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Sept 11, 2022 20:55:01 GMT
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Hello All, Kinda new here, used to post years ago under the name Montanna when I was building a Reliant kitten with a bike engine, but it never got finished. Then had a long line of S%$T boxes and a few bikes. But now... NOW I've got something worth posting about again! Here's my Rover 100 / Metro: So, bit of history (if it counts as history), maybe a more of a trip down memory lane: It's 2007, I'm 20 just gotten together with my now wife and only have a motorcycle for transport (a suzuki bandit 650). She's put in a lot of effort to impress, by riding pillion for a good while longer than most would have considering my riding style at the time, so I decide to get a car. But what car to buy after 4 years of riding like a nutter in all weathers? Looked for a while, but had 2 very bad influences in my life named Adam & Tom (Hello Lads!) who both drove Metros. And were they a riot or what! Easily modified suspension, nippy enough for a bit of fun on country roads and different enough to make people look twice when you bomb past them. So, I went in search... Found a British racing green GTI in Bradford for £800 so I jumped on the train, and shot up there, checked it out in the dark, paid my money and drove it approx' 500 metres to the nearest garage to fill it up for the trip back to West Sussex. After putting 25L of fuel into a 20L tank someone pointed out that petrol was leaking all over the forecourt (turns out the top of the tank was rusted through) and thus started the motoring love of my life with Metros. Yes it was a rocky start (and may have been an abusive relationship in hindsight) but I loved that car, it was just soooo much fun! Even though I spent every weekend welding the damn thing up I was sad to see it go a couple of years later and have regretted selling it ever since. Fast forward to 2022: In Feb / March my last cars head gasket failed, (under mysterious circumstances, you can't prove I was ragging it!) and I ended up using my now wife's car for a few months (we work together so not a huge inconvenience) while, with her undying support decide what I want from a car or motorcycle. Until I see this: There's only 15 mins left on the eBay auction so: a quick consultation with Mrs H, a nervous wait until there's only 30 seconds left, frantic bid.... And it's mine! The advert read as follows: Rover 100r Road legal track car built by talon engineering. Owned and maintained by retired mechanic. In excellent condition throughout. Engine 160bhp 1.8 vvc k series. R65U 3.7 FDA’s gearbox. Rover 200 front brakes. Body strengthened and re-welded. Fully welded roll cage. Racing seats. Full race harness. Oil cooler. Additional gauges. All steel rolled arches. Etc.2 additional sets of wheels and tyres. A frame braked towing kit. Trolly jack. 2 petrol Jerry cans. Totally ready for track days. Can tow or drive to track., Mileage: 60000 I was properly exited now, back in my youth as a yob on the metro power forum, the kings of the metro kingdom were Talon Sportscars, I drooled over their work on the forum and their website, I still remember the roll over jig they used to get at the underside of the cars when seam welding and repairing them for 1.8 conversions. As a yob I never thought that I'd be able to own one but NOW I DID! A few days later I'm re-living my youth, on a train to pick up a metro again, and meet a nice guy called Bernie who was selling the car. He even picked me up from the train station to take me to his mate Roger's house where the metro is kept. Turned out they bought the car together from Talon about 12 years ago and used to do track days together in it. Further questioning revealed that it's been kept in a garage, nice and dry, and comes with two sets of track wheels with tyres, a towing set-up and even jerry cans for track fuel! The engine is the one I recon suits the car best the 160BHP VVC naturally aspirated. It's got an uprated gearbox, sportex exhaust! That's all for tonight I wanna go to bed so the saga continues tomorrow, is it a lemon? Is Bernie a kidnapper who lures people to their deaths using 90's hot hatches? Stay tuned to find out.......
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Sept 12, 2022 6:19:46 GMT
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So, after a short ride to Bromley from East Croydon with Bernie (who turned out to be a really nice guy and genuine car enthusiast) we arrived at Roger's house where the Metro was kept, in a garage as described. First impressions: It's a beaut' And further poking about only confirmed it. Roger as per the advert, was suffering from dementia which made finding more info a little difficult, but also had it's advantages.... I was presented with a stack of history a foot tall (seriously never seen anything like it) he'd documented EVERYTHING, every drop of petrol used over a 5 year period, receipts for the dust caps, photo copies from various manuals, even a weigh station ticket showing the car weighs 880 kg. There was no rust.... anywhere, which is not the norm for a metro and it was very evident that this car had been pampered and wanted for nothing. So this is where it gets, errr, interesting: I'd looked it up on DVLA and the car had done 30 miles since it's last MOT so I'd pre booked an MOT at a local garage that I'd made an educated guess was where it would have been taken for it's yearly test. Drove round there with 8 wheels, a trolly jack, 2 large jerry cans and a towing A Frame in the car. And sure enough, as soon as I pulled up someone popped their head out of the MOT bay and asked "is that Roger's car" WIN. A nervous half hour wait ensued and the car failed.... Balls. It had an exhaust leak from the flex pipe after the downpipe. So I'm now stuck in London with a car that I can't drive home, oh. Another trip down memory lane: spanner-ing in Halfords car park, that trolly jack came in handy and so did every GunGum product stocked in the shop. After a rag around the local back streets to get it hot we got a PASS and I drove it home, Grinning from ear to ear! Since getting it home, I got it booked in for undercarriage treatment as I did not want to be patching it up every weekend like my last metro so it's been stripped back to bare metal, then given a coat of Epoxy primer and one of Raptor. I've also replaced the Sportex exhaust with a full stainless system, built by myself (no pics, sorry will get some next time I'm under there). I'm also replacing both seats with a pair from a Golf GTI, and want to work on the interior next as it's my daily, a little bit of comfort wouldn't go amiss. That's all folks, will update as I go but it'll be slow progress.
