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Nov 14, 2007 20:29:00 GMT
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Well i couldn't think of a snappy heading  anyway, first post in this section, how slack am I? best not answer that..... story: when I was younger I used to lust after the high end r/c touring cars and I simply copuldn't afford one. the lad next door had an original (ta-01?) bmw m3 tamyia kit and i was uber jealous. fast forward a few years and I was just browsing ebay earlier this year and I found the re-issue of the e30 m3 on the tt-01 chassis. mostly goaferboy's fault i was browsing, he'd posted links to rc drifting vids. the tt-01 was super cheap direct from hong kong, and I was drooling over the adjustable cnc ally bits you can get for these. totting it up they could come in at a small fortune, so i elected to keep the tt-01 stock. whilst browsing ebay for race type r/c's, I spied a corally c4 chassis. unfortunatly the lower carbon deck was cracked, but i found a new lower deck chassis on ebay for £ not a lot, so i thought if i couldn't repair it i could get a new chassis. old chassis was pretty farked, so I ordered up a new 'un and rebuilt the old running gear into it. the car has been a full on 1/10 learning curve, I never knew the parts vary so much! I found that it needed offset wheels as 0 offsets catch the wishbone adjusters. I got some +2 tamyia mesh's and some german road tyres. at the mo its got a 23t tamyia tz super stock motor in it, an m-troniks eco 20 ESC and futaba 2pl radio gear. the geometry needs a serious sort out. it had about 20 degrees of toe in  I've returned the steering arms to book spec length, but its still in and I reckon it wants .5 degrees toe out. the rear toe in is different side to side! and has positive castor. good job this thing is almost infinitly adjustable for camber,castor, kpi etc. etc.  basically its mocked up at the moment, it came with only the spur gear and I didn't know there are different pitches, so ordered a corally 64 pitch pinion hoping it would match. it didn't mesh with the current spur gear  so i ordered a 64 pitch spur. which is too small to get the motor to mesh as it hits the centre diff before it engages  anyone need a new 64 pitch 22t pinion and 104 spur gear set?! borrowed the pinion of my tt-01 and its the right pitch. anyone know what pitch tt-01's run?  ? took it for a quick trial tonight and it would appear it will be quick, but the diff's spin like slipper clutches!!!! which I assume to be not right needing a retro body for it now, I was eyeing up a lancia 037 body but missed it. an m3 body would rock but they go for fortunes! thought about a subaru brat body but I don't know what dimensions they are. i need a tt-01 body size- about 265mm wheelbase by 190mm. I'll see what comes up heres some pics in its current state-    I'll keep on tinkering with it, keeps my hands busy anyway  if i get much more sorrted I'll post some more in here  and if anyone can answer the few Q's I have it would be much appreciated |
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Nov 15, 2007 11:51:42 GMT
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Sorry don't have a clue about the suspension setting, i know that the rear is meant to have toe in,(it is the rear you are taking about?)
You have to find a 2002 body ;D
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Nov 15, 2007 13:06:14 GMT
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You have to find a 2002 body ;D Here here (don't know where you'll find one though ) With the pace of development in the field of R/C racing cars the old C4 is almost retro now - I think it was Corally's first 1/10 tourer (back in 99/2000 I think) It was certainly robust & used Serpent suspension components from their Impact I.C car - yours looks like the chassis is made from Coral - a material thats probably as good as Carbon Fibre but not as fashionable & from which Corally got their name. I've just got myself their latest RDX PHi to replace my ageing RCLab (which is now probably as old as your C4) Sounds like your diffs are slipping - do you have the instruction manual to show/tell you how to do this? You should adjust them so that you can just about turn one of the wheels (attached to the diff you are testing) Whilst holding still the other 3 wheels - without the belts jumping. I guess you are using your car for fun on the street? - as such i'd run about 1deg negative camber all round, about 6-7mm ground clearance (less if you were racing) About 2deg toe-in each side at the rear & either parallel or a smidge of toe out in the front (The front wheels being driven, will want to pull in under power) I'd also run slightly thicker oil & stiffer springs on the front compared to the rear. Also are you running it with the reciever wire wound up like that? I would invest in a tube to run it vertical otherwise you would be very prone to interferance & limited range |
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Garry
East Midlands
Posts: 1,722
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Nov 15, 2007 14:33:48 GMT
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Ewww, 2 Corally owners....but there's gotta be some around I guess... And before you moan, yes, I've had a Corally (SP12M), and it was quick, but those stupid body mounts are a pain in the backside, and quite fraglle. Tamiya pinions and spur gears are all 0.6 module, close to 48dp but not quite. if you run them together they'll strip after about 20mins of running. As far as I know, no-one does a 2002 in a 1/10th touring car size. Plenty of other retro-fodder out there though. Any more Q's, I'm sure Dan or me can help. |
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Last Edit: Nov 15, 2007 15:09:09 GMT by Garry
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Nov 15, 2007 17:30:27 GMT
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Probably ball clutches and they do slip. You have to tighten them up until the slip stops. You can dial in a bit of slip to prevent wheelspin, it was one of the big things to do back in the day.
