Electric Fuel Pump on Classic Car.

I'm just doing an electric fuel pump conversion on my Sportshatch, and it's been a pain in the neck from start to finish.

Is it possible that the pump is putting too much pressure onto the carb and that's why fuel may be seeping? Everything I've read suggested that a fuel pressure regulator is required, and I've fitted one to my setup and turned it down low. I ran the pump (but didn't start the engine) today and I don't seem to have any fuel weeping under full pressure. Maybe that will change when the engine runs, though in theory that would make the pressure a bit lower as it starts to get used.

I'm not exactly sure why my car fitted with an electric pump by me needs a pressure regulator, but thousands of BL cars were fitted with SU pumps from new and didn't.

Is that pump suitable for the job? I wanted to fit my pump in the engine bay so I didn't have the hassle of removing all the interior to run a wire to the back, and I was advised that I'd need a Facet "Silver Top" or equivalent, that the smaller pumps wouldn't like to pull the fuel for that distance. How true that is I don't know, but a Silver Top is the one I went for.

I seem to remember a fix on my Honda CBR600F jelly mold was a classic mini or minor electric pump to replace knackered Honda jobbie (£12 v £120 at the time) as it didn't over pressurize. It just pumped fuel, no return line.
As stated above float valve should be able to stop the flow without overflow.

Cheers for getting back to my post. I’m guessing that maybe I do need a regulator and a pressure dial in there? I really don’t want any engine bay fires due to this.
I see there’s a fair few options some really cheap on eBay. My thinking is though if you put one inline with the fuel pump and carb, will there not be a lot of pressure in the line before the regulator ? Or is there always a return to tank in this situation? My Carb had a return to tank so not sure if that would be bypassed?

Yeah is a newer gasket although its been on and off a few times. I might put the old one back on as it could be in better condition or get a new one. It was leaking a bit on the pipe going into the carb but I really tightened that Down and it seems ok now.

i'm guessing this is the same one which is saying 2- 4 psi. I'll properly check when i get under the bonnet later.

www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Universal-Outlet-Carburetor-HEP-02A/dp/B07X4FHN9Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=I2CY4W87L02M&dchild=1&keywords=electric+fuel+pump+12v&qid=1618906205&sprefix=electric+fue%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSlBDUkNCREtZVUxKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjU1ODgwMVZEWE5SNkdUMzdCRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjE5NTg2WU42WFRPTFVCRDJRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Are you 100% this is new? The carb looks pretty stained in those areas and might have been a bit wet for a while IMO.

I would fit new gaskets to both top and bottom of the carb and also check that the mating surfaces are flat. I have often seen older DGAV carbs with bowed bases.

I have one of those in my MG, as I replaced the seized SU pump with a facet 'push' pump. To be honest, I just fitted it out the box and have had no problems , but it occurs to me I should possibly check it's not wound down too low I guess. But it's been fine for the 200 miles i've done on it so far

If the electric pump has replaced a mechanically driven one, you should seriously consider adding an inertia switch to the live feed. Just in case.....

do these just wire in series to the pump, and presumably switch 'off' if they shaken in an accident ?

EDIT: looks like they do, more info added in my other posts

the pump in my MG is always on, and is like that from the factory, so something like that would be a small bit of added safety