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Oct 10, 2022 21:48:55 GMT
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The back of my car has always been a bit bouncy (like Beonce's Booty Bouncy) and I've been researching what's wrong and how to fix it. It feels like a damping issue to me, so there are three options: Option 1: Fit additional conventional dampers to the rear (which involves welding in turrets and modifying the radius arms.) So quite a bit of work but do-able. Option 2: Have the hydralastic units reconditioned (or buy recon ones for £750 quid with a £350 rebate when you send back your units after fitting new ones) Either way lots of money, lots of work and the car is off the road for a while. Option 3: Try and recondition the units myself. So obviously... settled on option 3 'caus why not curse word about with 25 year old pressurised gas canisters The reason the dampers stop working is corrosion, the damper valves themselves are like a little hinged trap door that covers a hole that fluid can run through in only one direction. There are two of these of different sizes giving different bump and rebound damping. Image for information: So what we need to do is get rid of the rust so the trap doors can move again. "how do you do that when they're in a sealed unit without removing them from the car?" you ask, well we're about to find out if it's possible.... or if I'll F&%k up my suspension even more, only time will tell. Step One: Which I did yesterday, so don't go telling me it's a bad idea, it's too late if it is. Was to drain and vacuum out all the old hydrolastic fluid, 3 of the 4 units contained nice green fluid but one of them was full of brown and not so nice. Also had a lot of air in them (where should be only fluid) so I used a vacuum pump to remove that. Then I re-filled the displacers with evaporust and pumped them up to the right height. I'm going to drive around on my new evaporust-a-lastic suspension for a week until I'm confident all the rust will have been removed, then... Step Two: Drain and vacuum again, flush with clear methylated spirit (probably a couple of times) then vacuum again and fill with proper hyrolastic fluid. On my first initial drives there has already been a huge improvement due to the lack of air in the system (even if the damper were functioning properly air is a lot thinner than water) but it'll be interesting to see if the damping improves over the coming week and what it'll be like with the correct fluid in there next week.
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Oct 12, 2022 19:08:45 GMT
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Quick update: it's working! Booty bounce has reduced from beoncé levels to a more acceptable level and it seems to be getting better each day.
Really looking forward to getting the proper fluid back in there now!
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
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Oct 12, 2022 21:20:21 GMT
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This is creative genius. Bored panda should immediately do a "life hack" vidoe to cover it; actually second thoughts this works and is practical so probably out of their remit!
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This is creative genius. Bored panda should immediately do a "life hack" vidoe to cover it; actually second thoughts this works and is practical so probably out of their remit! We'll get 5 minute crafts on it too! Cheers dude, I'm dead chuffed with how it's working and it's really made the car more drivable. It was getting soo crashy over bumps.
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Neat! Was wondering if my MGF needs some love around the suspension spheres. Might see if I can give this a go (although I'm not sure if the system is the same, given that MGFs have separate dampers...)
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MGF front suspension is exactly the same as a Metro, and the rear is another, slightly modified front suspension. MG displacers are the slightly uprated ones from a Metro GTI.
Stock MGF dampers are a simple and necessary bolt-on to the Metro front, once you've welded on the body stiffeners.
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Neat! Was wondering if my MGF needs some love around the suspension spheres. Might see if I can give this a go (although I'm not sure if the system is the same, given that MGFs have separate dampers...) They are indeed the same with different spring and damping rates, metro GTi's and GTA's have the additional front dampers too. The other issue that can occur is that the spheres loose some of their gas so you effectively has a softer spring. But so far the biggest difference for me has been getting the air out of the fluid section by using a vacuum pump because otherwise you've got more compressible gas and more spring.
