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I have a problem... its got 16 valves, 2 carbs and 8 pistons.... its a rover V8. Always a nightmare of a job, came in as a non running part finished project, my mission: make it run. It had already done the run of local garages, so I took nothing for granted and assumed everything had been played with. Spotted very quickly that a/ the points and condenser werre shot and b/ the capri injector fuel pump was delivering way too much fuel (like out the carb overflows too much!!). New points. condenser and gravity feed from an old banger racing tank later, one running RV8  . Correct carb type fuel pump ordered, delivered and fitted, time to fire it up. Started easily on choke, but revving high, backfiring and cutting out. bah. One carb is lifting its piston, one isn't, and the plugs and leads look mismatched and worn out. Carbs cleaned and rebuilt, plugs and leads changed. Starts, runs, cuts out again. and again. and again. It won't even stabilize long enough to strobe the front pulley and check the timing. Seeing as the timing light stops working as the engine cuts, and the dizzy earth strap (inside) is frayed I changed the whole thing for an electronic one off a range rover I just happened to have lying around. Starts easier, backfire is gone. Sussed? nope, 20 seconds, dies. Put meter on coil+ and ran engine, healthy 12v even after it dies. Had another look at fuelling. Pump seemed to be having a hard time pulling through from the tank so maybe fuel starvation?? Fed from a can instead, healthy flow and fuel coming back along the return but motor still dies. Even putting on the revs doesnt save it, its like someone keyed the ignition, one second brum, next burrrrr. Oh yeah, and there is plenty smoke from the (brand new) exhausts, so they aint blocked.... Thats the situation as of 10 o'clock tonight (when I gave up and came home). My head is thouroughly battered, I just don't see whats up! The mad thing is, it wil restart instantly after it dies, and (now I fixed all the other problems) actually seems to run quite well, no nasty mechanical noises, running smoothly on all 8 you can get 750 rpm tickover quite easily, just not for long!!!!! Any ideas, advice, sympathy etc always appreciated.  |
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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Have you tried a different coil, per chance?
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Vacuum pipes?
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Faster. Faster. Until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
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Teh electronic ignition kit was dizzy, coil and amplifier, so yeah, changed coil
Vacuum pipes, there are two... one from RH carb to vac advance (there wasn't one, I have fitted it) and the big one to the brake servo (which I plugged up just in case...)
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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Does it rev up at all when it does start? Whats oil pressure like?
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Faster. Faster. Until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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simple but have you checked the sparkplugs?
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Flailing here. Compression? Maybe valves are maladjusted, or bent. God knows, you didn't assemble it. Smoke out the exhaust might mean unseated/stuck/unopening valves.
Is the coil to be used with a ballast or nay? They are particular to that. It could be running on 6v if you've got a 9v coil and a ballast taking off another 3v.
Reaching, what the hell. I'm here, you're there.
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 Team Blitz Ford Capri parts worldwide: Restoration, Road, or Race. Used, Repro, and NOS, ranging from scabby to perfect. Itching your Capri jones since 1979! Buy, sell, trade. www.teamblitz.com blitz@teamblitz.com |
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Mr S
Posted a lot
10-4 Good buddy.
Posts: 2,654
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Are you using genuine rover (lucas) dizzy cap and rotor arm? I used pattern ones and they were utter sh1te and gave similar symptoms to yours, it wouldn't run on LPG at all as the spark was just too weak!
Cheers, Martin
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Suzuki GSXR1000 K2
BMW R1150GS
BMW K1200RS
Chevy K5 Blazer
Chevy Suburban LT
Jaguar XKR
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i had one like this the other week,
i "think/hope" the problem was in the treble wire connector out of the dizzy.
i found it had a dry joint.
the car hasnt done it since?
Sid.
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WANTED 8 OR 10X15 SLOT MAGS.
US FORD 5 STUD.
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chrisw
Part of things
Posts: 171 
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We had simialar when getting the Landy running, turned out to be an incorrect coil. Only noticed when I touched the coil and it was roasting! I wouldn't have minded but it was brand new!
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Had the same fault on my EFi rangie turned out to be the brand new rotor arm i got from halfords,what had happened was that the small metal contact in rotor arm that clicks on to the shaft had fell out  . |
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harris66
Part of things
drive it, break it, fix it and make it quicker!
