1948 Triumph Roadster Supercharged plus other stuff…

I love it.

You should copy and past the whole entry above, into this cool thread.

forum.retro-rides.org/thread/223228/home-tools-equipment

Some great innovations out there.

The Triumph has a bad clutch shudder and I think it’s made worse by the engine mounts. They are really soft and someone has coated the edges with black rtv to make them look a bit better. That really didn’t add much strength…







I couldn’t get originals, so I got a pair as close as possible in size, but it meant the chassis mounts needed to be modified. By modified I mean cut off and replaced.
This is one of the originals in situ.









The new mounts including a part number for the record.








The new mounts had the same spacing on the top studs but I wanted to use bolts so I cut the studs off and drilled them out to suit the mounts on the engine.









Propped up the engine and started cutting the old mount away.
Here is the new mount bolted to the engine with the old mount mostly cut off.










The chassis mount fully removed and tidied.








Cut a new chassis mount from a piece of rhs after making a cardboard template.







Tacked in place.









I got the other side to the same stage and then found that the board I had propping up the engine had allowed the whole thing to sag about 15mm.
So I had to cut off both mounts and reshape them and then things worked out ok.
One side welded as much as I can get to from the underside.









After a test drive, it is much better but still not cured. The rear/gearbox mount doesn’t look real flash either so I think it’s in for replacement also…
The clutch will have to come out to fix it 100%.

It might just be my eyes or remnants of welds but it does look like you might have some hairline cracks in the chassis?

Really enjoying this project so far!

it probably had some sort of residual pressure device in there which kept a couple of psi in the brake line, I'd be inclined to see If I could engineer some sort of adjuster in there, some sort of snail one would work well, perhaps with a bit of filing to the end of the shoe you use a morris minor one which sits between the shoe and the cylinder.

(you'd also need to drill a small hole in the drum or backplate to access it as well)

Making a pulley continues.

Bolted the welded up hub into the aluminium outer piece. Then trued up the face and bored a hole.







Only problem was that the hole was too big because I hadn’t checked where the crank pulley came to on the crankshaft. So I decided to cut the centre out of the hub and make version two.

Press a piece of 1/8”







Then cut the centre out.









Welded a disc of 5mm plate into it, then weld it back into the other disc to complete the hub. Trued the face and bored the correct size hole.







Here’s how the original crank pulley sits on the new one.







Mounted it in position and drilled a pair of holes to fit drive pins. They’re welded to the steel hub and engage in holes in the original pulley.








Finished, other than bending over the tab on the lock washer.








Thanks for looking. If you spot any potential problems, don’t be shy.
Coming soon…brackets!

No vents Crockpot, it was open on the top. Also have never degassed the melt, not aware of that.
Agree that the sand was probably too moist.


As promised…bracketry.

With the radiator out of the way and the car lifted a couple of feet, access is a delight. Not often that can be said with any car in my experience.

The right hand front engine plate was the obvious place for the supercharger bracket.
Made a cardboard template and transferred it to a piece of 5mm plate. Picked up 3 existing holes and added one more.
I discovered that great tradition of the previous restorer continues. The two bolts that I removed, while the same size and thread, had different markings. Boy that gets on my goat. But I have to admit he’s consistent - no two fasteners shall be the same!







Used a folded up rag to support the s/c in its approximate position. Just enough room.








Cut out a pair of lugs from the same plate. These will be the main supports.










Welded them to a short piece of 5mm flat.








After bolting up the main plate I tacked a piece of angle to it.









After attaching the small bracket to the s/c, it was the clamped to the angle. The pulleys were then able to be lined up.







I made another piece to pick up three of the inlet flange bolts on the underside of the s/c.This will effectively lock it in position so a belt tensioner will be needed. But it means I can avoid any flexible joints in the plumbing.
Once all the bits were tacked securely, the whole lot was removed to the bench for welding. Also added some gussets.
This surprisingly gleaming thing  ( must be the light ) is the result .









And the pump ( it’s so little it seems a bit of overstatement to call it a supercharger) is mounted.









I had taken the tape off the ports in order to give it a brief  test spin, just to check that the rotation was correct. There was some grin factor involved.

Next I need to work out a belt tensioner and get some tube ordered to connect the holes.


Thanks for reading.

Can't wait to see how this pans out.

Love this little car, never even knew they existed. The engineering you are doing is amazing - will be following this for sure! Most would have thrown an MX5 or Honda engine at it, you are (hopefully) immproving on what was there. Try Morris Minor or Beetle adjusters in the brakes.

Thanks for the kind words.



Belt tensioner.
Found a suitable sealed bearing in the stash. I wanted two, so of course, there was one. It is just tad narrow for the belt to run on, so I found a suitable piece of pipe to make a sleeve that is wide enough. Bored it out so the bearing is a nice press fit.





Tidied up the outside and parted it off. Here it is with the bearing.













Turned down the end of a piece of 1” bright shaft to fit the bearing. And drilled and tapped the end with an 8mm thread.









A couple of other bits of scrap, a hole to fit the shaft.







An adjuster cut from another scrap of flat. The curved slot was drilled and filed by hand. I couldn’t think of a simple way of milling it.








All the bits welded together and bead blasted.










Used the mounting hole that I had drilled in the main bracket for the pivot and added one more for the locking point.








Thanks for looking. Always open to suggestions…