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Dec 22, 2023 21:40:48 GMT
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I'm working on the chassis/frame of my 1984 Nissan Patrol. It is rusty on the inside. Any advice what to do about it? My plan is to use Deox C and rinse it with water. That to spray it with some kind of anti rust stuff  |
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Dec 22, 2023 23:29:35 GMT
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The other thing is to clean all the debris out, may even need to cut a few holes but it's the muck that holds the moisture and causes the worst rust.
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It is already clean. I had it upright and a 200 bar pressure washer on 90°c with a special nozzle on a hose ran thrue it untill only clean water came out. Took a while but it is very clean now.
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The only way to get rust out of the inside would be to have it chemically dipped (or cut it all to bits and weld it back up but that would be crazy!).
If it were me and your confident that the inside is clean I would make sure its fully dry, paint the outside and then flood the inside of all of the box sections with Dinitrol or similar and do it a couple of times to make sure you have got everywhere.
This is a common problem with all steel cars when you are restoring them as there are always some box sections you can't get into as they don't need any welding, sometimes you can see into them and what i've found is that generally even though they were bare metal originally they don't tend to suffer from corrosion too much (just a light coating) unless they were subjected to damp and road salt in which case they have rusted through and you need to repair/replace them and can deal with any issues inside them at the same time.
The questions you need to ask yourself are how long do you want it to last and how much is it going to get used in the wet and on the winter roads.
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Dec 23, 2023 17:12:19 GMT
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Yes, there is a chemical dip business pretty close but that costs up to €4000,- for the complete treatment of stripping paint, de rust it and coat it in a primer.
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Dec 23, 2023 19:18:46 GMT
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If there are no spots that are obvious rusted through and the metal is nice and thick I would go with homersimpson his advice. If you can keep it dry and clean inside the rails it won't rust very hard.
And if you plan on offroading it I would look into the openings that are in the chassis, maybe put some rubber plugs in? Can you rinse the chassis out easily? That helps to save it as well.
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Dec 24, 2023 10:13:02 GMT
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Yes, it is only rusted. No rot and it is at full thickness.
The Patrol will not see any offroad and will be garaged in winter so no salt either. I never drive my old hobby cars in the winter.
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Dec 24, 2023 19:34:34 GMT
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I don't know how much experience you have with deox c so apologies if i'm going over old ground here.
In my experience (three full restorations over 15 years) deox c in powder form only really works in baths.
And in gel form is a right pain to clean off if it dries.
You could try and blank all the holes and fill the legs with it.
It would need a good 24 hours to work and you might even have to flip the chassis over to ensure it gets in everywhere and doesn't dry out.
If the legs are in good nick and you're just trying to cover your bases I'd be more temted to spray a good encapsulator inside followed by a cavity wax.
It might be worth getting a smart phone camera endoscopic thing and having a good look first.
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Dec 24, 2023 20:53:07 GMT
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IIIRC one of the Dinitrol products has a rust neutralisation component mixed in with the wax, so in theory you could just get it clean and dry and then just blast that (or equivalent) straight in there.
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Dec 24, 2023 22:29:32 GMT
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I don't know how much experience you have with deox c so apologies if i'm going over old ground here. In my experience (three full restorations over 15 years) deox c in powder form only really works in baths. And in gel form is a right pain to clean off if it dries. You could try and blank all the holes and fill the legs with it. It would need a good 24 hours to work and you might even have to flip the chassis over to ensure it gets in everywhere and doesn't dry out. If the legs are in good nick and you're just trying to cover your bases I'd be more temted to spray a good encapsulator inside followed by a cavity wax. It might be worth getting a smart phone camera endoscopic thing and having a good look first. As an aside i've found that just buying citric acid from e-bay is far cheaper that deox C and mixing it up in bucket with water has yielded some great results (clearly not going to work on a chassis though unless you have your own vat!) The stuff you get on e-bay is used to make bath bombs I from what I can see.
I've found it does work better with warm water and i've now got an old slow cooker to try when I do my next car to keep it warm.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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don't waste money on branded rust treatment products. All you need is standard Phosphoric acid (as used in the brewing industry and many others) its the active ingredient in stuff like deox C and far cheaper to buy straight. I would mix it up to about 30% concentration and spray it inside the box section with a shultz gun and lance (like you would use to put dinitrol in there). Even one application will make a big difference but if you were really keen you could do an application of acid followed by a blow out with your pressure washer you remove the rust that has been converted to phosphate than repeat. After the last application you can simply leave it to dry and spray in a coat of dinitrol over the top. No need to rinse out with water.
don't use citric acid btw. It will continue to eat the good steel away where as phosphoric will not.
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Dec 28, 2023 17:12:47 GMT
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Thanks! I already have a shultz gun and lance.
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