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Neat! Was wondering if my MGF needs some love around the suspension spheres. Might see if I can give this a go (although I'm not sure if the system is the same, given that MGFs have separate dampers...) They are indeed the same with different spring and damping rates, metro GTi's and GTA's have the additional front dampers too. The other issue that can occur is that the spheres loose some of their gas so you effectively has a softer spring. But so far the biggest difference for me has been getting the air out of the fluid section by using a vacuum pump because otherwise you've got more compressible gas and more spring. The diesels had front shocks too, although all of them should have. Metro bodies have the mounting holes for the shocks, but most didn't get the extra reinforcing. The proper pumps will vacuum the system before pumping in the fluid and pressure, which isn't possible with the modified £50 central heating testers that many people use today. There are a number of ways of regassing the displacers including the DIY way of welding a schraeder valve onto the body. Although you need to be careful not to melt the diaphragm when doing this. Not that I've ever done that, you understand.
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Oct 13, 2022 10:23:55 GMT
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They are indeed the same with different spring and damping rates, metro GTi's and GTA's have the additional front dampers too. The other issue that can occur is that the spheres loose some of their gas so you effectively has a softer spring. But so far the biggest difference for me has been getting the air out of the fluid section by using a vacuum pump because otherwise you've got more compressible gas and more spring. The diesels had front shocks too, although all of them should have. Metro bodies have the mounting holes for the shocks, but most didn't get the extra reinforcing. The proper pumps will vacuum the system before pumping in the fluid and pressure, which isn't possible with the modified £50 central heating testers that many people use today. There are a number of ways of regassing the displacers including the DIY way of welding a schraeder valve onto the body. Although you need to be careful not to melt the diaphragm when doing this. Not that I've ever done that, you understand. Didn't know the diesels had them too, and yes they all could have done with them. I might go down the DIY re-gas path after this just so I can play about with the spring rates, maybe even try adding fluid to the spheres to stiffen them up but will hold off on that for a while to see what this is like.
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Oct 13, 2022 10:35:58 GMT
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I was wondering about adding gas to the spheres to increase the spring rate for a potential KV6 swap, but you've got the issue of the cross-linking stuff with the MGF so you end up stiffening both ends at once. You can delete that, but it's a clever setup really.
I was wondering about custom wishbone fabrication to move the sphere outboard a little, increasing the wheel rate for the same spring rate.
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Oct 13, 2022 11:42:39 GMT
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I was wondering about adding gas to the spheres to increase the spring rate for a potential KV6 swap, but you've got the issue of the cross-linking stuff with the MGF so you end up stiffening both ends at once. You can delete that, but it's a clever setup really. I was wondering about custom wishbone fabrication to move the sphere outboard a little, increasing the wheel rate for the same spring rate. I'd probably go down the individualised route for a kV6 conversion because of the extra weight wanting to raise up the other end. Drove back from Manchester once in my old gti with a bike engine in the boot and linked suspension and handling was sketchy to say the least....
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Oct 13, 2022 11:49:30 GMT
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Yeah that's why I was thinking it'd have to be done after the sphere. If you space it further out on the wishbone then the sphere sees the same amount of force on it despite having more weight on the wheel (because levers). The rest of the system doesn't know anything's changed.
Bit of an involved job though, so I see why most people just blank it all off.
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Oct 15, 2022 20:05:22 GMT
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So got half way through the next step today before it started raining.... Will finish it off in the morning. Drained and vacuumed out the evaporust then flushed all four units twice with clear metholated sport. The stuff that came out of even the units with clean looking hydralastic fluid last time was grim! 🤮 These photos were the first one, got worse after that so much curse word floating about in it and you could see black bits coming down the tube and into the container. Oh and with all the fluid out it's loooowwww!
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Oct 15, 2022 20:08:41 GMT
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"Curse word" ? I wrote stuff.... Lol 🤣
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Congratulation on your purchase, looks like a really nice example with a nicely executed engine conversion. Hope the suspension overhaul goes to plan, I'm sure it will make a fun daily driver once you've resolved the issues.
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Oct 16, 2022 13:22:32 GMT
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Cheers man, I've been daily driving it since July already and it's a great laugh!
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Oct 16, 2022 15:53:01 GMT
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So it's all done now and pumped back up! Dead chuffed with the results, feels much more planted around corners and way less crashy.
Happy bunny!
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So this car did not end well for me... A couple of days after the suspension overhall I was driving home and a deer ran out from some undergrowth. I swerved to avoid and.... It didn't go well. I walked away with a few scratches thanks to the roll cage, but without that I'd not be posting this now. Moral of the story and the reason I'm posting this is: If you change your suspension, tyres etc, even if it's an improvement, take the time to re-learn your car. I didn't and paid the price. I've got another project now I'll start a new thread for in a couple of days, but stay safe.
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