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Oct 22, 2021 21:56:02 GMT
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Don't worry, I'm smart enough not to go twiddling adjusters I don't know the nature of, especially on a system which has largely been behaving. Classic K-Jetronic on this, without a lot of the additional complexities of the later versions. It never ceases to surprise me how well the original K-Jet works when set up right given how simple it is, and how dependable it really is. It's astonishing how many car people's heads just about explode when they try to wrap their mind around the idea of fuel injection without ECU control. Checking the idle CO% is something I will do once we've got everything else sorted out, though my nose reckons it's not far off. Plus I can't remember where my crazy long Allen key for adjusting that is...have moved three times since I last used it I think! For nostalgic reasons, here's the system in the form I'm most familiar with seeing it.
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Last Edit: Oct 22, 2021 22:06:44 GMT by Zelandeth
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Oct 22, 2021 22:23:04 GMT
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I’ve had 3 cars with K-jet. All mid 80s VAG.
I like it. It just works and is actually really simple in principle. It does have a few foibles, which are mostly pretty easy to deal with. Does love the occasional pot of injector cleaner.
Saw a great vid on dismantling of it recently. Not suggesting you should do it, but gives great insight into how it works. Will put a link up when I’m at the PC.
The bypass valve can usually be washed out with carb cleaner or similar to remove the gak inside that is stopping the the sliding disc from sliding. Have one from a Mk1 GTi on my Vitesse and is still works great. Although they all look the same there are in fact many of them with different parts numbers and different characteristics.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,338
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1986 Mercedes S123 230TERich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Oct 23, 2021 11:31:20 GMT
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Oct 23, 2021 20:48:48 GMT
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Hopefully these are legible and useful to an extent Zelandeth. No vac routing though sadly. Definitely useful data in there, I'll need to compare the specs to the Saab data one day out of pure curiousity. -- -- -- Not a huge amount to report today really but we've made some incremental steps forward since yesterday. Firstly I did some research and figured out where the idle speed adjustment screw was - exactly as I expected, this one: Worth remembering that this was transferred over with the head, so not surprising it needed a slight tweak. I did make a very careful note of how far I moved it in case I needed to put it back where it started. A bit of vacuum hose shuffling has restored the fast idle function when engaging gears too, which is nice as it makes me less paranoid that the car is going to stall every time I stop. I'm pretty sure things aren't actually hooked up correctly, but I'll address that once I find a proper diagram. Finding a decent one that's not for a diesel has proven annoyingly tricky so far. Horrible attempt at video footage from a test run...I basically decided to do this on a whim and just wedged the camera under the passenger headrest. This really needed to be a good 6" higher up as it kind of feels like you're a five year old trying to see out without a booster seat. Figured you can watch or not as you wish! I will try to get something better at some point. The horrible metallic "clank" from the back now and then is a five litre bottle of brake cleaner in the boot. I thought being wedged in place it would stay quiet...I was wrong. Gives a decent snapshot of how the car is currently running - though the mic really doesn't catch the harsh engine note at the top end of the rev band. It starts sounding rough around 4k and gets progressively worse above that, so generally I am just trying to keep the revs down when I can. Second (which the car moves off in unless you boot it) into third is a little harsh about 80% of the time, far worse when cold. Third to fourth though is generally beautifully smooth, only really noticeable from the change in engine note. That's what I remember generally being the case with Merc autos when they're behaving...lazy but very refined gearbox where you hear rather than feel shifts. Had a decent poke around today and can't see any evidence of any fresh leaks of anything. Think at this point I need to get the next oil change done then give the engine bay another clean. Especially the front of it which I largely missed last time, so any future escape of oil is visible. Also sorted the windscreen washer pipe hanging off the bonnet. That was bugging me. Oh, and reattached this bit of trim that was shaken loose by the brutal gearchanges during the earlier test runs. I wasn't kidding about how harsh the jolts were! Oil change tomorrow, then we'll just cross our fingers and try to use the car as normal this coming week I think, and see what happens. Next up will be pulling the alternator from the Jag to see if I can sort it...I was loathe to do that until the Merc was mobile again though for obvious reasons! Was really hoping I'd have a replacement here to just swap out...however Hermes appear to have managed to lose it, so we'll be checking the condition of the brushes first. Fingers crossed it just needs a brush pack - the symptoms definitely fit at least.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Oct 24, 2021 19:17:09 GMT
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K-Jet content....
