gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
|
Sept 26, 2021 21:34:52 GMT
|
We decided that this years main holiday was going to be a staycation - partly due to covid, partly down to budget. I'd been wittering on about doing the North Coast 500 ever since buying the 944 about...... 7 years ago? This seems like a perfect opportunity, however we can't go to Scotland without the mountain bikes, and the big tent, so that rules out taking an MX5! The BMW is our only sensibly sized car in the fleet but needs a bit more TLC before a ~2k mile, fully loaded trip! The downside was, just because of the way things worked out, I only had 3 evenings to get it ship shape.
First up, finally an oil and filters service. This would generally be the first thing I did on a new car but I've got thoroughly distracted by the suspension on this one. Cabin air filters are nicely accessible and in the engine bay, two new Mahle activated carbon cabin filters: For the oil I broke out a little Lidl special 12v oil pump for the first time - I've had it for ages and never used it before:
Wasn't particularly fast, but certainly convenient, however I wondered how much oil it left in the sump, so jacked it up and drained it from the sump plug too... The sump plug managed to give me another ~150ml of oil... Probably not too bad to leave in, but not sure I'll be relying on the pump for future services. Oil filter and fuel filter swapped out with no issues and refilled with Millers oil.
Service done, next item on the agenda is the screen wash. Tucked away behind the drivers side front wheel arch liner:
The three pumps, left to right, are for the headlight washers, windscreen and rear screen. There is another pump up in the engine bay with the concentrated screen wash tank that 'preloads' the windscreen with concentrated washer fluid before a wash. A quick test of swapping pumps around reveals that the windscreen pump is dead. For the time being I swapped the rear screen and windscreen pumps around. I had a go, but I don't think I can get into the pump without breaking the outer casing, so new pump ordered...
While I was in the area, I couldn't ignore that grotty sill. I cleared out the (surprisingly bone dry) mud from behind it and got the knotted wheel out... At first I didn't think I was even going to have a hole...
Ah well. The above is after a couple of rounds of Bilt Hamber Deoxy Gel rust remover. I've used this before and really didn't rate it, however it was high twenties ambient temperature this time round and it did a great job! I did what I could for the inside of the panel - unfortunately I was really pushed for time. As a result it was a bit of a bodge job - ideally it needs a new bit of metal, but I'll have slowed it down at least. I gave it two coats of BH Hydrate 80, then over the next two evenings a smear of filler, primer, base coat titanium grey from Jawel, and finished with 2k aerosol clearcoat. Not overly happy with the result, although it looks worse in this LED lit photo than it does in sunlight...
I'm always interested to see how long these sort of repairs last. For now it's improved, and on the bodwork todo list! I gave the inside of the sill a spray down with ACF-50 to help any rust spots I may have missed.
While I was on that side of the car I replaced the rearmost control arm in my quest to silence the front knocks...
As you can see in the picture, the ball joint presses into an insert, that then presses into the knuckle. When I knocked the old arm out, the insert came with it. Had all sorts of fun trying to get it off, until I realised it probably just needed a squeeze... Sure enough, a whack to it's side and it popped right off. New Meyle HD arm went in with no issues, but it made zero difference to the clonking. Old balljoint moved freely but wasn't knocking, however the boot was pretty perished.
When driving the car, the most noticeable noise is the turbo. I've never been sure if this is the turbo itself, or due to having a big leak in the exhaust flexi just down from the turbo. The new section of exhaust - downpipe with cats and two flexis - has been sitting in the garage for a while, so the second evening was dedicated to that. I had hoped to get on to guibo and transmission mounts at the same time, but that didn't work out - a combination of awkward access and typically seized exhaust bolts had me finishing just the exhaust swap at 1am
There's the turbo, the downpipe finally off! The good news is, there is no play in it at all. The not so good news is I can feel a slight notchiness when I spin it.
And here's the downpipe that came off:
Not only are both flexis blowing, there are a few bits of blobby weld around from prior fixes, the mount in the middle of the picture is cracked in two were it mounts to the upper cat, and the welds near the turbo flange are all cracked... I very nearly just replaced the flexis, I'm glad I had a new section ready to go!
The ARB needed unbolting to give access for the exhaust job, so I replaced the inner ARB bushes while I was there - the old ones didn't look too bad, they weren't loose, but I had the new Meyle ones handy.
All that took far longer than it should have, and I finally got in at 1am. Unfortunately I needed the car for work the next day or I'd have just left it for the night! The bad news - absolutely no difference in turbo noise. The good news - my front suspension clunk has all but disappeared! I don't know if it was the ARB bushes, or the broken exhaust mount that I could hear knocking over bumps, but I'll call it a win.
