Rover SD1 V8 5 speed gearbox problems

It does sound like synchros, is it OK if you double the clutch?

One thing you might want to check first though is the external selector mechanism, the rubber bushes fall to pieces and it flaps all over the place, I have poly bushes in my tr7v8 which work well.

It's still the same even when you double clutch it and all the bushes have been changed on the selector mechanism. It's a real strange one, as i haven't experienced anything like this before.

I would avoid ATF if I could. Redline MTF is good as is SMX (I used this).
The ATF was a BL bodge to overcome cold graunching of the gears with the original specified oil. No thought given to box wear or longevity.
Plenty on t'web about the issues (and yes, there those that have driven to the moon without a problem).

Bit of an update...

so i pulled the gearstick gaiter up and i noticed there was a spilt in the clamp on the ball cup holder, so i removed that and welded the thing up as it was loose, but since clamping it all up the damn thing is even worse now!

So my problem of 2nd and 4th is there, but it's next to impossible to get 2nd or 4th.. almost as if the gearstick cant move far enough back, for the gearbox to properly go into them two gears?

Also it's near impossible to get into gears properly, as first and second are pretty much in the same position and if you pull the stick over to select 5th gear or reverse, it will go into 5th and reverse but the second you let go of the gearstick, it springs straight over to the centre where 3rd is, but still be in 5th or reverse? hopefully that makes sense.. if not, you know how if in neutral you pull a or push a gear stick left or right and it wants to spring back to the centre, well it does that but when it's in gear?

yes they're new bushes. you could move the remote a little bit, say if you was to lever it with a good size screw drive or something like that.

Right i've had a look underneath and this is what i have found.

The grub screw is locked in tight and that is not the problem, but i believe i've found the problem to all the play and troublesome getting gears.

I cannot seem to solve the problem though. As seen in the diagram, you can see on the left hand side that there is a rod and i've marked the end in a blue circle showing the bushing. Mine has the bushing and selector rod pin installed, but the problem is as seen in my drawing on the right hand side of the diagram. There is a gap between both selectors and the selector rod pin, will not tighten up anymore? it's as if there should be something between the two of them to stop the movement.

You will see i've attached three pictures i've taken, looking down at the nut attached to the selector rod pin, that goes through the gearbox gear selector and then beneath it the gearstick selector rod.

This is the type of movement i'm experiencing and that is, as per photo 1. (without selecting any gears) i moved the gearstick to the far left, and you can see the gearbox selector rod is in the far left position with the nut facing to the left and as per what the arrow is pointing too, is the nylon bush beneath the gearbox selector rod, located in the gearstick selector rod.

Picture number two, shows i've moved the gear stick to the centre position and note the gearbox selector rod/pin/nut are still facing the left position but the nylon bush beneath it which is located in the gearstick rod, is in the central position.

picture three, shows the gearstick over to the far right position, note how the gearbox selector rod/pin/nut are still facing in the left position, but the nylon bush that the blue arrow is pointed to, shows the nylon bush beneath the gearbox selector rod, that is attached to the gearstick selector rod is now facing the right hand side.

that is how much play there is, between both rods, but the selector rod pin, wont tighten up anymore. does the selector rod pin have a flat side? to help location ect.

from underneath the car, you can push the gearstick shaft end up and down with about a 1/4" movement. so i'd say there is a 1/4" gap between both selecting rods, but what could be causing it?
i can't access curse word all from underneath, unless i drop the gearbox out.

hopefully it makes sense!

Hi, The remote selector rod runs through two holes in webs underneath the remote casing, they could be either worn to excess or broken causing too much movement. Or the white Nylon bush in the remote selector shaft is worn. It's awhile since I've dealt with it but from memory the selector rod pin is parallel sided.








Colin

Edit: It's a bit of a fiddle but If you remove the gearbox mount, gearlever and propshaft letting the back of the gearbox down, you can remove the remote without taking the gearbox out entirely.

So i spent a few hours fiddling and i've found that it's the nylon bush that's worn, as the ball that sits in the centre of the bush, is nearly up and out of the bush about half way as seen in my drawing below marked in blue.
So when you rock the stick left and right, you can see the end of the rod moving left and right, but not the actual gear selector rod coming from the box.

Where can these nylon bushes be bought, as i contacted rimmerbros and a few landrover specialists and non of them supply the part anymore. I did find John Craddocks, but the part number didn't match the rover part number, but the nylon bush looks the same www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/frc5076-seat-for-gear-lever-lt7777s-and-lt85.html

I only had 4 bush's, so i put two on the lower part as seen in Darkspeeds picture and i put two up top (not in front of the washers but on the other side). so i'm assuming then, that i should've received 6 bushes and not 4 when i purchased them?

You might try robsport, they keep a lot of the more obscure parts for TR7's which use the same linkage.