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Nov 15, 2007 20:03:13 GMT
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- yours looks like the chassis is made from Coral - a material thats probably as good as Carbon Fibre but not as fashionable & from which Corally got their name. cool, I assumed it was carbon as it you could see the layers of the laminate split open in the crashed lower deck. I'd hazard a geuss it crashed because of the complete nonsense geometry the previous owner set it up with. Sounds like your diffs are slipping - do you have the instruction manual to show/tell you how to do this? You should adjust them so that you can just about turn one of the wheels (attached to the diff you are testing) Whilst holding still the other 3 wheels - without the belts jumping. cheers I thought they were slipping but its my first ball diff equiped car so I wasn't sure. I got a manual with the car when I got it hopefully it'll help. - I guess you are using your car for fun on the street? - as such i'd run about 1deg negative camber all round, about 6-7mm ground clearance (less if you were racing) About 2deg toe-in each side at the rear & either parallel or a smidge of toe out in the front (The front wheels being driven, will want to pull in under power) I'd also run slightly thicker oil & stiffer springs on the front compared to the rear. thats awesome, thanks dude! yeah, its for tarmac fun are there gauges for suspension set up? or should i get my engineer set out and measure it the hard way the rear has toe in but the o/s/r has about 3 degrees more than the n/s/r and the o/s/r has more camber then the other: stupidly, both positive!! It requires a load of set-up, but its quite fun learning! Also are you running it with the reciever wire wound up like that? I would invest in a tube to run it vertical otherwise you would be very prone to interferance & limited range its only a mock up to see if it even moved. current reception range is about 10 yards ;D nothing is held in place only the ESC because the wires want to locate it about 1" outside the chassis see-  the reciever is floating merrily in the breeze as are the batteries.  this is the pinion/spur setup, looks like it meshes ok to me, but i'm never sure. its the spur the car came with and I don't know what pitch it is. what do the educated ones think? alternatively what sort of pitch should I be looking for as a pinion/spur set? 64 is way too small as ther motor reaches the end of its adustment (ie. it touches the centre diff!) before they engage. hell i'm used tamyia vintage stuff, not complicated stuff! ;D  you can sprt of see the difference here between the currnet pitch and the 64 pitch. thanks for the advixce guys its really helped and yeah i'd love a 2002 body but already resigned myself to a no. escort woud be nice, somebodiesuk on ebay used to shift 190mm lexan mk1 escort bodies on ebay but have since ceased trading I got a 1/12 capri shell for my mardave from them a year ago. might look into what size brat bodies are, a subaru brat would be soo cool on a touring chassis ;D spotted a gr5 celica on ebay from hongkong last week too... |
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markbognor
South East
 
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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corally c4 R/C carmarkbognor
@markbognor
Club Retro Rides Member 56
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Nov 15, 2007 21:45:24 GMT
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There's a german firm that do mantas and quattro's in 1/10 but i cant remember what they are called
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Garry
East Midlands
Posts: 1,722
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Nov 15, 2007 23:16:53 GMT
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Thats Carson with the Manta's etc.  Even a 2CV.  |
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Nov 16, 2007 10:29:36 GMT
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I need a 2CV shell! ;D Bodieanddoyle, looks like you have an example of all the different pitch gears available there  The Spur fitted to the car looks like its 48dp - the pinion fitted looks like like a Tamyia? - maybe 32dp? Have a look in the manual to see what the internal ratio is of the drive train (Spur to wheels) & if you could tell me this along with the number of teeth on your 48 pitch kit spur & motor wind (i'm guessing its a 27t single stock?) I should be able to tell you approx' what pinion you need Also I wouldn't bother running that seperate battery pack - thats for i.c stuff, with your electronic speed controller you should be getting a supply for the radio gear from the main 7.2v battery? Any battery power you save from the main pack is wasted carrying the extra weight of the 2nd pack. There are some dedicated guages with which to measure your car's set-up - some of which are very elaborate & hence expensive, i've seen digital corner weights & laser measuring beams  I've raced at National level (admittedly with limited success) & only ever used an 'RPM' camber guage (a glorified protractor) a steel rule (to check rear toe) & a set of drill bits to set the ride height - oh & a flat board to sit the car on For what you'll be using the car for i'm sure 100% accuracy isn't paramount. Edit; stick you radio gear down with 3M VHB double sided foam tape - its the kiddy  |
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Last Edit: Nov 16, 2007 10:31:48 GMT by DerbyDan
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Nov 18, 2007 16:30:12 GMT
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thanks sooo much for the advice dan- its reallly appreciated the car has a 23t tamyia tz motor. it should have a 22t pinion and 90t spur, its the pitch thing thats confusing me. I think I'll have to hit the model shop and the reciever seems to need the BEC battery, I think i got an IC setup, but meh- it was very cheap and its just for fun ;D here- have a choice of retro shells on ebay-  lancia 037 body  toyota 2000gt  rx3  group 5 celica!! they seem to be on every week so far. all from the same seller in japan. all tamyia 190 size shells. clicky here and you should find all the items |
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Nov 19, 2007 13:49:04 GMT
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Get the grp5 celica then add some tasteful bozo mods!