Last night I had to fix up the car I gave up on doing the guibo, I'd have to live with the powertrain clonk for a little longer - and I suspect it's bigger than just the guibo anyway. Safety wise, I wanted to replace the ageing rear brake flexi lines I'd noticed while doing the subframe bushings. Old pair out:
Yep, glad not to be relying on those any more! New TRW pair in:
At which point I opened the bonnet to check the brake fluid level before bleeding them and realised I didn't have a clue where the master cylinder or reservoir were hiding! After a quick google it turns out they're hidden away underneath the drivers cabin air filter. It all unclips nicely and access is actually very easy to access - and I cleared a load of composted leaves out of the airbox water drain while I was there, it was completely blocked.
A quick bleed later and that's brakes all sorted.
Next up was a rattle that was doing my head in... a while back I think I said the sunroof is rattling - and it is, despite my taking it all apart and cleaning and greasing everything. A little while back I was looking at the rear interior lights and realised that the lenses for the reading lamps had been pushed into the light housing on both sides - presumably by a kid in the past. When you knock them they gave a really annoying rattle...
One broken lens:
Taken apart and back in place, one of the plastic clips that secures it is broken.
I dabbed a little shoe goo - a clear, strong, ruberised adhesive that I had to hand - around the edge and put it all back together, then did exactly the same for the other side. Turns out these were responsible for most of the higher pitched rattles I could hear! I wish I'd fixed them the moment I noticed them. The sunroof does rattle a tiny bit, but it's not overly noticeable.
So... that was three evenings of not getting nearly as much as I wanted done! But Thursday evening we loaded up the car with two bikes, tents and two weeks worth of camping gear, and left for Annan, just north of Carlisle as our first stop straight after work on Friday.
For the next post I'll sort through photos and find some pictures of stunning scenery being obscured by an old grey barge (or my grandpa car as my mates have dubbed it)
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 27, 2021 8:20:06 GMT by gryphon
|
|
|
gte86
Part of things
Posts: 611
|
|
Sept 27, 2021 17:00:55 GMT
|
Some cracking work there. My rear brake hoses are similarly bad.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 29, 2021 8:34:07 GMT
|
We have done the NC500 twice in the last year. Have lots of fun. Take the road to Applecross.
|
|
|
|
gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
|
Sept 29, 2021 10:47:00 GMT
|
Some cracking work there. My rear brake hoses are similarly bad. Thanks! The improvements are all adding up... It's turning into quite a nice car. I'm looking at the cosmetic work you're doing to yours though and thinking I need to start looking at similar. Not sure if I want to go down the M-Sport route or not... Would like some 17" wheels, but also don't want the decrease in ride quality. We have done the NC500 twice in the last year. Have lots of fun. Take the road to Applecross. This is actually all being posted in hindsight - we spent two weeks in Scotland and got back last Friday. Definitely had a lot of fun and the applecross pass was a must I'm not going to do a full write up for the trip, but it was excellent. Here is a rough outline with some RR suitable pictures - because nobody else will want to see pictures of scenery + barge! We spent a few days in the Cairngorms driving and biking, camping near Aviemore. Spent a fair amount of time driving the snow roads with stunning views. I'd always thought the Cairngorms would be more craggy than they actually are - They're more akin to the Brecon Beacons on Steroids I think. This was just past Balmoral... we stopped at a little eco cafe not far from Balmoral - before we realised how close to it we were - and suddenly found ourselves surrounded by very proper English accents and a car park full of black L405 Range Rovers which felt very out of place. The coffee, hot chocolate and cakes were excellent though. While we were there someone pulled up in an excellent car for the local roads though: Odd to think I have the same engine in the MX5... albeit missing a turbo or two! It made excellent noises. Next we headed up to Inverness, doing a loop around Loch Ness on the way (the small road on the East side is FAR better for views than the main road on the left side) and doing the NC500 anti-clockwise, stopping at Golspie on the first day for the Wildcat mountain biking trail for some awesome views and a bit of sunburn - as well as an excellent technical rocky decent on the bikes. First night of the NC500 was camping at Dornach with amazing white sands blue sea beaches - not what I'd been expecting to be honest.