Manifold back on, bodged to buy a little time.

Indeed.

Nice one Adam, i'll have to shoot over to my dads to see if he has a 1/2" ring spanner, all my stuff bar a few cheep sockets is metric.

Ball Bags. Just snapped a stud, a different one to the one with the rounded nut. So off shopping again, nut splitter and stud extractor. No idea if i'll be able to get the manifold off without removing the steering box. Who said this was going to be a quick job.

yeah, so was I. Bad luck on the snapped nut, dude ;(
I find a touch of oxy-acetelyne workes wonders on stuck manifold nuts.

Oh, and copperslip is/was a trademark for copper grease, so synonyms.

At the weekend we found prayer worked We were removing the downpipe from a honda prelude, and 5 of the 6 nuts/studs did NOT want to move, we were gradually rounding them off, I found the best thing, after prayer, was to use single hex sockets, but obviously you can't get a socket in there, so not ring spanners, because they'll slip, being the equivalent of double hex, and that results in half the amount it can spin before gripping, if you know what I mean.

Some GT85 or similar? And heat it a little.

Well I prayed. For the nut to come undone, and for the rain to hold off. Perhaps i should have just prayed for one thing, it appears that whichever god it was that i got through to thought that two things was greedy and granted neither.

Nice link Jonny, entertaining and informative, you posted that on here too, i remeber the bit obout turning the bush to center the drill bit, like the lengthened bit too clever stuff.

I'm hoping that there will be enough thread still showing on the broken stud to wind another nut onto and then possibly weld in place. Which means doing the round trip to school to borrow the mig, and hoping my near non existant welding skills are up to the task.

The rounded nut is now even more mangled, but still stuck fast. The nut splitter i bought broke, and the best strike that i can give a cold chisel is a tap, because there is nowhere to swing the hammer.

here's some more pictures.



Imagine getting to the nut under the manifold for number 4 cylinder.

Here's another exciting view, what i can see from under the car.



It would all be ok, well a little bit more ok if i had three elbows on my right arm.

I'll have to go to my dads tomorow and get my blow torch, but i'm not sure if that'll be hot enough anyway, or even how i'll get something on the nut to turn it even if the heat free's it a bit. There's not a chance of getting a grinder in there to remove the remaining nut. I might try tomorrow with my dremmel type tool to see if i can grind away the nut.

Got any other ideas?

Dremel type effort with a flexible drive and cutting disk?

Dremel extension with a tungsten carbide cutting bit on it should do it

cut the manifold up into bits and fit another one afterwards, makes it mucho easier to get at stuck nuts and snapped studs and sometimes the vibrations loosen up nuts anyway, usually works out quicker in the end.

I normally thread lock them in for what it's worth. Two nuts on the end tightened together and tighten it in good and tight.

When I was looking at getting my broken stud out from the comments from other people the thing that seems to help the most is heat because it breaks the corrosion between the two part. Tapping it does a similar job. When you weld the nut on make sure the stub of old stud is good and clean if you can get to it and it may take 5-6 attempts apparently. Looks like other guys use a selection of different sized nuts welded in different places before they get the right one. I've never had to resort to this method luckily but it looks like it normally works