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Oct 25, 2021 18:54:26 GMT
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Like all NA engine building it all kinds of revolves around what cams you're going to use. That's what I'd be looking at first. If it's a road friendly profile I can't seeing it pushing the limits of anything but you will need to end up at a different compression ratio etc so if the engine was built to rev you might find you've got a bit of work there. No brainer to go for megajolt or similar tho. You must be able to get a trigger wheel kit for these off the shelf I'd have thought? No messing about. I've only done megajolt which is pretty easy, you will need a trigger wheel, loads of off the shelf ones for the YB available, and I think the YBJ with the ford efi system might even have had one as standard. Once you have mounted the trigger wheel and crank sensor, it's just a matter of finding somewhere for the coil, edis and megajolt (in a dry area) then wiring them up (you can get pre wired looms) , to get it started you can just program the megajolt with something close to the standard dizzy, then it can be refined along with the fuelling on a rolling road. The only thing you will need to consider is whether you use tps or map load sensing, map is easy (just a pipe from the manifold), but with effectively 4 separate carbs it's usually best to use a tps somewhere on the throttle linkage.
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Last Edit: Oct 26, 2021 21:00:54 GMT by Rich: Type outside of quote box!
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,924
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Building an NA YBstealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Oct 25, 2021 20:17:16 GMT
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I mean, 100bhp/litre is pretty respectable. Yes it might not be the 200bhp/litre you'd get from a turbo version, or the 120-130bhp/litre you'd get from an NA Honda engine/Peugeot TU/BMW SXX, but it's a respectable figure nonetheless. It'd be interesting to see what the limiting factors are. Whether it's something hard-baked into the design, or an example of people applying tuning approaches from a different engine that don't work on the YB. Mainly asking because you see a lot of people who are used to turbo engines just hogging out inlet ports and killing velocity, and other bits and pieces like that. Although I suppose there's enough folks out there into Fords that most things will have been tried already with something as ubiquitous as the YB. It's not like the Rover 2600 where you can count the people who have tried anything with it on one hand, so no-one really knows the capabilities of it. I wonder what prevents them getting higher (again, 200hp out of an old-school 2.0l is pretty good going anyway!)... The ports are naff, they're relatively small and not a very nice run to the back of the valve. You then up with the Rover V8 effect where you end up having to run much more duration and overlap than other comparable engines to get the heads to work, so you drop low down torque. Compared to say a XE which is similar era they're worlds apart in useable N/A potential.
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16grit
Part of things
Posts: 214
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Oct 25, 2021 21:02:37 GMT
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If its for the road I would consider running a standalone ecu with modern ignition and fuelling, that will give the thing some flexibility and drivability back with the compression and cams you are thinking of. A standard Cosworth inlet plenum to get the injection sorted would probably be cheaper than the price of a weber manifold. With one of those you can get it on injection running Speeduino (DIY-EFI in the UK to buy off the shelf)which is the go-to cheap-as-chips standalone home-brew ecu that everyone and his dog is now using, meaning there's lots of info about. That can run full sequential off of just a distributor trigger, but a crank trigger would probably be easier. That way you get away from carbs (you are not going to get much change from 750 quid for a pair of good 45s these days, more for 48s) plus the cost of the custom distributor + advance you are going to need otherwise...If you want it to look a bit more traditional under the bonnet then a pair of chinese copy Jenvey 45 throttle bodies might give the desired look without breaking the bank...
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Oct 25, 2021 23:07:55 GMT
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The ports are naff, they're relatively small and not a very nice run to the back of the valve. You then up with the Rover V8 effect where you end up having to run much more duration and overlap than other comparable engines to get the heads to work, so you drop low down torque. Compared to say a XE which is similar era they're worlds apart in useable N/A potential. Interesting. That explains why they're not great in standard form. Is there difficulty in opening up the ports to be a decent size? Not enough alloy in the casting before you start hitting water jackets or things like that? I know part of the issue with the Rover V8 is the valves are offset towards one side of the cylinder, limiting the size of valve you can get in the chamber. Stuff like that is a pretty hard-baked limitation.
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Oct 26, 2021 20:58:15 GMT
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The standard ports are tiny . My brother drilled down the inlet ports with a 1” bit. It did break through in one place so was welded back up. From what I remember the exhaust port is curved all the way from the port entrance to the valve so would need to be hand ported
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Building an NA YBslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Small ports could well be a bonus for your carb'd road going engine imo.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,244
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Building an NA YBChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Oct 27, 2021 19:40:37 GMT
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How often do people use more than 200bhp on the road anyway other than short bursts? Not as much power just means you have it screaming more of the time 😁 Depends on the car. For me, more than you'd think . Albeit power curves also play a role in that.
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Oct 28, 2021 10:36:46 GMT
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If its for the road I would consider running a standalone ecu with modern ignition and fuelling, that will give the thing some flexibility and drivability back with the compression and cams you are thinking of. A standard Cosworth inlet plenum to get the injection sorted would probably be cheaper than the price of a weber manifold. With one of those you can get it on injection running Speeduino (DIY-EFI in the UK to buy off the shelf)which is the go-to cheap-as-chips standalone home-brew ecu that everyone and his dog is now using, meaning there's lots of info about. That can run full sequential off of just a distributor trigger, but a crank trigger would probably be easier. That way you get away from carbs (you are not going to get much change from 750 quid for a pair of good 45s these days, more for 48s) plus the cost of the custom distributor + advance you are going to need otherwise...If you want it to look a bit more traditional under the bonnet then a pair of chinese copy Jenvey 45 throttle bodies might give the desired look without breaking the bank... Knock off Jenveys? How have I not seen these yet! Off to ebay I go.
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Oct 28, 2021 11:37:16 GMT
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with the monster CR it could use a lot of cam and still be pretty friendly "off cam" But would probably need some help via mapped ignition at least or preferably full efi.
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Oct 31, 2021 17:24:15 GMT
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The manifold won't fit, I have looked at bike carbs / ITBs though, DanSTengineering do a good kit complete with an ecu and loom but it'll be nearly £2000 by the time it's set up
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