Β Second night was up to John o Groats and Dunscaby Head. The campsite at JoG is excellent, you pitch up a few meters from the sea The next day was on to Dunnet Head- the actual most Northerly part of the UK (JoG is the furthest point from Lands End). Not much to see there, but some nice pictures slightly further down the coast around Dunnet Beach. Once you get past JoG the road becomes primarily single track with lots of potholes - I swear I'll never complain about roads in the Midlands again! Not that I really used to.... but at times I wondered if I really would want to do this in a car with stiff suspension and a low ride height. There were also lots of campers to get stuck behind. On the singltrack sections, there are lots of passing places, and they're actually very well placed - for the whole trip I think I only had to reverse three times to let other cars past. The third night was at Sango Sands, with some rather stunning views from the tent! Shame about the motorhomes though.... This is the beach that the campsite overlooks... From here on in, the scenery just gets better and better. Β Bumped into EVO doing a road trip in a much younger, probably slightly quicker 5 series! And a rather entertaining panorama that google managed to put together from three photos that weren't supposed to be a panorama at all! The next night was spent at Applecross, just managed to book the camp site in time - lots of people were being turned away. Up the North side of Applecross pass the following morning: That was steeeeep - I'm impressed the handbrake held it! It felt like I spent more time dodging potholes than anything else over the Applecross pass, then met this little beauty at the top... Honestly not sure I'd particularly enjoy that road in the elise - between the potholes, stopping constantly to let people past and going slow behind all the campers, there's not much space to enjoy the driving. The driver enthusiastically told me that it was the ideal car for the road though, so he was enjoying! Maybe I'm getting old and grumpy. And back down the other side. The view really was spectacular. This was more or less the end of the NC500, as instead of heading back to Inverness we headed over the bridge to Skye and spent a few days exploring there, before heading back South East to Peebles and Glentress for a few days of excellent biking around Glentress and Innerleithen - and swapping the tent and roll matt for a glamping pod with a mattress - which after 13 nights camping, generally at a different campsite each night, was very very welcome! Overall we did a bit over 2,500 miles in the two weeks, and to my relief the car behaved pretty much perfectly. Now that I've spent a decent amount of time sitting in them, I've found the seats to be perfectly comfortable once I'd found the right position for them which is nice. Ride wise, up and down the motorways the car is very pleasant. The last minute pre trip work has fixed the last of the proper suspension clonks, but the car does have a bit of a shake on broken road surfaces... A shake is often caused by too much fore-aft movement in a wheel, so I'm going to have to take a look at the rear lower control arm bushes I think. Rough roads also bring a few cabin rattles to the fore, but none I wasn't already aware of - they just got on my nerves a bit more than normal! The only new discovery about the car was reversing up a steep hill - the shake and noise with the engine under load in reverse is dreadful, and rather embarrassing! My first guess is engine mounts, as they're being loaded in the opposite direction to normal driving, and under higher load than during engine braking. At one point on the trip - just before we hit all the singletrack - it was reporting a trip average of 45.5MPG too, which was the highest to date. Steep single track roads quickly brought this down again though, ending the trip at a pretty decent 43.4mpg. Not bad for a 3 liter 2 tonne barge.Β Overall, an absolutely excellent trip.
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 29, 2021 22:09:26 GMT by gryphon
|
|
tom13
Part of things
Posts: 571
|
|
Sept 29, 2021 12:25:50 GMT
|
Looks an ace trip and car looks amazing as well.
Had you been inners and Golfie before? Ace isn't it.
Where in the Midlands are you?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 29, 2021 12:34:09 GMT
|
I have just enjoyed reading your thread from the start - many thanks for sharing and looks like the barge is in safe and capable hands π
Off to plan my NC500 trip now π
Bookmarked.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Iβve been following this thread with interest, mainly because Iβm a big fan of older BMWs, but also because I own an β04 E46 330d Touring with the M57 engine. Inspired by your service works with the CCV et al, I decided to do the same on my own car, as well as giving it an oil change. Iβve owned it since April and hadnβt yet done anything other than replacing the front discs and pads to cure an awful shudder under heavy braking. Anyway, Iβm glad I did as the air filter was absolutely filthy. Definitely not been changed for a good while! Keep up the good work! Matt
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 6, 2021 21:42:13 GMT by mattTR6
1972 Triumph 2000 β first car, long-term daily driver and all-rounder, done 65,000 miles in my ownership. Has a tuned 2500 motor and is used for a lot of long-distance touring events 1972 Triumph TR6 βΒ US import, returned to the road in 2019 for the first time since '85! 2004 BMW 330d Touring β general hack, much mapped up goodness
|
|
|
|
|
Very nice beemer. I had a 525d saloon and a 530d touring, Both manual cars. By far the most trouble I had was with the touring. I had to do most of the things you have done with your car on both but on the touring the suspension and split rear hatch were the pains. There is a module underneath the touring spare wheel on the floor that gets knackered with water ingress, it cost me many 100s to fix and is the cause of many false dash lights and running issues. Unbolt it and raise it up as it will save you problems with false alarms and battery problems. Great choice of car though.
