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May 19, 2024 18:40:04 GMT
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Does anyone have any tricks? My missus accidentally left the hazard lights on when pumping the brakes (so I could see under the car which brake hose had burst earlier). I got back to the car later and I can not get in, hazard lights are blinking very faintly and everything else is completely dead. Turning the key in the door lock brings the lock up halfway, but not enough for the door to open by the handle. Help!
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,980 
Club RR Member Number: 77
Member is Online
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Does the key work in the other door any better?
Or the bootlid?
Is the battery in the boot or under the bonnet?
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,201
Club RR Member Number: 170
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What year of E46 is it? To answer your questions mk2cossie : -Pre-LCIs certainly have a bootlid barrell, but I'm not sure if LCIs do. Mine is an early LCI and it has a mechanical boot lock. Post LCIs only have one door lock on the doors (driver's), and I'll assume all E46s have the boot lock ; on the M3s, all of them do from start to end. -Battery is in the boot. So you should be able to get into the boot with it. |
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There is no lock on the boot - I forgot to put, it is a compact, they also have a battery in the boot.
When I bought it, the battery was also dead - turning the door lock with the key about 30 times finally got the plunger to come up and open the door.
Just by chance, my missus came out and pressed the boot release button as I was turning the key and it opened the boot - the battery must have summoned enough power to unlock it. I think I'm going to add a little cord to the bonnet release or something where you can get to it from the kidney grille.
The only point of access to the battery is the rear plate light bulb on the boot I noticed - I was thinking about adding 12v to these terminals to see if the battery would slowly charge.
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May 21, 2024 10:54:00 GMT
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Whenever I had this situation as a recovery driver, my solution was to connect the jump-pack to the starter solenoid using one of the rods from the lock-out kit. Plenty of insulating tape along the rod prevents it shorting anywhere else. Once you're on the terminal, have the customer turn on the jump-pack and operate their key. Then you just have a normal jump start.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,857
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May 21, 2024 13:50:30 GMT
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The only point of access to the battery is the rear plate light bulb on the boot I noticed - I was thinking about adding 12v to these terminals to see if the battery would slowly charge. I doubt that will work, number plate lights are normally ignition controlled so no path back to the battery when the ignition is off. You need access to something connected directly to the battery as nickwheeler 's suggestion |
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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marcmoss
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 121
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May 21, 2024 16:07:39 GMT
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You are lucky... I have an e46m3 here, the key stopped working so I locked it manually. Went to unlock it and the mechanism inside the barrel snapped locking me out of the car and it was deadlocked. Had access to the boot for the battery but without the key playing ball the only way in to release the deadlock was through the passenger window so I ended up buying a replacement door glass and had to do the unthinkable and smash it. Once in and ignition on i could release the deadlock replace the glass and the door barrel as well.
Total nightmare
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May 29, 2024 20:07:18 GMT
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Yes, I thought I would be in the same situation - I was going to smash the rear window. Sometimes the main key works on the button, and locking it on the fob deadlocks it (you can't even unlock it from the inside) - I got a new key cut and then coded for the central locking (doesn't work in the ignition (yet)), but at least I won't get locked out of it again. It doesn't help the locks go haywire sometimes and lock itself. IT clearly just wants to rest and doesn't want to be driven  I think I'll rig something to pop the boot at some point. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,201
Club RR Member Number: 170
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May 30, 2024 15:07:50 GMT
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Yes, I thought I would be in the same situation - I was going to smash the rear window. Sometimes the main key works on the button, and locking it on the fob deadlocks it (you can't even unlock it from the inside) - I got a new key cut and then coded for the central locking (doesn't work in the ignition (yet)), but at least I won't get locked out of it again. It doesn't help the locks go haywire sometimes and lock itself. IT clearly just wants to rest and doesn't want to be driven I think I'll rig something to pop the boot at some point. It sounds like your GM5 module is playing up. Lucily, many folks can refurbish them for a reasonable cost. |
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It sounds like it, I've only done a very brief bit of research - the other day I popped the bonnet, put the car keys on the seat, and went to open the bonnet - the door blew closed in the wind, and the doors locked. I had to slip a bit of metal through the top of the door and then use a long twig through the opening to lift the keys out, it took about an hour and ruined the rubber seals, I'm going to have the module looked at, this had gone too far now.   |
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