Posts: 699
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dodgy needle valves in the su,s?? again i had the exact same prob and they were to blame
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1.2 corsa daily, 1.8t a4 avante, 6.3ltr austin a40....
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If it's any consolation I've had a couple of real b*stard cars in recently that have so many faults it takes ages to work through them. Get to the end, having sorted out everyone else's mistakes, and the thing still isn't right! Latest one was a 6N 16 valve Polo that will not idle properly after being left for a bit. Git.
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Is the coil to be used with a ballast or nay? I was wondering that. New points. condenser and gravity feed from an old banger racing tank later, one running RV8 . Correct carb type fuel pump ordered, delivered and fitted So it was running ok before the correct pump was fitted? Indicates a fueling issue if thats the case, what about a video so people can get an idea as to whats going on. |
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Faster. Faster. Until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
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Is the coil to be used with a ballast or nay? I was wondering that. New points. condenser and gravity feed from an old banger racing tank later, one running RV8 . Correct carb type fuel pump ordered, delivered and fitted So it was running ok before the correct pump was fitted? Indicates a fueling issue if thats the case, what about a video so people can get an idea as to whats going on. Coil is attached to the ignition amplifier, which is fed with 12v. Don't know about the points one but thats why I changed it. It does run better, just not for long It started up on gravity feed, wasn't run like that though. I have tried fuel pump/tank, fuel pump/gallon can and gravity feed (again) but it keeps cutting out. When it dies, nothing keeps it running, doesn't matter if its ticking over or revving and it starts again first click. Video is a good idea! I'll see what I can do with my phone tomorrow, at very least you will all get a good laugh at the car the engine is in. |
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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spacekadett
Part of things
F*cking take that Hans Brrix!!
Posts: 820
Member is Online
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Feeling your pain as I have two troublesome runners at work ATM. Theres a old Zetec Rustscort that runs fine from cold, then warms and behaves just like the cat's blocked, but it isn't. After loads of testing / hair pulling it gained a miss on 2 and 3 as well so my boss endoscoped it. Seems these's signs of blowing between them, so guess my next job  T'other is a '86 import Jeep Wrangler in tasteful beige and brown ;D After 6 miles it starts to cut out, although at revs it just has enough inertia to keep going and rev back up. With the top off the SPI you can hear the relays go and watch the fuel stop, then start squirting again. Trouble is I have no data cos import stuff is different and mice have eaten most of the Chilton manual that was in it Probably the same bastids I found nesting in the airbox  |
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Mechanic's rule #1... If the car works, anything left on the floor after you finished wasn't needed in the first place  |
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Faster. Faster. Until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
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Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
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I had a strange problem on my Civic (that seems to be quite well documented) - the main relay joints are poorly soldered from new - when the car gets hot, and the relay heats up, expanding the solder, the joints for arming the fuel pump/ignition break. Then if you stall it, ot turn the engine off and restart it whilst its hot, the engine won't start. Easy fix, but not before it had knackered my igniton module and bought soythampton to a standstill :-)
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. Correct carb type fuel pump ordered, delivered and fitted, time to fire it up. Started easily on choke, but revving high, backfiring and cutting out. bah. One carb is lifting its piston, one isn't, and the plugs and leads look mismatched and worn out. Carbs cleaned and rebuilt, plugs and leads changed. Starts, runs, cuts out again. and again. and again. It won't even stabilize long enough to strobe the front pulley and check the timing. Seeing as the timing light stops working as the engine cuts, and the dizzy earth strap (inside) is frayed I changed the whole thing for an electronic one off a range rover I just happened to have lying around. Starts easier, backfire is gone. Sussed? nope, 20 seconds, dies. Put meter on coil+ and ran engine, healthy 12v even after it dies. Had another look at fuelling. Pump seemed to be having a hard time pulling through from the tank so maybe fuel starvation?? Fed from a can instead, healthy flow and fuel coming back along the return but motor still dies. Even putting on the revs doesnt save it, its like someone keyed the ignition, one second brum, next burrrrr. Oh yeah, and there is plenty smoke from the (brand new) exhausts, so they aint blocked....
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