|
|
|
|
gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
|
|
Looks an ace trip and car looks amazing as well. Had you been inners and Golfie before? Ace isn't it. Where in the Midlands are you? Thanks! I've done Inners and Glentress a few times before - and the rest of the 7 staines. I've yet to ride Golfie, it's always felt like I have limited time up there and it's better to spend a day riding marked trails than getting lost on secrets. Do need to give it a go though - apparently there's another set of trails just down the valley too? I'm near Stratford. I have just enjoyed reading your thread from the start - many thanks for sharing and looks like the barge is in safe and capable hands π Off to plan my NC500 trip now π Bookmarked. Thanks - do it! But maybe wait for the weather.. Iβve been following this thread with interest, mainly because Iβm a big fan of older BMWs, but also because I own an β04 E46 330d Touring with the M57 engine. Inspired by your service works with the CCV et al, I decided to do the same on my own car, as well as giving it an oil change. Iβve owned it since April and hadnβt yet done anything other than replacing the front discs and pads to cure an awful shudder under heavy braking. Anyway, Iβm glad I did as the air filter was absolutely filthy. Definitely not been changed for a good while! Keep up the good work! Matt That filter is BLACK! At least you have the vortex style CCV Since buying the car I'd expected to start seeing E39's everywhere, as you do... I've seen a few nice E46s but only 1 other E39. I see more 944s! Very nice beemer. I had a 525d saloon and a 530d touring, Both manual cars. By far the most trouble I had was with the touring. I had to do most of the things you have done with your car on both but on the touring the suspension and split rear hatch were the pains. There is a module underneath the touring spare wheel on the floor that gets knackered with water ingress, it cost me many 100s to fix and is the cause of many false dash lights and running issues. Unbolt it and raise it up as it will save you problems with false alarms and battery problems. Great choice of car though. Thanks I've got a pair of aerosus airbags for the rear... not sure if it's the bags leaking, but they both look on the perished side. Touch wood, my split hatch is working fine at the mo! Is it the compressor under the spare wheel? I'd not heard about lifting it up before, I'll take a look. Thanks for the hint.
After getting back from the trip a really loud clunking came back somewhere in the back of the car. It drove me nuts for a couple of days. I decided to try putting the seats back down to see if the noise disappeared - only to find the left hand one wasn't properly latched! Re-latched that and the car is now the quietest it's been since I bought it. Also it's telling me that I'm getting 48mpg on my commute, which seems improbable, but nice if it's true.
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 8, 2021 7:52:53 GMT by gryphon
|
|
tom13
Part of things
Posts: 571
|
|
|
You need to do Golfie. We were there the weekend.
Trails are easy to find and its way better than inners and Glentress. We also did Thornilee which is what you may be thinking. Yair is a little bit further down the road as well.
|
|
|
|
|
gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
|
Nov 14, 2021 17:16:22 GMT
|
The first MOT with a new old car is always a bit worrying - worrying enough that I actually managed to book it a few weeks before expiry rather than my usual last minute approach! I was mostly worried about emissions, as it's still a bit of a smokey beast when pushed... Thankfully it aced the emissions test with a 0.2, well below the 1.2 limit. The rest of the MOT went pretty well, no rust concerns and all the old advisories that have been plaguing the car for a few years under the previous owners have been fixed. It passed easily, although did pick up a couple of new advisories, one for a slightly twisted brake flexi that rubs against the strut at full lock, and a second because the prop shaft flex joint (aka guibo) is shot... very very shot. I'd twisted the prop to check it in the past, and as I've said before I knew it needed replacing, a new one's been waiting in the garage almost as long as I've owned the car. I hadn't realised quite how bad it was though - we could get about 30 degrees of play in it!! That's just shifted right to the top of my priority list. As Sunday was dry and not to cold, I've not got much of an excuse to avoid it... There's the culprit. What stopped me last time I attempted this was that I couldn't get to the nuts on the other side of the bolts in the picture... This time I managed to dig up a short 18mm spanner that just about did the job. Once all the bolts are undone the prop shaft needs to move rearwards to allow removal of the guibo. This involved dropping the exhaust, removing a large heat shield (no snapped bolts to my amazement) then unbolt the centry prop shaft bearing. I had fully expected this to be knackered... actually it felt OK. Possibly a tiny amount of play, but it spun smoothly and quietly, so nothing urgent. With the prop dropped I could pull out the old guibo... each metal insert was loose, rattling and spinning. Definitely overdue a replacement. Here it is next to the Meyle HD replacement. The manual cars don't use the same one as the far more common auto cars, they actually share it with the later E61 auto cars, which created a bit of confusion when ordering it.
