Rob
Posted a lot
You know, for kids!
Posts: 2,515
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So... is there anything that isn't adjustable 39 directions on this car? I bet the bumper pitch can be adjusted ? Amazing... I'm so jealous... Lovely looking car to start with but with RV8 power it's gotta be a winner !  Rob |
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Jan 21, 2008 22:43:55 GMT
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Quick update. Some shiny bits have arrived from Oz today....  ....a strut brace and an adjustable Panhard rod Ordered on the 16th, arrived 9.00am today - not bad And here's some trial fit pics :    Machined alloy strut brace, very pleased with the quality. Had to ditch my Pro-Flow air filter and drop on my very low Edelbrock pancake filter. Eventually I want to make up a cold air intake for the carb, but this will be OK for now.  Adjustable panhard. Again very nice bit of kit. I had modified my original rod to be adjustable, but had underestimated how adjustable it needs to be when running this low. As I needed to order the front strut brace, thought I'd get one of these sent over as well. This rod is cranked - which keeps it more level. Both parts are from www.sleekaspares.com.auHappy to recommend, as the service and parts are both excellent. In other news.... I had a few problems with my diff setup, so I went in search of another one to rebuild. By a stroke of luck I've bagged myself a RA40GT rear axle. A very rare piece of kit as it runs the F series diff (7.5" LSD) compared to the usual Celica T series diff (6.7"). Also has a 3.9 ratio which will sit happier behind the V8. I'll leave my current diff in their 'til I grenade it and then just swap this in, after I've rebuilt and detailed it at my leisure. Here's a pic of the drive shaft difference between a T and and F diff:  These F series diff have sat behind some big horsepower motors over in Oz, so should be OK  Just read of one that's quite happy after 2 years behind a 2JZ-GTE running 18psi boost  |
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2020 10:35:38 GMT by celicaV8
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superb bit of work ,hats off to you mate your a genius.. |
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Last Edit: Jan 22, 2008 9:17:46 GMT by hansgti
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Feb 16, 2008 18:41:14 GMT
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Quick update. Seemed to spend a lot of hours recently sorting out bits I'd already fitted.... The rear arches came off again as I was never 100% happy with the fit of these. Also took the opportunity to remove some material from the arch lips to give the tyres a bit more clearance. All repainted and refitted now. The new clutch master cylinder had developed some surface rust from all the damp weather recently. This is a real pain to get off, but it had to been done. All painted up and replaced. The damp weather had also got to my new steering tie rods - so off these came to have some POR-15 slapped on them. Not sure why I never painted all this bare steel before I put it on  Filled the new brake system up for the first time. Only had one minor leak on a union to sort. Yay my car stops and steers  Just got to make it go now. Biggest headache this month has been the cooling and alternator.... The outlet from the water pump is incredibly close to the alternator. Not sure what the standard Rover SD1 outlet hose looks like, but it must have a very tight pre-formed bend to clear the alternator.  I can't use the SD1 hose as 1. I don't have it and 2. the chances of the other end mating to my alloy rad are pretty slim. So generic hoses it is. Problem is the bend radius on these hoses is cr@p. The standard alternator position is fairly lame anyway and seems to sits very high and in the way of just about everything. I know I'll move the alternator then A quick rummage through my scrap boxes (never throw anything away) and I'd found some suitable bits of steel to weld together:   ....this bracket then let me do this:    ....so now I can fit my bottom hose:  TBH all the measuring, checking, aligning, finding smaller fan belts, rewiring etc was a right pain, but worth it I think. In other news, I've finally picked up my RA40 GT rear axle  3.9 final drive - check. 7.5" F series LSD - check. Handles massive amount more power than my current axle - check. Bolts straight in (apart from my coil over mod) - check. Apart from the obvious 30 years of surface rust it's superb. The back plates are all solid (usually rotted away) and the F series LSD is still nice and tight. Just need to make this look like the one currently under the car. |
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2020 10:40:36 GMT by celicaV8
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,449
Club RR Member Number: 48
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1981 - Celica TA40 V8The Doctor
@thedoctor
Club Retro Rides Member 48
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Feb 16, 2008 19:55:03 GMT
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is the RA40GT axle an F series?
I thought only the MA46 Supra had that rear axle, but if it is, it means good news to a lot of people ;D
Great job!
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Feb 16, 2008 20:12:16 GMT
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Again.... you are a legend man, what a load of work and thinking you have put in here, as well as getting it just right, I have done a job like that once before on my '63 Beetle.
Look forward to the first drive.
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Feb 16, 2008 20:21:56 GMT
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no idea why ive only just stumbled across this build but so glad i finally have.
ive only seen this level of craftmanship on tv, BOOKMARKED!!!
