Hell YEAH you can.... 
Ok,
1) Take the four torx/allen/screw heads out of the top of the LDA of your pump and rotate the boost aneriod. (Simple really..):
The LDA is just the circular 'hat' part of the pump with the hose attactched from the intercooler, the highest part of the pump if you like. When you remove the hat you will see a rubber diaphragm with a metal plate and a 10mm nut in the middle. Notice the orientation of the small metal dimple on the metal plate. Pull the whole assembly upwards by holding onto the diaphragm rubber. Now once its out you will see a conical shaped metal 'aneroid' attacthed to the bottom of the diaphragm. You can also see if you look closely that the aneroid is offest to one side. You can see where your boost curve has been tracing a line up and down the cone if you look closely. You want to reinstall the aneroid so that the part of the aneroid which allows most movement of the fuel pin is facing it (the line drawn on the aneroid was made by the pin which you may just be able to see at the bottom of the LDA enclosure). Install it like this:
Whilst you are in the LDA, you can also take out the big spring and turn the star screw in half a turn. Just grab the big cog looking thing under the spring betwen thumb and forefinger and rotate it through 180 degrees clockwise. It will click. This also has a dimple mark on it so also take note of standard settings.
All done, reinstall the spring aneroid and cap, making sure the plastic washer is still around the aneroid.
Take it for a drive!! You will have fuel that comes in sooner with boost, and more fuel when it does. Its good now isnt it? Just wait...
2) The BIG difference.
At the base of the LDA at the back of the pump is the main fuel screw that runs parallel to the pump axis. It is above the four injection lines on the pump. It has a flathead screwdriver and 7mm nut end. It has 13mm locknut at the base. There is locking collar fitted around it and it probably has a blob of yllow paint on it. You need to turn this screw, it's up to you how you remove the locking collar, completely, or just loosen it, makes no difference. Use a slim screwdriver to get it off.
So again, take note of the standard position of the screw. Take off the locking collar. Loosen off the 13mm nut whilst holding the screw with either the 7mm or flathead so that the screw doesnt turn. When the 13mm is loose, turn the main fuel screw in about 90 degrees. Hold it steady again and tighten up the locknut again.
Take it for a drive!! If you want more, then repeat the above procedure with another 90 degrees. You will get some smoke eventually but its up to you how much is acceptable. Too much is bad for the turbo though. By too much I mean tyre fire. Plumes of black. A little haze is good on full power. Get someone to drive behind to check as you cant see how bad it is in the mirror.
ANY BETTER NOW?!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Of course becase you made note of the standard positions of everything you can always return it to exactly how it was if you ever want to.
Total tuning cost = curse word all!
So the next thing to do is bump up the boost, for which you just need to install any old bleed valve although I reccomend a grainger type one. Schnaffle one off the bay for a coupla quid!
Good luck, you wont be disappointed!
Ok,
1) Take the four torx/allen/screw heads out of the top of the LDA of your pump and rotate the boost aneriod. (Simple really..):
The LDA is just the circular 'hat' part of the pump with the hose attactched from the intercooler, the highest part of the pump if you like. When you remove the hat you will see a rubber diaphragm with a metal plate and a 10mm nut in the middle. Notice the orientation of the small metal dimple on the metal plate. Pull the whole assembly upwards by holding onto the diaphragm rubber. Now once its out you will see a conical shaped metal 'aneroid' attacthed to the bottom of the diaphragm. You can also see if you look closely that the aneroid is offest to one side. You can see where your boost curve has been tracing a line up and down the cone if you look closely. You want to reinstall the aneroid so that the part of the aneroid which allows most movement of the fuel pin is facing it (the line drawn on the aneroid was made by the pin which you may just be able to see at the bottom of the LDA enclosure). Install it like this:
Whilst you are in the LDA, you can also take out the big spring and turn the star screw in half a turn. Just grab the big cog looking thing under the spring betwen thumb and forefinger and rotate it through 180 degrees clockwise. It will click. This also has a dimple mark on it so also take note of standard settings.
All done, reinstall the spring aneroid and cap, making sure the plastic washer is still around the aneroid.
Take it for a drive!! You will have fuel that comes in sooner with boost, and more fuel when it does. Its good now isnt it? Just wait...
2) The BIG difference.
At the base of the LDA at the back of the pump is the main fuel screw that runs parallel to the pump axis. It is above the four injection lines on the pump. It has a flathead screwdriver and 7mm nut end. It has 13mm locknut at the base. There is locking collar fitted around it and it probably has a blob of yllow paint on it. You need to turn this screw, it's up to you how you remove the locking collar, completely, or just loosen it, makes no difference. Use a slim screwdriver to get it off.
So again, take note of the standard position of the screw. Take off the locking collar. Loosen off the 13mm nut whilst holding the screw with either the 7mm or flathead so that the screw doesnt turn. When the 13mm is loose, turn the main fuel screw in about 90 degrees. Hold it steady again and tighten up the locknut again.
Take it for a drive!! If you want more, then repeat the above procedure with another 90 degrees. You will get some smoke eventually but its up to you how much is acceptable. Too much is bad for the turbo though. By too much I mean tyre fire. Plumes of black. A little haze is good on full power. Get someone to drive behind to check as you cant see how bad it is in the mirror.
ANY BETTER NOW?!!!
;D ;D ;D ;D ;DOf course becase you made note of the standard positions of everything you can always return it to exactly how it was if you ever want to.
Total tuning cost = curse word all!
So the next thing to do is bump up the boost, for which you just need to install any old bleed valve although I reccomend a grainger type one. Schnaffle one off the bay for a coupla quid!
Good luck, you wont be disappointed!