Once the prop and guibo are out, you have excellent access to the gear shifter, which is pretty sloppy, and I've had a bush kit for it knocking about for almost as long as I've had the new guibo. Looks like I have a slight oil leak around the shift selector too. The shifter assembly came out after a bit of a fight. At which point I found out that the bushing kit I had bought wasn't the right one for the car. I'd also thought it was a genuine BMW one, but if feels very aftermarket. Having spent almost Β£100 on it, I think I got done, but bought it too long ago to expect any redress. The one bit that did fit was the nylon ball joint cage, and it was far tighter than this old manky one: Everything got thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with red rubber grease as I couldn't find my silicone grease anywhere... Back in the car the play in the shifter hasn't really been reduced, but the new ball joint cage has added a little more friction in the system and it feels better as a result - no idea how long that will last though! No more pictures as I was loosing the light and just pushing to get it all back together but the new guibo went in and everything went back together without issue. The test drive was rather pleasant - the play in the drivetrain has mostly disappeared, no more clunks changing gear and the car is easier to drive smoothly. A gear change under power still makes a slight clunk - likely engine or diff mounts - but the most obvious noises have gone, all contributing to a smoother ride. As I've said before, it's slowly turning into quite a nice car!
|
|
Last Edit: May 10, 2022 12:12:13 GMT by gryphon: Image fixes
|
|
gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
|
May 11, 2022 10:17:49 GMT
|
I've been negligent - no updates in 6 months! My enthusiasm for working on cars outside definitely wanes over winter, and the BMW has more or less been working as I've racked up almost 15k miles in the first year with it. The one piece of work that couldn't wait for better weather was the DMF that was getting very rattly going into January to the point that I was getting quite worried it would let go on me. A new LUK DMF and Clutch Kit (and Mayle transmission mounts while in the area) were bought and thrown in the direction of my local garage. Β£200 later the powertrain lash was improved, the car was much smoother on acceleration and the rattle was gone. I've got the old DMF to disassemble and satisfy my curiosity at some point... Now that the weather's improved I've started cracking on again. First job of the year was a quick change of the tailgate struts as the old ones were only just holding up the tailgate and it was very heavy to open. Ordered a new set of Stabilus (OEM I believe) struts for it and set about changing them. Unlike a lot of cars, the struts on the E39 are tucked away between the roof skin and the headlining, so totally hidden once fitted. It also gives them very little leverage on the tailgate as they're connected less than 10cm away from the hinge point, and as a result have to be very beefy! Old vs new main strut: They're fitted at the hinge here: And there are two per side, the smaller inner strut is for the glass section of the split tailgate, and the outer strut I showed above is for the main tailgate. They disappear into the little space between the roof and headlining with a ball and socket joint at the back. My boroscope proved very useful for lining everything up and removing/refitting the struts. A wide crowbar (with protection around the end) seemed to be the easiest way to manage it... The first side took me about 30min, the next side about 10 once I'd worked out how to do it! Nice liveability upgrade - although the tailgate now tries to decapitate you on the way up! Helpful with a On to slightly more important matters - The turbo is still very audible, and the engine mounts still clunky! A new turbo is punishingly expensive, a reconditioned one is >Β£400, a non-Cheap turbo core is around Β£160 and a chinese ebay turbo core is about Β£70! I went with a Melett turbo core which seem to have a good reputation, and I've not pulled a turbo apart before so seems more interesting! The turbo isn't hard to get to, piping and plastics off, then in a really nice touch from BMW there are removeable bungs in the airbox, a clip out heat shield underneath it, and the turbo-manifold bolts are very easily accessible: A little bit of gymnastics required to get it out of the engine bay between the air conditioning lines, but it did squeeze out. I was a little worried at this point, because the turbo spun quite nicely by hand, none of the notchyness I thought I'd felt before, no obvious play and it had good clearance to the housings. It's definitely noisy though! It came apart with a bit of persuasion from a hammer, and to my surprise the VNT vanes are all free, happy and unclogged: I cleaned everything up a bit, then tested that the VNT actuator was working with a little vacuum pump: All good there, no leaks. I also tested the vacuum solenoid that controls it on a power supply - clicked away happily. Old and new turbo cores: It was at this point I realised I'd ordered the wrong core, as the compressor wheel was about .5mm too large to fit into the compressor housing. When ordering I hadn't looked at the suffix on my turbo's part number and just ordered a core for a GT2556V turbo as generally fitted to an e39 not realising there were so