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Oct 24, 2021 20:30:20 GMT
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Cleaned up the area immediately around the SLS hydraulic reservoir, hopefully now the hose isn't sweating it will stay dry now. Somewhere that *wasn't* dry I spotted while walking past the car when taking the dog out for a walk earlier was the offside rear corner. I was initially slightly concerned that might be fuel (I know the tank does leak when absolutely full), but it turned out to be water. Looking down into the area where the jack etc is stowed showed the source. There was about 4" of standing water down there. Not screenwash either, so the rear washer bottle isn't to blame. A bit of flailing around blindly I found what felt like a drain hole, and after fishing out some pond scum several pints (I'm not kidding, there was quite a lot) of water came pouring out. Not entirely sure where that water had come from, but I'll definitely keep an eye on that. There's enough rust on this car as it is without it actively trying to dissolve from the inside out. I'd hoped to get an oil change done today but just ran out of time, it'll be done tomorrow. Fluid check revealed everything still seems to be where I'd left it, despite the weep from the radiator. I really do need to look at wiring in an override for the thermoswitch for the cooling fan, getting this far up the gauge before it cuts in just makes me way too anxious. I think this basically stems back from days driving cars where seeing the gauge going anywhere north of half was bad news...a large portion of the gauge being the normal range just makes me nervous.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,338
Club RR Member Number: 160
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1986 Mercedes S123 230TERich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Oct 24, 2021 23:07:08 GMT
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If the fan is doing what it’s meant to, leave it alone. That’s perfectly normal for Mercedes’. Even the new models run at strange points on the gauge that don’t look right to people that haven’t had much Mercedes’ experience. Plus, temperature Gauges are MEANT to swing slightly. I find it annoying when they are super damped on modern cars and just don’t move at all. I like to be able to see at what point the stat opens, and that the fan is cutting in and out. It is a monitoring device after all.
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misteralz
Posted a lot
I may drive a Volkswagen, but I'm scene tax exempt!
Posts: 2,497
Member is Online
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Oct 25, 2021 13:29:57 GMT
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Agree with Rich. Most moderns are programmed to sit bang on the middle under normal operation, whereas the live data will be considerably different. I understand that being used to that, then jumping back into something retro can massively trigger anxiety, though!
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Oct 25, 2021 16:34:35 GMT
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Think it's just down to the cars I've grown up with. The Metros my folks had always sat between 1/3 and 1/2 - unless they were on their way to an overheating event. Saabs always made me twitch as they used to get to nearly 3/4 on the gauge before the fan kicked in. If folks are all saying the displayed readings are fine I'll leave it be. The fan definitely cycles on and off, just there's no way to detect that from in the car really unless you blip the throttle and you can hear it. I imagine the temp responds to the fan a little slower than it really should too as the radiator really isn't in the best shape. It's on the list, but ain't cheap so is staying on the "once we know it's sticking around" list for now. We've also never definitively figured out what happened the day it died on me on the M1 the day I was collecting it...so I'm always a bit twitchy seeing it running that warm. Nothing much to report today other than that I put the HT lead cover back in place to get it out of the garage. In hindsight doing that *before* I went out would have been smart rather than doing it with the engine roasting hot. It's a fiddly thing to fit but does make things look tidier.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Mark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,097
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Oct 25, 2021 20:37:08 GMT
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Just to answer one of your questions, there is nothing wrong with it starting in second - a Mercedes quirk for comfort not speed!
Have you tried a fluid and filter change on the box? They're robust units and very very cheap to do a service on these days.
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Oct 25, 2021 23:01:26 GMT
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Agree with Rich. Most moderns are programmed to sit bang on the middle under normal operation, whereas the live data will be considerably different. I understand that being used to that, then jumping back into something retro can massively trigger anxiety, though! I've never owned a car where that's the case...in fact I've only owned one really modern car (Pug 107), and one of the first thing that ended up on my wish list there was an OBD2 heads up display there because it didn't even have a temperature gauge. The S123 really is a nice looking car... Despite all of the issues I've had lately - and the blowing exhaust, creaky rear end, squeaky heater fan, it really is a lovely thing to waft around in.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Oct 27, 2021 14:10:15 GMT
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They are indeed lovely looking machines...
It looks like things are just getting better and better with your glorious machine!!
