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The carpet set came from Auto Custom Carpets, it arrived in roughly the right shape and size, needed some trimming, but was fairly easy to work with. The whole car in their 'premium' finish was about $380 the 'premium' finish isn't the most premium thing you have ever experienced though but it felt like the best option over the cheaper alternative with a £30 price difference or so haha Sniper, somewhere around the £700 mark and I would be happy. Will have a brand new screen/dash, new wideband O2 sensor, installation kit for this, temp sensor and wiring kit to go with it, might even have a new 2 barrel Holley to 2 barrel adaptor plate that can go with it too. Basically as everything is universal between the kits, when my new one arrives I will leave all my current wiring in place and all the new accessories that arrive can be re-homed with the 2 barrel body. My new kit should arrive in the next couple weeks and then the 2 barrel will be boxed up and sat on the shelf, so don't feel rushed if you don't need/want it just yet as it won't be going anywhere else Just had a quick look at the carpet place and to my surprise to actually some for Eliza. What style of carpet did you have in the end? Loop,cut pile etc? That is a very good price for the sniper. I maybe dropping you a message about it later in the year, please don't hold it on my behalf but it's certainly useful to know where one is. If it's gone, it's gone  Yeah went for the 'original material loop' with the added backing. I don't have any pics of it going in other than after I had trimmed the edges down slightly:  Then for the rest of the afternoon there was a strict 'no shoes' policy that was initiated by my mrs as she helped me fit it...  Only took an hour to carry out some light trimming and fit everything back in to it, so I would be happy to recommend them based on my experience. No worries at all on the Sniper, just drop me a message if/when. |
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Rust in your original box will be from the cooling tube in the bottom of the radiator letting water into the trans. If you have not changed the rad then DO NOT run the cooling lines through the rad again, buy a new trans cooler rad and use that instead. That's interesting to know and makes alot of sense. Luckily I've got a new rad to go in, and if will be fitted before gearbox gets any fluids |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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[ That actually looks really good, really like the colour to. Did you have to pay import tax etc? |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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yeah can't escape import, but for larger items shipping is often where savings can be made. speaking to people like Top Speed Automotive may be a good idea.
Just let them know part numbers or spec of what you want and get them to give you a quote.
They often have large containers coming in from the US so savings can be made on shipping. Decent guys and well worth a chat if the 'list price' comes back a little scary.
Worth a phone call however as emails don't seem to be their strong point for enquiries haha
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yeah can't escape import, but for larger items shipping is often where savings can be made. speaking to people like Top Speed Automotive may be a good idea. Just let them know part numbers or spec of what you want and get them to give you a quote. They often have large containers coming in from the US so savings can be made on shipping. Decent guys and well worth a chat if the 'list price' comes back a little scary. Worth a phone call however as emails don't seem to be their strong point for enquiries haha Cheers for the advice, will give them a call near the time  |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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Rust in your original box will be from the cooling tube in the bottom of the radiator letting water into the trans. If you have not changed the rad then DO NOT run the cooling lines through the rad again, buy a new trans cooler rad and use that instead. That's interesting to know and makes alot of sense. Luckily I've got a new rad to go in, and if will be fitted before gearbox gets any fluids Yep, water in a trans will kill it in next to no time as all the clutches are made with water based adhesive. It's cheap insurance to use a separate trans cooler rad anyway - having said that OEM use the pipe through the rad without issues. |
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Mark, I know where that story about the adhesive came from, it's not true. The clutches and bands use a thermosetting adhesive.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Mar 20, 2022 17:20:52 GMT
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Mark, I know where that story about the adhesive came from, it's not true. The clutches and bands use a thermosetting adhesive. Where did it come from? |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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Mar 20, 2022 17:37:15 GMT
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Some more progress made today, a sudden social life and illness (probably caught from said social life) has hindered me some what and my (self imposed) deadline is looking less and less likely. Oh well, can always make new deadlines. Have come across two hiccups with the replacement intake manifold. It's a year newer than the original one, so the temp sensor is a different size and it didn't come with a fitting for the heater pipe. And the original has seized in place, so I can't swap it over So they are on order. I finally cleaned up the last of the rocker arms/cylinder head. Very pleased with how it's come up   One evening during the week I made up some carb to manifold gaskets and clean up the carb riser ( not sure on its actual name if I'm honest)     Quickly installed those   Then I refitted the thermostat Housing, and I even put In a thermostat, as there wasn't one previously. No pics unfortunately but a healthy amount of sealant was used, just to be safe. With all that now back together, there was no reason not to install the rad. So I did.  I used an existing hole on the bottom left corner and drilled a new hole at the top left. I can only assume I'm missing some sort of shroud or fairing as it doesn't quite meet up...   I will make some brackets up to reach in the future, but for now, it'll do. Curious to know what I am missing thought. The original rad was held in even worse. Slowly coming together. Next job is probably going to be fitting the Carb for the last time and figuring out how the throttle linkage, vacuum lines and kick down bits go together because guess who wasn't smart enough to take lots of pics..... |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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Mar 20, 2022 19:57:49 GMT
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I'd fit a flat panel of ally or steel to bridge the gap, you want to close it off to make the air flow through the rad as it will take the easy option of flowing through that gap otherwise.