many variants! While waiting for the new one to arrive I pulled apart the rest of the high pressure intake tract - from the lack of power, and a few oily spots, I've always assumed I have a bit of a boost leak, but I've never found anything obvious from just feeling around the pipework. The intercooler pops out very easily after unclipping the fan shroud and pushing it up out of the way: Definitely needs a cleanout, and may have a pinhole or two judging by the oil... Compressed air made quick work of clearing out the fins, and I washed out the innards with water and degreaser, then filled it with water and let it sit overnight to see how leaky it might be. There were no 'big' leaks, but over about 24 hours the water level dropped about an inch and there was a damp patch under the right hand side of the intercooler. I couldn't locate the leak, and it's certainly small - for now I'll live with it. Swapping out the intercooler in the future would probably take 10min once the undertrays were off, so not a big job. All the rest of the pipework was in good condition, no leaks to report. I also finally did the engine mounts while waiting. Getting access to the turbo has also given very good access to the right hand engine mount: That came out easily, didn't look in bad condition, but I needed to raise the engine a further 10mm to get the new one in place, so it had collapsed a fair amount. The other side was easier to get to but harder to take photos of. Once off however, it was clearly the worse of the two! Completely and utterly shot. Two new Meyle mounts were fitted, and I replaced the totally perished vacuum lines to them with motorsport silicone 3mm hose: Nice to have that out the way. With a new core that actually fitted, I started putting the turbo back together: At this point I completely underestimated the importance of setting up the end stops on the VNT actuator correctly. I had a google, didn't find much BMW related (turns out all the good info is on VAG forums) and proceeded to set the end stops to just within the physical limits of the adjuster arm.... and started putting the car back together: Went for a first test drive... and the car went straight into limp mode, MIL on, zero power. I could just about hear the turbo for short bursts and that was it. Bummer. Back for some troubleshooting... everything seemed connected, and the error codes weren't much help, simply reporting low flow on the EGR system. Tested the output of the VNT actuator: Yep, that looks good... (Also, it rolled over the 175k miles milestone in limp mode :/ ) Now I went down a google rabbit hole of setting up the VNT end stops and it was quickly apparent that was my issue. When rebuilding the turbo I had wondered how it managed the boost pressure without a wastegate - it turns out that the VNT vanes, when at 90Β° to the turbine wheel, effectively dump the exhaust gas and removing boost pressure. At their other end stop, they angle the gasses hitting the turbine, but also provide a very narrow aperture for the gas to pass through, increasing it's speed - however if the grub screw end stop isn't set correctly, they can block too much gas, build up back pressure until the ECU starts opening them, then blast the compressor wheel with all this back pressure and cause immediate overboost... Which seems to be exactly what I'd done. I was lucky to not cause any damage, the ECU saw it and entered limp mode - VNT vanes fully open. Explains my symptoms. Getting to this adjuster with the turbo in place wasn't easy. The 8mm nut on the grubscrew could be accessed with a long ratchet extension from underneath, but the hex head in the grub screw was impossible to get an allen key to. I ended up turning it with a lump of bluetack on the end of a stiff bit of wire, then just about managed to hold the grub screw secure enough to nip up the locknut. I could only see what I was doing through the boroscope... the grub screw started with 5 threads visible, I tried to set it to 7, but after doing up the locknut ended up with 9... A larger minimum opening reduces the boost available at lower RPM, but doesn't do any harm in the way that a smaller opening can. Ideally should be set up by measuring the gap in the VNT vanes, but I wanted to avoid removing and disassembling the turbo again! Test drive number two and the car is far happier! There is more power available than with the previous turbo, whine has totally disappeared, and the car is far less smokey than it has been previously! I'm sure I can get a little more boost out off it by adjusting the VNT stop back a little, so may well try that in the future. The new engine mounts have also made an incredible difference to the ride. The front end has lost a lot of it's harshness, feels actually quite plush over smoother roads, and far less clunky over broken roads. The difference is almost as big as swapping the shocks! As ever, improve one area and new issues become more visible... the back suspension is now feeling rather harsh compared to the front! That all done and car happy, about 30 miles of test drive done, I went to work up the A46 the next day...
|
|
|
|
|
|
May 11, 2022 11:14:01 GMT
|
β¦and ? β¦and ?β¦
|
|
|
|
|
|
May 11, 2022 14:45:01 GMT
|
Couple o things from early on in the topic... with external torx bolts you can use an ordinary 12-point socket. Unless it's something super-tight it's normally fine. I've even used a 12-point socket on e16 head bolts before.