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Feb 16, 2008 21:48:12 GMT
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Cheers guys ;D Really do appreciate the feedback. Yep it's definitely a F series. The only Celica's to get the F series (that all my research shows anyway) were the RA4*GT and RA2*/3*GT. As you say the Mk1 Supra had a live axle F series as well (and discs as well which the Celica never got). As you probably know the F series diff really refers to the actual differential itself, not the complete axle. The F centre was used and still is used in many IRS Toyota rear ends. Here's the Celica rear axle info I have: T - TA1#,4#,RA40A,46A T LSD - TA40A,41A,42A,46A,47A..SR,GT F - RA40A,45A..GT F LSD - RA40A,45A..GT T - TA2#,RA2# F - RA2#..P51 F LSD - RA2#..P51 T - RA2# F - RA2#,35..P51 T - RA2#,35..4F F - RA35 LB..GT,GTV T - RA35..4F A quick visual way to spot a F series 40GT axle is a vertical strengthing rib on the differntial housing that isn't there on a T series. You can see it in this pic: Axle at front of pic is TA40 T series. Axle at back of pic is a F series out of a Corona Mk2 - but the centre is the same as RA40GT (see my axle pic above) I think the extra rib is quite obvious.   HTH |
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2020 10:41:42 GMT by celicaV8
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Anglia68
Posted a lot
Powered By Boredom.
Posts: 2,050
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Feb 16, 2008 22:03:44 GMT
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Another quality build and some great bracket making skills you have there.Nice one.
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street
Posted a lot
6.2 ft/lbs of talk
Posts: 4,662
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Feb 16, 2008 22:18:21 GMT
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Such neat and clever engineering, big fan of this car!  |
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Just spent the last 30 minutes catching up on here. How do i keep missing these?
Fantastic build mate, like your attention to detail. ;D
Looking forward to seeing it at RR08?
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,976
Club RR Member Number: 71
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1981 - Celica TA40 V8bstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Just spent the last 30 minutes catching up on here. How do I keep missing these? I think we all miss them - so many great threads to keep up with |
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,449
Club RR Member Number: 48
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1981 - Celica TA40 V8The Doctor
@thedoctor
Club Retro Rides Member 48
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Yep it's definitely a F series. The only Celica's to get the F series (that all my research shows anyway) were the RA4*GT and RA2*/3*GT. As you say the Mk1 Supra had a live axle F series as well (and discs as well which the Celica never got). As you probably know the F series diff really refers to the actual differential itself, not the complete axle. The F centre was used and still is used in many IRS Toyota rear ends. Here's the Celica rear axle info I have: T - TA1#,4#,RA40A,46A T LSD - TA40A,41A,42A,46A,47A..SR,GT F - RA40A,45A..GT F LSD - RA40A,45A..GT T - TA2#,RA2# F - RA2#..P51 F LSD - RA2#..P51 T - RA2# F - RA2#,35..P51 T - RA2#,35..4F F - RA35 LB..GT,GTV T - RA35..4F A quick visual way to spot a F series 40GT axle is a vertical strengthing rib on the differntial housing that isn't there on a T series. I know about the diffcodes, but I keep calling them axles  Thanks for the explaination, never knew that! I believe that the Celica *A6* (except for the 2T-B version) also got the F series diff in IRS rear axle, Celica ST had the T series diff in a live axle. |
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pomra23
Part of things
18rc power
Posts: 26
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Love it mate really is a joy to look at. Ive always fancied the v8 but just couldnt afford the fuel or insurance  |
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Only talk the talk if your walking the walk.  |
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
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Feb 20, 2008 11:22:50 GMT
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Cheers guys ;D Really do appreciate the feedback. Yep it's definitely a F series. The only Celica's to get the F series (that all my research shows anyway) were the RA4*GT and RA2*/3*GT. As you say the Mk1 Supra had a live axle F series as well (and discs as well which the Celica never got). As you probably know the F series diff really refers to the actual differential itself, not the complete axle. The F centre was used and still is used in many IRS Toyota rear ends. Here's the Celica rear axle info I have: T - TA1#,4#,RA40A,46A T LSD - TA40A,41A,42A,46A,47A..SR,GT F - RA40A,45A..GT F LSD - RA40A,45A..GT T - TA2#,RA2# F - RA2#..P51 F LSD - RA2#..P51 T - RA2# F - RA2#,35..P51 T - RA2#,35..4F F - RA35 LB..GT,GTV T - RA35..4F A quick visual way to spot a F series 40GT axle is a vertical strengthing rib on the differntial housing that isn't there on a T series. You can see it in this pic: Axle at front of pic is TA40 T series. Axle at back of pic is a F series out of a Corona Mk2 - but the centre is the same as RA40GT (see my axle pic above) I think the extra rib is quite obvious.   HTH Nice build fella, The bit about diffs is interesting, I have a Celica LSD, 3.7cwp in the back of my Cortina, and it has had massive amounts of abuse, not sure what it is as it was rescued from the back of my mates garage, destined to be fitted to a Morris minor, All he remembers are the words"Celica ST" it does not have the extra rib, and checking, my Shafts ate 31mm on the unsplined forging and 28mm on the splines, does this make it the later, stronger diff, funny thing, I binned the Rover Gbox and fitted a Supra3.0 non Turbo box, ain't broke that yet either, I also narrowed the the axle 2" hoping I could get away with lopping the ends off the shafts and sliding further onto the splines, just not enough spline, so I ended up with getting a set of Moser shafts made Via Hausers, just a point of interest, the shaft bearings are the same as 8" ford bearings. Ian |