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Mar 27, 2022 16:36:51 GMT
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I'd fit a flat panel of ally or steel to bridge the gap, you want to close it off to make the air flow through the rad as it will take the easy option of flowing through that gap otherwise. That is really good advice, thank you. And it's exactly what I did Started of with a CAD file   Transfer to metal and drill holes on one side  Draw on rough outline for the area to be pushed out Start hammering     I admit I'm no tonybmw but I'm happy enough with the out come. Fits up nicely   And as a final touch, slather it in black paint.   Turns out the new rad I bought is actually incorrect. A correct size one shouldn't require any brackets. But the new one I have is the same the one I took out. So fingers crossed she doesn't overheat. Should be ight |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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Apr 22, 2022 16:37:53 GMT
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I spent the last couple of weekends chipping away at this. Figured out the throttle linkage and kick down. No idea if it's how the factory would have done it but it all seems to work as it should  Next I put in all my fluids, ATF, engine and coolant. Found a couple of coolant leaks, most from clamps just needing a nip to tighten. One leak however not as simple  That freeze plug has decided to become religious (it's holey) Wanting to test the gearbox and drive it around the block. I repaired it with some chemical metal  Which worked.. With all the fluids in the car, I attempted to start it, having had the dizzy out multiple times, I wasn't expecting it to fire first time. And I was right, she didn't, she didn't she even crank. Which was annoying. I had a strong suspicion it was the neutral safety switch, so I swapped it out for my spare one. That didn't fix it either, so I by passed it. First try starting after bypassing and she cranked to life. But only cranked, took much investigation and playing with the dizzy before she actually game to life. With the car running, I tried to move under her own power. And she did, all 20cm down the slopes drive before I put the brakes on (atleast they work) I checked the gearbox oil with the engine idling and it was low (dipstick was dry) So I ordered some more. |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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Apr 23, 2022 16:04:33 GMT
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This gearbox is kicking my behind big time Actually at this point the whole car is. So I topped up the gearbox fluid yesterday with the hope that would solve all my issues. It didn't. With the gearbox fluid at the right level with the engine idling, the gearbox wasn't doing anything. Then starter motor started playing up, can hear the solenoid click, but doesn't want to crank. So I swapped In my spare own. Whilst doing this I noticed a steady and consistent drip. Turns out my temp freeze plug repair was very temporary, as the next time I started the car, it gushed like no tomorrow. At that point, very disappointed and annoyed I called it a day. And put out a help post on the c4 transmissions pages. 2 likely issue I was told that it might be was either I had installed the valve body wrong when I reinstalled it or I didn't seat the torque converter correctly when installing and have ruined the pump. So a new day dawned and armed with some fresh information. I set to looking at the possible issues. First of I reapplied some fresh chemical metal to the holy freeze plug. New plugs are on order but I can't test anything with it spraying out water Gearbox wise, I began with the possibly miss aligned selector in the valve body. There is a special place reserved In hell for whom ever designed the sump with out a drain. I did not enjoy the ATF shower I had, the wind picking up did not help.  No pictures of removing the valve body unfortunately,hands were to sticky. But I reassembled it and am very confident I got everything where it belongs.  With that reassembled and topped I checked to see if the pump was working.   Going from the mess that was made in a very short amount of time. I'm gunna hazard a guess and say the pump was good. Putting In some more fluid to replace what was pumped out, I tried it again and for about 30 seconds. I thought it was working, The passenger rear wheel was spinning with what seemed like actual torque. Changed gear and then back to nothing. And then the replacement starter motor began playing up and now the car doesn't even crank Very much not enjoying the car atm and am really really really not wanting to pull the gearbox out again. Anyone wanna buy a ford? |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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hey man,
That absolutely sucks! Hate cocking about with gearboxes and I feel your pain with the non-drain plug pans on the C4.
That stacked on top of how expensive the Type-F oil is for those boxes, it gets even more annoying!
So, before pulling the box, let's try and just start with the simple to test stuff first.
You mention that when you fired it up and put it in to gear, the rear wheel was spinning...
What gear was it in on the gear selector when it was spinning?
Will the gear selector go in to all positions nicely?
P/R/N/2/1 ?
Disconnect the linkage from the gearbox, does the gear selector on the gearbox allow the box to go in to all gears nicely?
If so, with the linkage still disconnected, can you run the car up, and manually select gears using the using the gear selector on the gear box?
Do wheels spin in any of these gears? If so, how does it behave in each position?
Just worth checking this to make sure someone hasn't fitted a reverse/manual valve body or something in the box, which might mean that your linkage up in the car isn't doing what you expect it to be doing down at the box.