Secondly, struggling with the air suspension pumping up when you're trying to work on it... you can open the airline if you can find a fitting somewhere. Pretty easy to do. Just make sure it isn't a 'single use' fitting and one that's easy to open and close. You can completely deflate both airbags if you find a common t-junction fitting.
|
|
|
|
|
|
May 11, 2022 15:06:52 GMT
|
Shame about the latest update. Also keen to see what the fix was... if you're not still on the side of the A46 that is.
|
|
|
|
gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
|
|
Well ok then... I was a couple of junctions up the A46, middle lane, behaving itself perfectly, when the instrument cluster popped up that 'Fuel Injection System' message and engine power disappeared. Clutch in, RPM dropped to zero and I coasted to the hard shoulder. First time a car has ever died on me on a dual carriageway. I was lucky in a way as if it had happened a minute earlier there's very little hard shoulder, as it was I managed to get onto the off ramp for Kenilworth/Leamington. To add insult to injury this was the first day of car sharing with a new colleague at work. Her partner had to come and rescue her while I waited for recovery! My wait wasn't too bad though, Auto Aid picked me up in just over an hour - very friendly recovery guy to boot. With the BMW safely back on my drive - and a chat with a couple of neighbours laughing at my unreliable cars (Although to be fair, this is only the second time in 8 years I've had a lift home in a recovery truck, and the first time was because I drove the 944 through a rather large puddle - I call that user error!) I swapped into the MX5 - which I'd only just fixed over the weekend and hadn't test driven yet - and managed to get to work a few hours late. That evening I started on the diagnosis. I hadn't touched the fuel injection system, but it had to be something that I'd done to it. Working turbo putting more stress on the injectors? - Unlikely! Code read to start - This is with a BMW specific USB-OBD connector (That works with INPA), but an app called DeepOBD on my phone that is far easier to use than INPA and has better translations! D40M57A1 (Diesel Electronics): Error code: 0480 DDE: Electric fan, Fault currently not present, Activation, open or short circuit to ground, Activation, open or short circuit to ground Environmental conditions: - Frequency: 2 - Logistics counter: 40
D40M57A1 (Diesel Electronics): Error code: 0400 DDE: Exhaust-gas recirculation or exhaust-gas recirculation controller, Fault currently not present, Positive control deviation/air mass too low, Positive control deviation/air mass too low Environmental conditions: - Frequency: 2 - Logistics counter: 40
D40M57A1 (Diesel Electronics): Error code: 0100 DDE: Mass air flow sensor, Fault currently not present, Signal, open or short circuit to ground,
Environmental conditions: - Frequency: 3 - SAE diagnostic trouble code: P0103 - Logistics counter: 40
D40M57A1 (Diesel Electronics): Error code: 3505 DDE: Glow-plug system, Fault currently not present, Glow preheating system - glow plugs or glow-duration relay, Glow preheating system - glow plugs or glow-duration relay Environmental conditions: - Frequency: 1 - Logistics counter: 40
IHKA39_5 (Automatic heating/air conditioning): Error code: 0032 Zuheizer
ZIS (Multi Information Display): Error code: 0003 Keine gueltige Statusrueckmeldung TELEFON
ZUHEIZ (Independent/auxiliary heating): Error code: 0003 STH: Circulating pump, Open or short circuit to battery voltage Environmental conditions: - Frequency: 255
Most of those are regulars - the new ones are related to the EGR and the MAF, neither of which have anything to do with the injection system. The Injection system error message no longer comes up either, it just cranks away and doesn't hint at starting. First off I checked everything I'd touched doing the turbo and engine mounts - everything looked good. Then checking all the fuses... nothing out of place in the accessible fuse boxes, which lead me to google, and to an extra hidden fuse box tucked away behind the DDE (engine controller) in a waterproof box below the passenger air intake in the engine bay. The upside down 30A fuse (Called EF2) is blown, and there is a dead short to ground on it. According to forums EF2 is responsible for the Injectors, Fuel Pump - and a load of petrol specific bits, I didn't find a description for a diesel car (I should have tried to find a wiring diagram at this point, ah well). Explains the no start at least. I unplugged all injectors and the low pressure fuel pump, checking the short to ground as I went - it didn't disappear and all the injectors and fuel pump looked fine to the multimeter.... This lead me to thinking that I may have crushed and damaged a wiring harness when I jacked up the engine to change the engine mounts, but I was loosing