mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,347
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1978 Fisher Fury - whoosh!mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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Mini update The tyres were at around 25psi, so I let them down to 20 all round. Also checked nut torque and tried fitting caps, got 2 on and 2 were proving difficult so I'll come back to them. I've also been looking at replacing my knob. Here's the 'as bought' The wood is ok, but not the vibe I'm after. The previous owner had seen fit to glue this on... So the threads were full of hard glue I spent about 10 mins trying to scrape it out then gave up and bought a die nut. And here's the new one That's a genuine little Honda piston from my C50 twiddling days, with a 3D printed adaptor for a 17mm internal hex (M10 nut) to 13mm gudgeon pin. Then a pair of M10x1.25 nuts glued into the hole. I want to check the alignment and still need to sort out the cold start. Then use as much as I can before a certain weekend in May...
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,347
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1978 Fisher Fury - whoosh!mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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Apr 23, 2024 20:16:15 GMT
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Well then I've not really done much recently... I took it for a blast on Sunday down to see Colonelk, which allowed me a few opportunities to stretch it's legs on a nice open derestricted road. It's fast! The lower tyre pressure seems to have taken away some of the twitchiness, but I think a lot of it is me getting used to something so raw and direct. I think the brakes are improving with bedding in. There's an occasional slight knock, which I discovered is coming from a sloppy bush in the RHS lower wishbone. No point doing alignment until that is swapped out. Sadly no pics, but I had a very enjoyable morning in it!
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,705
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1978 Fisher Fury - whoosh!Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Apr 23, 2024 21:21:16 GMT
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The bush knock may be a metric bolt in an imperial bush - common issue especially with the long rocker arm bolt.
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,347
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1978 Fisher Fury - whoosh!mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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The bush knock may be a metric bolt in an imperial bush - common issue especially with the long rocker arm bolt. I saw your reply on Facebook, thanks. I'm taking it somewhere next weekend for a sanity check on everything, so hopefully I can diagnose better then. Would be nice if tightening the bolt to clamp the inner sleeve was the (short term) solution! I'm looking forward to seeing it on track............... I'm looking forward to taking it on track!! 😀
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,347
Club RR Member Number: 84
|
1978 Fisher Fury - whoosh!mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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Been a bit of a weird one... Last week it went into a local place for a check over and investigation into the knocking.
This did indeed turn out to be M12 bolts through 1/2" bushes. Duly solved by fitting some 1/2" UNF high tensile bolts.
There were a number of minor issues documented during the check, which I'm going to work through, such as improvements to hose routings and my 3D printed bonnet frame joiner being split. He also had a quick look at the tune to see if the cold start could be improved, but had no luck.
The rub comes when I tried to drive it home on Friday afternoon and it stalled repeatedly during the 3 mile journey. It's basically undrivable and I'm supposed to be driving it to, and around, Goodwood. (Insert many and varied expletives here)
Despite being rather busy over the weekend, I've managed to reload the old tune, just in case something had corrupted and tonight discovered that my coolant temp signal is all over the place, blowing hot and cold.
Here's a vid:
The enrichment is also all over the place as it thinks the engine is either stone cold or boiling over.
So I'm hopefully picking up a new sensor tomorrow and currently have everything crossed that makes the car usable again!
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Great diagnostics dude, it is fun having the ability to delve into the data so easily and find issues like this. I finally found the cause of my warm up idle causing stalls randomly, the exhaust VVT going momentarily to the stop. Why it is doing this is another matter entirely J
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,705
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1978 Fisher Fury - whoosh!Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Sensors are usually pretty robust, kit car wiring and earths not so much - Always worth double checking that the engine is well earthed to the chassis / battery, and that the wiring associated with the sensor does not just pull out of the plug - although thats not always an indication of everything being okay if the wire insulation has been crimped rather than the core.
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,347
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1978 Fisher Fury - whoosh!mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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Yes a wiring check is very much on the cards too. I will have to double check this, but I'm sure I unplugged it and it stopped misbehaving.
The car uses most of the original loom, although I think it's been shortened at the ECU plug end.
Got a sensor waiting for me on the way home. Will check the above then plug it in looking for a steady, sensible reading, at which point I can swap them over.
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,347
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1978 Fisher Fury - whoosh!mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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Latest is that it's looking like it is the wiring.
I plugged in the new sensor, unfitted and the reading was still wonky.
So I've tried wiggling the wires with a continuity check on the multimeter, between plug and ECU which gives varying results. However doing it on my own is awkward...
Current plan is to splice in a new wire between plug and ECU. I also need to look into the earths, but I believe they are shared and I've only got one weird sensor.
Nothing like a bit of time pressure!!
To be continued...
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,347
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1978 Fisher Fury - whoosh!mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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.... last night was fairly long and very stressful! I spliced in a new 'signal' wire from the coolant sensor to the ECU, which didn't solve the problem. So I then looked into the 'signal ground' which is shared between a lot of the engine sensors. The actual wires for the coolant sensor disappear under the inlet manifold, so I ended up tapping a new one into the unused lambda sensor signal ground, after triple checking they are connected on the wiring diagram. The outcome of this was a steady reading, but permanently 120°. And me being very depressed as it was looking like no RRW for the Fury... I frantically asked for help on the speeduino facebook group and was given a few basic pointers. 1. Measure the resistance of the sensor when cold - ~3000ohms, same as the new sensor. 2. Measure voltages at the ECU pins and sensor plug pins both plugged and unplugged. I got 5V at both ends unplugged and 2.5V at the ECU when plugged in. This effectively verifies that the wires work and the sensor is providing resistance to the circuit, e.g. working ok. 3. Check the calibration for the sensor. It's hard to check the current values, but I found a selectable option which matched some recommended values from an MX5 setup guide and my measurements from step 1, so uploaded that... BINGO!!! A steady 20° reading. I fired it up and it ran up to temp as before: So I'm now back to a poor starting, grumpy off idle car - but literally couldn't be happier! As a mechanical engineer, I'm equal parts pleased and annoyed it's turned out to be a firmware and software issue I then completed a few small jobs around the car, replacing my bonnet hinge bar joiner, new breather hose, fitting hub caps, adding some spring washers under the exhaust manifold bolts. I also tried to swap out my front indicators, but it became apparent it was going to take me too long so that can wait... See you at RRW!
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