trim any of the front crossmember either  , although it does mean that I'm stuck with using the old style pre-serpentine front cover, unless I can modify one of my spare serpentine covers to clear   I didn't realise before, but I could mount the radiator on the guard that sits between the bumper irons and move it forwards up against the slam panel for even more clearance ;D |
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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Mar 16, 2010 22:25:31 GMT
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Nice to see this moving along.
Why is the V8 such a tight fit? Is the shell different to a V8 P6?
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 16, 2010 22:51:30 GMT
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Nice to see this moving along. Why is the V8 such a tight fit? Is the shell different to a V8 P6? It's a tight fit because I'm putting the v8 in the same position as the 2000 engine which sits further back between the towers, unlike the p6b where it sits ahead of the towers. The basic shells are almost identical, well, this shell was almost identical to my old p6b donor. It simply gives me more room at the front to do as I want, and should I get an LS1, I'll know there's more room for it to fit  |
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,961
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Mar 17, 2010 10:21:30 GMT
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Does it come out with the gearbox attatched? Remember to leave clearance to get to bellhousing bolts etc if it doesn't.
Matt
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 17, 2010 18:43:34 GMT
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Does it come out with the gearbox attatched? Remember to leave clearance to get to bellhousing bolts etc if it doesn't. Matt Yeah, the whole engine and gearbox come out as one lump. That way I can line the gearbox mounts up to get the engine located exactly where I want it quickly and easily. |
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 21, 2010 20:24:03 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 27, 2010 22:56:08 GMT
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I haven't had as much garage time as I'd hope to get recently  , but the v8 is back in place so I can start making the headers ;D I started by bolting my flanges to the heads, then by trial and error, I ground down four of the bends so that they point diagonally down where they meet the heads and tuck in underneath the heads and run close to the block. Each bend was then put in the vice, and the flange end bashed with a big hammer to square the end to match the rover v8 rectangular exhaust ports and point towards the centre to clear the chassis rail at the rear and give clearance for the engine mounts up front before being welded in place:    It is a lot more difficult doing this because the 2000 engine mounts are still in place, and sit right where the exhaust ports 5 and 6 exit the heads so I can't fully build up the headers and fit them all in one go  . I've made the decision going by the space I have to fabricate the headers in 4-2-1, and within reason keeping all the primaries similar lengths. I've ordered some more stainless 180 0 2" bends to make the secondaries so I can finish them off. The only remaining problem is the starter motor where it hits the rear tie rod mount on the drivers side. Either I need to shorten the tie rod to match the standard v8 installation, or relocate the starter lower down |
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Mar 27, 2010 23:43:24 GMT
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Looking good as usual, where did you get the tubing from out of interest, they look like a really good starting shape to fab headers from?
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Looking good as usual, where did you get the tubing from out of interest, they look like a really good starting shape to fab headers from? I can't fault the tubing and the price so I keep going back for more |
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Are these known weak points or are you just going for a belt and braces approach
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Are these known weak points or are you just going for a belt and braces approach Belts and braces ;D It is a known problem for p6's used on rough roads with heavy duty dampers for the lower damper mount to break, and the factory optional weld on brackets, although an improvement, did not fully rectify the problem, as the chassis leg is reported to twist. In the engine bay, the extra welding was done to help stop any flex in the area of the steering box and suspension mount where I've removed the original factory strengtheners. Probably just a little over engineered now |
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Apr 19, 2010 21:13:21 GMT
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rob0r
East of England
Posts: 2,743
Club RR Member Number: 104
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Apr 20, 2010 11:20:45 GMT
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Contender for car of the year surely. Will we be seeing this at RRG'10?
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E30 320i 3.5 - E23 730 - E3 3.0si - E21 316 M42 - E32 750i
ETC
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Contender for car of the year surely. Will we be seeing this at RRG'10? Depends on whether the car is finished (on the road at least ) and if I'm dragged into working, but I would love to take it round the track The 2000 engine is resting on it's mounts, ready to be bolted down tight and plumbed in so I can get it mobile again. I've got some more blue paint and have sprayed a base coat of blue onto the front valance air dam:   For a change of scenery, I've cleared out the boot, tidied it up a bit, attacked a few small patches of rust, welded up the hole in the floor, added an access hole to get to the de dion tube and diff oil fillers, enlarged the battery tray and re-sprayed it satin black to match the engine bay:       The boot needs another coat or two of paint to finish, but it's taking forever to dry now it's gone cold again  . A small plate will be screwed over the diff access hole to finish it off then once it's all dried I'll line it in carpet to finish off I've got a little work to do on the rear of the boot floor behind the valance as it still has some crash damage to sort out and the twin exhaust tailpipes don't quite clear the valance well enough, so the valance is currently being slightly re-worked to make it symmetrical  so both tailpipes fit the cut-outs the same each side |
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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I'm liking the progress!
The new front valance is really growing on me...
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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Great work |
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Loving that nose! This is looking so right now, bet you can't wait to turn wheels in anger? You keeping any Rover badges on? Think without it you may well get mistaken for a yank tank by the general public (good or bad?!). Must get off my  and fuel up my P6 and charge the battery! |
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nutter81
Part of things
I joined facebook so i could talk to the missus
Posts: 928
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ive just read this whole thing and its fapping amazing what insperation I'm having naughty thoughts about my dolly now
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. The head on the drivers side is still catching on the clutch master cylinder mounting bracket, so I'll modify the bracket to turn the master cylinder away from the head, and I'll look at moving the whole engine and gearbox forward about 1/4-1/2 inch to relieve the tightness around the rear of the engine.
, although it does mean that I'm stuck with using the old style pre-serpentine front cover, unless I can modify one of my spare serpentine covers to clear 
. It may need stripping back and respraying now.
, but the v8 is back in place so I can start making the headers ;D
. I've made the decision going by the space I have to fabricate the headers in 4-2-1, and within reason keeping all the primaries similar lengths. I've ordered some more stainless 1800 2" bends to make the secondaries so I can finish them off.
. A small plate will be screwed over the diff access hole to finish it off then once it's all dried I'll line it in carpet to finish off 
so both tailpipes fit the cut-outs the same each side 