the light so left it for the evening. Next evening I dismantled the engine bay a little more and tried to find anything I may have crushed... and couldn't find any likely candidates, then all of a sudden, the short circuit on the power rail had disappeared! darn- I've no idea what's changed. Going back carefully over all the wiring I've disturbed in my investigations I finally found it. It seems that EF2 also manages power to all of the vacuum solenoids around the engine bay, including the one that controls the VNT actuator on the turbo. When I'd reassembled everything, I'd managed to route the control wire for this on the wrong side of one of the air intake pipes, which resulted in it falling against the EGR pipe. As the engine got hot enough up the A46 it melted the harness and gave me a nice short to ground. That will do it. There's enough slack in the harness, so I cut out the melty bit, soldered the wires and covered it all with some adhesive lined heat shrink. With that fixed and routed well away from the EGR pipe, I plugged everything back in, checked the fusebox with the multimeter - no more short circuit, popped a new fuse in, and the engine fired straight up. To give it a proper test, we headed up to the Yorkshire Dales for a weekend of camping/biking - and the car behaved perfectly On the way home we topped up the tank before hitting the M6 (Β£70 for 1/2 a tank, ouch), then went straight into a 50mph average zone for about an hour. I'd reset the average MPG count with the new tank... Almost 59mpg, sweet!. After a weeks commuting this is now back down to 48mpg, as against the 42 it was reporting pre-turbo change... Fingers crossed
|
|
Last Edit: May 12, 2022 12:45:40 GMT by gryphon
|
|
|
|
|
Glad it was a, relatively, simple fix. π
|
|
|
|
gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
|
May 12, 2022 12:44:46 GMT
|
Couple o things from early on in the topic... with external torx bolts you can use an ordinary 12-point socket. Unless it's something super-tight it's normally fine. I've even used a 12-point socket on e16 head bolts before. Secondly, struggling with the air suspension pumping up when you're trying to work on it... you can open the airline if you can find a fitting somewhere. Pretty easy to do. Just make sure it isn't a 'single use' fitting and one that's easy to open and close. You can completely deflate both airbags if you find a common T-junction fitting. Thanks! Yes, with the torx bolts I realised that even the 6 sided sockets I had in my toolkit actually worked fine... Any excuse to expand my tool collection though... I hadn't looked at the air system at all when I was replacing those ball joints - the connections to the airbags themselves are nice reusable push fits (if a little tedious to get to) so easy to deflate. I've also now got the INPA software which will quickly deflate them if needed. Two new airbags are on my list of things to do so I'll be revisiting them soon. Glad it was a, relatively, simple fix. π Thanks - it was in the end, the only difficulty was finding it. I could definitely have a debate with BMW electrical engineers about hanging lots of non-essential things spread around the engine bay (vacuum solenoids) off the same fuse that is responsible for essential items such as fuel pump and Injectors. Surely essential systems should be limited to as few harness splices and systems as possible, and non essential systems should have their own fuse. This issue could have take out all of the vacuum systems and safely put the car in limp mode rather than the back of a recovery truck - all the vacuum actuators fail to their safe state. I actually have one such ex BMW electrical engineer sitting opposite me right now, but he's protesting his innocence!
|
|
|
|
|
|
May 12, 2022 12:52:26 GMT
|
βThey all do that sir β¦β. π
|
|
Last Edit: May 12, 2022 12:53:25 GMT by westbay
|
|
|
|
May 12, 2022 15:46:14 GMT
|
I managed to get INPA working on my laptop the other day. I used to have a workshop full of gear and took it all for granted at the time. But trying to get INPA working to fix my 20 year old BMW without spending any money felt totally worth it when it finally worked. I just had to reset the airbag light after taking out the seats for cleaning. Stupidly I was well aware of this quirk with BMWs of the era. i.e. where they put on the airbag light just because you disconnected and reconnected the seat connector. I should have disconnected the battery first, maybe that would have avoided illuminating it in the first place.
Had a similar chaffed wire situation on our e350 estate. I believe that was actually factory wired so the electrical engineer would've been to blame in this case. Took out the rear air suspension which slowly deflated over about a week until the ass was dragging. I found it pretty quickly... as someone said above, it's always pretty simple.
|
|
|
|
|