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May 20, 2016 20:36:33 GMT
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correct, my glass does not have the little E 43R marks on it ( even though it is that spec). It will get through the test but it seems a long way off at the moment. Work-around in my side of the world is to not have any side or rear glass on the car when submitted for testing. The front windscreen does have to be in place with the proper credentials, but who is to say your individual vehicle was designed to have side windows if they are not there for the test? Mostly you would do this if you plan on running plexy on the side and rear windows of the finished vehicle that would not pass our safety inspection. |
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May 20, 2016 21:50:26 GMT
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That used to be the case over here but everyone left the glass out, so they closed that loophole.
If there is a window lip it has to have glass fitted.
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May 20, 2016 21:58:47 GMT
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The glass issue is really bugging me atmo. I can get a new front screen but all new glass, is a joke! Especially when specs arethe same Paul, it's not impossible there are some ways around it. |
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May 20, 2016 22:00:53 GMT
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Aren't the emarks just screen printed on?
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May 20, 2016 22:19:36 GMT
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No, they have to be part of the baking process and have to be enamelled into the glass. Even from Pilkingtons I need the receipt to specifically state that this process has been adhered to.
Glass is THE big sticking point on older cars, everything else is achievable with careful thought.
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May 20, 2016 22:36:01 GMT
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The glass issue is really bugging me atmo. I can get a new front screen but all new glass, is a joke! Especially when specs arethe same Paul, it's not impossible there are some ways around it. Been talking to a company that are having a set made in poly with e marks on a rent out basis if you get my drift |
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May 20, 2016 22:38:39 GMT
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PM sent Paul.
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May 29, 2016 21:45:56 GMT
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A small non Biva update update, I decided to get rid of the Kenlowe adjustable thermostat as I have found a double temp switch -88/83 and 92/87 degrees. I rewired my electric fan (as its a 2 speed fan) to use the low speed again and with a couple of relays wired in series I now have a fan that kicks in at 88-83 on low and 92-87 on high speed. Might need to go for a higher temp dual switch later on but I'll see how this works out. Kenlowe one was set for 93/88 so the high speed is pretty spot on, might be overkill on the low speed but I can pull the fuse on the relay to effectively switch the low speed off if it's too much. Might make a cover to hide the relays as well.  |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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May 29, 2016 22:20:20 GMT
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The way my glass cutter gets around the need for glass to be marked for certain applications is to cut the glass from brand new Land Rover defender screens, making sure they incorporate the factory Mark into it.
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May 30, 2016 12:30:30 GMT
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I may well do that for the rear window Dez, possibly also the rear sides as well but as the landy screens are laminated they are no good for the doors as laminated often cracks with side loads on it. Rear sides are stressed a bit when fitted so laminated might not be a good idea for those either.
How much do you get landy screens from and how much do you pay for the cutting down? Do you get many that break when cutting?
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May 30, 2016 14:58:02 GMT
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I needed to cut down a curved laminated windscreen years ago. No one would touch it. In the end I masked it up with vinyl tape and sandblasted it down to the laminating plastic. Did the same from the other side. Then cut the laminating plastic with a Stanley knife. Bit of a polish on the edges. Job done ....
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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May 30, 2016 16:02:06 GMT
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E marked Lexan polycarb for side and rear screens is lots, lots cheaper than glass. these people make it to measure. |
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May 30, 2016 17:17:44 GMT
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Mark
The guy I use up here fitted glass in to my dad's model a surround for me it was cut from a wagon screen he got the mark in the corner and all that good stuff it was £140 fitted I would think that would be a bit hard to swallow if you need 6 for the pop
You could get a few out of one wagon screen but them fekin marks there's only one one each screen
It's a stupid rule
Can I ask why do you need a biva test you were on the road what happened?
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Caravans are cool
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May 30, 2016 21:16:43 GMT
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DVLA took my reg away - so BIVA is the only way to be able to ever drive it again.
Yep, glass is curse word expensive whatever route you go down. My screen is ok, its the side & rear glass that don't have the markings.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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May 30, 2016 21:28:01 GMT
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I've never actually needed to have one with the mark done myself, it was a conversation we were having whilst he was cutting mine about glass for BIVA cars. Obviously being the type of place they are they get a fair bit of that kind of work. Iirc it was under 100 a screen, I think he did mention doing smaller bits out of other bits of landy glass, rear screen etc. as he said he could get Amber tint and SunDim blue as well.
I've got laminated glass with a ground edge in the doors on a couple of cars, and I raised a similar concern with him. He said lots of people have mentioned it, and it theory it could happen, but in practice he's only ever had a couple break in the 15+ years he's been doing it, and there were underlying poor fit reasons for both of them. As I was only paying 20 quid a bit for unmarked glass, it was a risk I was willing to take, and they've been fine.
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Tow hook is now finished apart from needing another coat of paint. Unfortunately the steel plate for the electric hook up will fail - sharp edges again :shake: Note the plastic nut cover fitted on one of the bolts - another requirement.  As you can see in this photo. I will make an ally plate in 5mm thick so I can radius all the edges properly.  The idea is to hide the hook inside this parachute pack, but this probably won't work as it will be far too low to look right   |
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Good progress today, I drilled out the plate that Wayne cut for me and welded the fuel filler neck into it. Luckily I had a large flange bolt in filler so an easy modification (original on right in picture)  With the new bootlid taped into place - not flatted or polished yet! - needs more paint as well.  Lamp & number plate mount fitted,  Number plate hinges up to get to the filler, it will need a box welded to the filler neck with a flange around it to seal against the inner bootlid face.  And with it all fitted to the car - much easier job that I expected!  Number plate hinges down when boot open - not sure if this is a legal requirement or not.  |
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Don't think the hinged number plate is a requirement,later range rover ones aren't on hinges.
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richrolls
Part of things
Posts: 318
Club RR Member Number: 38
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Cutting glass. Haven't tried it myself but: will it go with a diamond encrusted blade (ceramic tiles) in an angle grinder? Obviously nice and gentile, full breathing protection. eye protection. (outside with a hose on the cut)
I have put a kitcar through an SVA so I understand the pain and for fudge sakes why? on a lot of stuff. But I have found the testers very helpful and understanding when handled "gigitey" correctly.
Work with them and I know you'll get there. The World! deserves to see this motor on the road. It deserves to be on the road.
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Thanks Rich, Not worth cutting myself when proper glaziers will do it for you.
I'm leaning towards getting Landy screens for the rear and rear sides with 'proper' made glass for the doors. I need to check with Windsor glass to see if they are still offering the cutting service.
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