Superb!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Oct 27, 2021 20:59:55 GMT
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Oil dropped from the S123. Pretty much the same as previously seen as I more or less expected. Looks like the filter has picked up a bit more detritus than previously, but I was expecting that following the head work. New filter element in. Really do appreciate this being a car it's dead easy to do an oil and filter change on without spilling a drop. I'll leave this in there for a couple of hundred miles and then do another check - hopefully we'll see at least a reduction in the amount of glitter then. Mileage so far for those who are still keeping a pool going on how far I get before the engine grenades itself and snaps the crankshaft in half.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Definitely on my list of "things you don't want to discover don't work half way through a journey" are windscreen wipers. Which I discovered today when I went to wash the windscreen on the S123 were indeed completely dead. As they worked fine yesterday my first suspect was a dodgy contact in the fusebox. Which on these cars is on the bulkhead in the engine compartment behind this little plastic cover. There's a knack to getting it in and out of the space around the brake servo but you soon learn it. I've plenty of prior experience with this type of fuse as Lada used them right up to the late 90s, and about 95% of electrical issues on those can usually be resolved by wiggling fuses. This seems rather less temperamental as the fuse holders are of several orders of magnitude better quality (brass rather than rusty pressed steel for one thing!), but they can still be a bit twitchy. Sure enough as soon as I touched the relevant fuse the wipers sprang to life. To took that one out, cleaned the contacts and the fuse and put it back in. Hopefully problem solved. Picked up a replacement for the mangled throttle return spring and a new PAS belt from the dealer today (previously picked up belt for that is the wrong size), and have also ordered a new heater control valve - meant to order that with the last batch but totally forgot. Dealer was a tenner cheaper than eBay there too. Something else I think I need is the seal for below the cap on the SLS reservoir cap (the return line runs into the cap) as we apparently have fluid seeping out of there still, evidenced by the film on the lid of the reservoir.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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If you are looking at fuses, then I'd suggest that you replace any of them that are not copper fused, with copper fused items.
The aluminium fused ones are awful and my W124 hates them! Now I have replaced them all with copper, issues are infrequent.
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Oct 29, 2021 11:34:07 GMT
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My dads 240TD had dodgy wipers (just stopped midway through a swipe of the screen) and it was only about 4/5 years old when we had it in the late 1980's...
Made journeys in the rain fun!!
I think it was solved but I was quite young then so can't quite remember the ultimate outcome (probably just wiggling the fuses)!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Nov 14, 2021 10:07:48 GMT
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Hi. I've just found this interesting thread. I have owned a S123 200T for the past 5 years and have gradually been going through the car's issues. I'll chip in if I can offer any advice and hopefully get some tips too. The leaking SLS reservoir is sometimes because the lid is not lined up correctly before the outer ring is tightened. The hard line connection to the lid can sometimes make lining it up difficult. It maybe the seal too though. I've not got through all the thread so may have missed you resolving the sagging rear headliner /speaker cover. I used a similar method to you of wetting the fibreboard. It reverted back quite quickly. The next go I used diluted PVA, and that solved it. I mounted some Alpine speakers (SPG-13C2) under that cover by making a bracket from some of these. I also have an Alpine sub which fits under the passenger seat (PWE-V80) The head unit is Alpine too and the sound is now as good as it's going to get without hacking the interior up.
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That looks incredibly clean! Lovely colour too, definitely up there as one of my faves, though I still feel the white drew me to mine.
I did get the rear headliner trim sorted, my solution was to rough the back of the board up and to go over it with resin, as I had a heap on hand from the Invacar bodywork.
Seems to have worked as it's still holding it's shape.
This car is never going to be anywhere near as tidy as yours. Not even close...unless I win the lottery and can throw unreasonable amounts of money at a body shop anyway!
Being on a Y plate I imagine you still have the older style instrument cluster? That and the gear lever are the two things which look oddly modern in the cabin of mine being a 1986 car.
Do wonder how close to the end of the line mine was given they stopped making the S123 in 86. Is there any way to figure that out from the VIN or anything?
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Last Edit: Nov 16, 2021 0:46:34 GMT by Zelandeth
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Last Edit: Nov 16, 2021 9:50:09 GMT by westbay
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mrbig
West Midlands
Semi-professional Procrastinator
Posts: 506
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Nov 17, 2021 11:47:01 GMT
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Just had some fun catching up on this thread. I, like others I'm sure, really feel your pain when its not going well! I really enjoy your threads whether it be cars or calculators... the process of problem and solving and finding ingenious solutions fascinates me! I hope the merc continues to put a smile on your face without stabbing you in the back at the same time! Bit of an odd request though, if the old camshaft is destined for the scrap bin, would I be able to take it off your hands please? I work for a small company that manufactures camshafts and it would be very useful for a "what not to do" technical bulletin. Edit: I may be able help with some vacuum routing drawings if you still need them but please PM if you do. I'd rather not post them on a public forum as I suspect they will have some copyright on them and I'm absolutely certain Mercedes have better lawyers than me
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Last Edit: Nov 17, 2021 13:14:35 GMT by mrbig
1969 German Look Beetle - in progress
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