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,626
Club RR Member Number: 1
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corally c4 R/C carNathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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Nov 21, 2007 13:16:31 GMT
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
After reading this and another thread, I have to own a TA-01 Escort Pilot WHY WHY.
Looks sweet though matey.
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Jan 15, 2008 14:12:37 GMT
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Ha ha - for comparison to your C4, which I believe was Corally's first foray into 1/10 touring cars, this is my Corally RDX 'PHi' which is thier latest design, I must admit the instructions are now very good - especially the set-up info at the back Naked without radio gear    And with a mates old Octavia shell - but one that I sprayed up (until I get round to doing a new one for myself)  First time out last week & went well in practice but crashed on the 2nd lap of the 1st race & broke the front hub - & I didn't have any spares |
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Jan 22, 2008 19:24:30 GMT
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dan, that corally chassis looks super slinky front belt and drive sprocket/diff housing look not a million miles from my ol' c4. I have done the geometry and adjusted the diffs, but the diffs still slip a bit. I would adjust them up a bit more, but its such a PITA to do as the whole thing needs to be stripped. I can confirm that it goes like stink. compared to a tamyia anyway |
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gearoil
Part of things
Projectless...
Posts: 918
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Jan 23, 2008 18:31:09 GMT
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I'm TRYING TO AVOID BUYING one of those TT-01 M3's at the moment. ;D
But should I do, I'd be spraying it up in Jagermeister livery.
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2008 21:07:08 GMT by gearoil
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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corally c4 R/C carmarkbognor
@markbognor
Club Retro Rides Member 56
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Jan 24, 2008 12:48:33 GMT
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I Spy a Picco Z. Cant get much more fun for £20ish pounds |
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Jan 28, 2008 17:02:02 GMT
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I Spy a Picco Z. Cant get much more fun for £20ish pounds Your not wrong there ;D I think Evo magazine summed them up perfectly - easy enough for everone to have a go, but challenging enough to keep you entertained. I've had hour of fun out of mine... it was £29 from Hawkins Bazaar - but i've spied them in Tescos since for £20 B&D - the ball Diffs are very hard to adjust so they don't slip at all..... i'm only running a 'stock' 27turn motor & it slips the differential a bit - but once you are off & running its OK |
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anyway, first post in this section, how slack am I? best not answer that.....
I've returned the steering arms to book spec length, but its still in and I reckon it wants .5 degrees toe out. the rear toe in is different side to side! and has positive castor. good job this thing is almost infinitly adjustable for camber,castor, kpi etc. etc. 
so i ordered a 64 pitch spur. which is too small to get the motor to mesh as it hits the centre diff before it engages 
anyone need a new 64 pitch 22t pinion and 104 spur gear set?!
?
if i get much more sorrted I'll post some more in here 
The Spur fitted to the car looks like its 48dp - the pinion fitted looks like like a Tamyia? - maybe 32dp? Have a look in the manual to see what the internal ratio is of the drive train (Spur to wheels) & if you could tell me this along with the number of teeth on your 48 pitch kit spur & motor wind (i'm guessing its a 27t single stock?) I should be able to tell you approx' what pinion you need 
I've raced at National level (admittedly with limited success) & only ever used an 'RPM' camber guage (a glorified protractor) a steel rule (to check rear toe) & a set of drill bits to set the ride height - oh & a flat board to sit the car on 
