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I have a new set of wheels, and now I have a bee in my bonnet about all this hub-centric wheel malarkey.
So... how do you tell if your wheels are hub-centric? The new wheels aren't, but I'm not sure if stock Mercedes wheels are. The centre bore on my Benz steels is a pretty tight fit over the hub.
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what do you mean? all wheels are centric to the hub, otherwise they wouldn't go round i think you might mean if the wheels are the correct centre bore for the hub? if so then if they are a tight fit they probably are
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I took hub-centric wheels to mean that they locate tightly on the centre of the hub and take some or all of the car's weight. I think a lot of modern cars have this arrangement. If I was to fit non-hub centric wheels to a car that was designed to have them then I'd be asking the wheel bolts to perform a task they weren't designed to do.
I might be fussing about nowt ;D
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Odin
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,406
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From what I understand, modern cars use the centre spigot for location, and the weight bearing part is the friction between the wheel and the hub. The bolts/nuts obviously are condusive to that friction, the centre spigot you can do without.
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Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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The wheels on the 406 certainly locate on the central bore, but barely enough to aid fitting (pain in the on your own) and certainly wouldn't take any weight. The bolts do it all it seems.
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Stu_B
Posted a lot
Investing in rust!
Posts: 1,266
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I ran a mk1 golf with some alloys that had a larger centre bore than the hub.... they fell off which is a scary experiance! The center bore should match, it doesn't hold any of the weight but locates the wheel centrally while the bolts take the stress & hold the wheel on. Slightly off centre & your wheel will work itself loose!
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Odin
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,406
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I ran a mk1 golf with some alloys that had a larger centre bore than the hub.... they fell off which is a scary experiance! The center bore should match, it doesn't hold any of the weight but locates the wheel centrally while the bolts take the stress & hold the wheel on. Slightly off centre & your wheel will work itself loose! This shouldn't happen if you're using the correct bolts. I ran radius seat bolts on taper seat wheels briefly until I realised and this resulted in the off-centre effect you describe.
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even with taper seat bolts and wheels, the spigot ring helps to align the wheel with the hub and prevents the two moving about without you having to tighten the nuts to bggery. Whether they take the weight or not is debatable. Not to hard to buy/make suitable spigot rings.
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'88 Toyota Supra Turbo
'88 Honda VFR 400 NC24
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miaspa
Part of things
Posts: 829
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Considering when I was running Brock B2's on the Alfa, the spigot ring supllied by brock to centre the wheel was a piece of plastic I wouldn't be unduely concerned running oversized centre bore as long as your not running wobble bolts.
The Pao's has wheels with a larger centre bore and is fine, and the standard steels have a couple of mill movement until you tighten up the bolts.
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Found my flashing Pao again.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,937
Club RR Member Number: 71
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I WILL search the forum first, I WILL search the forum first, I WILL search the forum first, I WILL search the forum first, I WILL search the forum first, I WILL search the forum first, I WILL search the forum first, I WILL search the forum first, I WILL search the forum first... ;D Thanks for the replies... I got taper seats so it looks like I'll be fine.
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Do we get to know any more about these new wheels?
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Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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Although the cream wheels did rock a big one!
but change is good :-)
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Do we get to know any more about these new wheels? Coming up. I've got to get the pics off my camera... bit of an epic journey me and Street did this weekend. I'll wait for him to post up the shenanigans from Saturday first ;D
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Pretty much all spigot rings are made of plastic, but its always a good idea to use them if the centre bore is wrong. They may only be plastic, but they don't need to be hugely strong, they centre the wheel and DO help with the forces, taking some stress from the wheel bolts. All of which is described in slaters thread...
What you do if the centre bore for the wheels is smalled than the hub I've never been sure, besides using spacers...?!
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The journey of 1000 miles starts with a single coffee.
I don't like coffee!
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Odin
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,406
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They may only be plastic, but they don't need to be hugely strong, they centre the wheel and DO help with the forces, taking some stress from the wheel bolts. All of which is described in slaters thread... Really? The dominant theme in Slater's post would seem to be the following: ' Basically the point is you need location so you need either need, taper bolts, radius bolts. very good sleeve bolts or bad sleeve bolts and centre spigot location. A combination is fine BUT contrary to what a lot of people say you defiantly don’t need both for it to be ‘safe’What you do if the centre bore for the wheels is smalled than the hub I've never been sure, besides using spacers...?! Get the wheels drilled.
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^^ That's what convinced me I don't need 'em. These new wheels need taper-seat bolts, so should locate hunky-dory.
If my wheels fall off and I crash and die, I will come back and haunt Slater, however. ;D
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