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Last Edit: Feb 20, 2008 11:34:38 GMT by v8ian
Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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Feb 20, 2008 21:30:22 GMT
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CelicaV8, you have inspired me to continue with my dream (pic below) of a V8 in my Mk1 Celica. Your photo diary (and skilz of course) deserves all the commendation. Loving your rear end pics too. (And V8ian, I'm curious about your mating of rover V8 with Supra box: clutch, bellhousing etc.  )  Keep up the amazing work. Thanks for showing us all. Al |
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1976 Suzuki GT550 Celica RA28...Gone |
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Feb 20, 2008 22:15:51 GMT
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Thanks for the feedback folks. Always makes me ;D ;D Hi v8ian, 3.7 ratio is a bit weird (but very useful behind a V8). I know the T series diff came in a 3.7, never thought we got it in the UK though, might be off an early 4 speed Celica - which would kind of make sense or an auto perhaps?? If it was from a Celica ST it is almost certainly a T series, but then again the spline measurements you have don't really add up either. Early T series (zenki) are like this :  Later T series (kouki) which is were found in '85 on AE86's  Fairly sure Celica live axles only got zenki's. But if your shafts measured 28mm on the splines then I don't know. T series aren't renowned for their ultimate strength - so if yours has survived abuse behind a V8 perhaps it isn't a T ? TBH theres loads of Toyota axle variants so could be anything really. Some good info hereHi and thanks alfazer. Inspiration is what this place is all about. I see you already have a RV8. TBH if I was going to start this now I'd definitely use a Toyota 1UZ. They are fairly cheap and accessible now. When I started mine 7-8 years ago they were still fitted to luxury barges, ferrying plutocrats to the golf course - way out of my price range. Using a 1UZ also means that bolting it to a Supra gearbox is a bit easier with a kit from CRS |
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2020 10:43:11 GMT by celicaV8
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Feb 20, 2008 22:41:09 GMT
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Yeah, the Lexus was what I fancied all along but I was offered this rover v8 last week and thought it was worth sizing up in the flesh. The Lexus is a bit more expensive but when I hear how easy/cheap it is to mate with the supra box it narrows the price a bit. And they are getting cheaper and easier to find. Plus the standard performance is better. I'm reading a bit about the 1UZ, megasquirt, etc. and it all sounds really interesting. (lextreme.com) There's at least 3 different sumps to pick from too. I'l probably sell this RA28 in the picture  and do the overhaul on another tatty RA28 that I have here. I wouldn't feel as guilty modding it, as the one in the pic is original and in great shape. Al |
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1976 Suzuki GT550 Celica RA28...Gone |
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
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Feb 20, 2008 23:26:18 GMT
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Thanks for the info, I am even more confused than before , but the shafts are deffo 28mm splines and the casing does not have the extra vertical rib, I am wondering if it is some sort of hi-bred, It certainly has taken some serious abuse, 100s of drag strip launches @5k++ and sidestepping the clutch, it certainly works for its keep, with 1.604 60ft times ;D I did have an earlier type diff with 25mm shafts, I bought it just in case I broke mine, but as soon as I realised it was different, I chopped off the flanges/bearing housings to use when I narrowed my axle, did any of the hiace or lite Aces come with LSDs??, Most of the people carriers I have seen in the breakers seem to have 1/2 shafts missing, are they fragile?? sorry More questions. What sort of spec is your Rover running, and I see there is another sitting in the background Ian ;D |
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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Found this languishing down on page 21 - time for an update methinks ;D Loads of little jobs done and after 7 years it's ready for its' MOT....well apart from the exhaust. Tried all the usual off-the-peg suspects:   Neither were close to fitting, so onto the custom exhaust places, thinking the cost of a mandrel tube bender and TIG welder ain't worth the investment for one exhaust system. Long story short, wouldn't trust any of the three I've been to see Thinking about it there isn't anything else I haven't done myself so why should this be any different? My only option is to buy preformed mandrel bends like this :  ......and cut/weld up a big 3D jigsaw. 3D jigsaws need 3D models to solve ;D Modeled all the tubes up (no cheating these are all straight cuts on mandrel bent 1.5"/2" tube). These are the 2 current favourites:
1: A block hugger evolution:  
2: Forward facing (TVR style):   A bit more tinkering/measuring before I decide what to build. Any tips on manifold building? |
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2020 11:14:52 GMT by celicaV8
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)
and do the overhaul on another tatty RA28 that I have here. I wouldn't feel as guilty modding it, as the one in the pic is original and in great shape.