Badger
Part of things
Posts: 250
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Jan 27, 2022 21:24:58 GMT
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I'm currently in the process of sprucing up my garage into a workshop, and I'm wondering whether I should insulate it or not. It's a single skinned 6x6 breeze block build with pitched roof, with a 3x3 wooden walled, flat roofed section added on. I'll be boarding up the loft for storage of lightweight items, and am considering making a ceiling to make things look tidier and cut down on areas for grinding dust to accumulate.
Insulation wise I figure I could insulate the pitched roof or just insulate the ceiling and fit a hatch of some sort to the "loft". Also not sure whether I should insulate the walls or not.
It does get pretty cold out there, but I've never had an insulated workshop before so I'm no stranger to layering up. I'm torn as to whether the expense is worth it. It'd have to be done with fairly basic level materials due to budget (so likely fibreglass wool).
Any opinions on whether insulation is worth it? Would just insulating the walls or roof be OK, or does the whole lot have to be done in reality?
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Jan 28, 2022 10:58:48 GMT
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With the price of energy if you are likely to ever want to heat it then I would add some insulation, If it's built of aerated concrete blocks they ae actually a pretty good insulator, the mortar joints are not so good but overall it still won't be too bad. I would do something with the roof and timber frame walls, Multifoil is about the easiest to work with and is not affected by damp but rockwall does a similar job.
Also no point insulating it if you have draughts so that would be the first thing to do.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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If it's a long term thing it should be worth it. I'd be weary of cutting off all ventilation tho. Your asking for condensation problems by doing that.
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bazzateer
Posted a lot
Imping along sans Vogue
Posts: 3,653
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Having worked in uninsulated garages at all times of the year (freezing in winter and an oven in summer) I would always insulate. My garage is fully insulated and I can work in it all year round in comfort. It's 30'x20' and all the insulation was purchased from eBay seller secondsandco for around £3-400.
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1968 Singer Chamois Sport
1972 Sunbeam Imp Sport
1976 Datsun 260Z 2+2
1998 Peugeot Boxer Pilote motorhome
2003 Rover 75 1.8 Club SE (daily)
2006 MG ZT 190+ (another daily)
2007 BMW 530d Touring M Sport (tow car)
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My garage is cavity wall insulated and centrally heated and the biggest single issue is the insulated roll up garage door , it lets all the cold in with terrible condensation running down and puddling on the floor. It's the weakest link
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My 'barn' is actually an old applestore, which is lined with cork, about 6" thick, and then rendered over.
Apart from the door I installed to enable me to get a car in, the whole barn is like this.
It holds a constant temperature regardless of the outside weather, and it's actually pretty good even when it's 30+ degrees outside. Ive never had a problem with condensation either, even when we've used a space heater in it.
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Badger
Part of things
Posts: 250
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I reckon I'll probably go for it then, just need to figure out the best way of doing it. And try to do it cheap!
I'm thinking I'll rockwool the angled roof rafters and use battening to stop it falling out. I'll then board up the crossbeams to create a loft to store light stuff. Will probably try to make a plasterboard ceiling, though that's mainly for looks and will be the first thing to go if I have to rationalise my plans.
For the walls I'm thinking of fitting the insulation just between the pillars with a dry-wall set up.
Will probably just insulate the roof of the wooden section; the walls are double skinned so should be reasonably good heat-flow wise.
I'll also be making a new garage door in the long run, will just have to insulate that and figure out how to insulate the metal one!
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mrbig
West Midlands
Semi-professional Procrastinator
Posts: 505
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Sounds good. Fancy documenting it on here? I'm planning to do mine too this year (brick built garage with standard link truss roof).
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1969 German Look Beetle - in progress
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,650
Club RR Member Number: 1
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Originally I was not going to bother insulating the walls etc.....Having spent all winter in the new workshop I can say it was money well spent!
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Badger
Part of things
Posts: 250
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Sounds good. Fancy documenting it on here? I'm planning to do mine too this year (brick built garage with standard link truss roof). I certainly will, though unfortunately a broken daily drive and some illness within the family means it may be put off for a while :/ |
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Mar 18, 2022 23:30:44 GMT
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My garage is cavity wall insulated and centrally heated and the biggest single issue is the insulated roll up garage door , it lets all the cold in with terrible condensation running down and puddling on the floor. It's the weakest link , I fitted a heavy duty plastic curtain behind my roller shutter door. It acts as a heat barrier, stops the warmth escaping when the door is opened, and stopped the condensation. Came from an eBay seller, has Velcro loops every foot or so along the top, hung over a scaffold pole. |
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Definitely insulate. I used seconds and co to source all of the insulation for the garage & it was not a hugely speedy option as a result. They have an eBay store & usually have various sizes of sheet/ batt & thicknesses available.
It makes it so much more pleasant to work in all year round. Yes, I still use a heater, but it’s quite small and only on when I’m working at the bench and generally in one place for a while. If I’m moving around a bit, I don’t really turn it on other than for the first 10 minutes or so just to take the edge off.
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ops
Kinda New
Posts: 1
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Jan 21, 2024 19:19:15 GMT
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I have a similar problem. I have a shed, not a garage and mine is made of wood. The roof is good and has recently been replaced. The walls are insulated with 50mm insulation board. It has a green house heater to try and keep the damp away. However, the floor is soaking wet and everything goes rusty. One green house heater in under my metal lathe, so that is good but my pillar drill and hand tools are suffering.
Did you find a good solution for your floor? Can you get a resin type sealant and then tile over it? Any help most appreciated.
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Jan 21, 2024 20:06:37 GMT
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I presume the floor is concrete. If its soaking I would look at the drainage and surrounding ground levels. Its pointless insulating or heating a wet space.
Is there much overhang on the roof and is there guttering?
Is the slab the highest point? Is it larger then the footprint of the shed and do you have drainage around?
How does the wooden shed sit on the base?
Is there any ventilation?
Putting in a resin sealant or tiling may help the situation but I would be more interested in fighting the cause.
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