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Apr 25, 2022 19:51:46 GMT
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hey man, That absolutely sucks! Hate cocking about with gearboxes So diagnosis wise. I stuck the car safely in the air, and whilst under the car with the gearlinkage from the car disconnected, I flicked through the gears manually using the selector that sticks out of the box. So at a minimum, I no the coloumn selector isn't causinge issues (yet). Went through every position multiple times, leaving it a few seconds so it had a chance to do something Before I redid the valve body, It didn't lock the prop in park. however now it does. Annoyingly I didn't even think to look at which gear it was in when I saw the wheel turning. I got a video of it but don't think I can upload it here And you are spot on about the expensive ATF fluid. I was very careful not to spill any. |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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Hmmm ok, so have you repeated the experiment now that the valve body is back in and the parking pawl is working as expected?
Does it feel like the box is loading up at all when you move the selector or does it just feel like an empty shell with zero activity inside?
They take a bucket ton of fluid too, so it might be worth running it up to temp, cycle through all the gears, check the fluid and keep checking the fluid.
Was the torque converter pre filled before you fitted it? They can suck in an insane amount of fluid too.
Any idea how much fluid you have put in so far?
I think iv'e said 'fluid' enough times now haha
Really hope you get to the bottom of this mate
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Hmmm ok, so have you repeated the experiment now that the valve body is back in and the parking pawl is working as expected? Does it feel like the box is loading up at all when you move the selector or does it just feel like an empty shell with zero activity inside? They take a bucket ton of fluid too, so it might be worth running it up to temp, cycle through all the gears, check the fluid and keep checking the fluid. Was the torque converter pre filled before you fitted it? They can suck in an insane amount of fluid too. Any idea how much fluid you have put in so far? I think iv'e said 'fluid' enough times now haha Really hope you get to the bottom of this mate Yeah,I cycled through the gears after the reinstalling the valve body a second time. To me it doesn't feel like changing the gears is doing anything. With the old box, when you put it in a moving gear, it sort of jolted a little bit, like something engaged. But for all I know it was doing that because it was faulty. I think atm I'm around 8.5 litres in the box. The converter was but in pretty much dry. But it was idling for a good 10mins atleast (coolant temp reached operating temp) and the level never dropped below the limits on the dipstick when it was at temp. Currently very much stuck between a rock and a hard place on with my next move with this car. Appreciating the help and support though  |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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Apr 26, 2022 10:27:12 GMT
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ok, sounds like that's about right on the fluid quantity. Although with a completely dry convertor, I'm not too sure how long running it would need to fill it... hmmmm
Are you getting all 5 positions on the selector?
Got to be something simple if at one point you did get some drive out of it.
Haven't got your handbrake on hard whilst testing are you? haha That's the sort of thing I would end up doing after trying too many different things.
Without the car running, do the wheels spin freely with the car in neutral?
Going back through your thread though, what is the wiring all about that comes out the gearbox? Is that a neutral safety switch? I think they came on the AOD transmission didn't they? I might be wrong here of course. I guess if it is a NSS then it won't have any effect on the gearbox operation, only the car starting. Hmmmm
Did your torque converter come with the gearbox or is that from your original box?
You also mentioned that you needed to fit the valve body, was this not done by the people who rebuilt the box?
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Apr 26, 2022 11:06:19 GMT
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ok, sounds like that's about right on the fluid quantity. Although with a completely dry convertor, I'm not too sure how long running it would need to fill it... hmmmm Are you getting all 5 positions on the selector? Got to be something simple if at one point you did get some drive out of it. Haven't got your handbrake on hard whilst testing are you? haha That's the sort of thing I would end up doing after trying too many different things. Without the car running, do the wheels spin freely with the car in neutral? Going back through your thread though, what is the wiring all about that comes out the gearbox? Is that a neutral safety switch? I think they came on the AOD transmission didn't they? I might be wrong here of course. I guess if it is a NSS then it won't have any effect on the gearbox operation, only the car starting. Hmmmm Did your torque converter come with the gearbox or is that from your original box? You also mentioned that you needed to fit the valve body, was this not done by the people who rebuilt the box? The wires are for the nss switch and the reverse light. The nss switch has been bypassed because apparently they needed calibrating but its not something that would effect the gearbox itself. Reverse light does work The torque converter came within the gearbox and should be a matched pair.(key word is should) I had to drop the valve body to change the selector arm because the one on the new box was completed different to the one on the original box. Original was coloum shift New box was floor shift (I believe) I've been told the torque converter is filled first with the engine running. But how true that is I don't no. I'm hesitant to just keep adding fluid because A, it's not saying it needs it B, if I put to much in, I've got to drain it, which I really really don't want to do again (ever) The handbrake was Defo disengaged, as I was turning the wheels by hand, as a temp thought of madness had me thinking perhaps the diff had gone. |
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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Apr 26, 2022 12:12:09 GMT
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I know it's not what you want to hear, but I'd take the box out again, take it back to the box people & get them to
A) check it over
B) weld in a drain plug in the sump.
I will fix most things but gearboxes are best left to the specialists.
If you have no drive it means there is no fluid pressure in the box. This could be you have missed something in the valve body when you dropped it out (missing check ball) or the convertor is not fitted on the pump properly.
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