cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,601
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Apr 19, 2021 15:41:10 GMT
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Can anyone give me the run down on aftermarket electric Fuel pumps for classics? A garage fitted this one to my Capri as i was having nightmares with it starting. Now thats fixed I feel like i'm seeing fuel around the gasket near the overflow pipe. I'm worried this might be overfilling the carb when when I looked the make up it seems like this wouldn't put out anymore fuel than a standard manual one? I understand this could be a float problem but if someone could put my mind at ease with the pump id be grateful.
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Apr 19, 2021 17:15:30 GMT
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I'm just doing an electric fuel pump conversion on my Sportshatch, and it's been a pain in the neck from start to finish.
Is it possible that the pump is putting too much pressure onto the carb and that's why fuel may be seeping? Everything I've read suggested that a fuel pressure regulator is required, and I've fitted one to my setup and turned it down low. I ran the pump (but didn't start the engine) today and I don't seem to have any fuel weeping under full pressure. Maybe that will change when the engine runs, though in theory that would make the pressure a bit lower as it starts to get used.
I'm not exactly sure why my car fitted with an electric pump by me needs a pressure regulator, but thousands of BL cars were fitted with SU pumps from new and didn't.
Is that pump suitable for the job? I wanted to fit my pump in the engine bay so I didn't have the hassle of removing all the interior to run a wire to the back, and I was advised that I'd need a Facet "Silver Top" or equivalent, that the smaller pumps wouldn't like to pull the fuel for that distance. How true that is I don't know, but a Silver Top is the one I went for.
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madmog
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,160
Club RR Member Number: 46
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Apr 19, 2021 17:23:39 GMT
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I think there is a difference between pumps for carbs that recirculate fuel (Weber, Yamaha) and ones that don't (Eg SU). For SUs the carb float valve should be sufficient to stop the pump and the pump shouldn't have a problem with the flow being stopped.
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Apr 19, 2021 17:39:23 GMT
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I seem to remember a fix on my Honda CBR600F jelly mold was a classic mini or minor electric pump to replace knackered Honda jobbie (£12 v £120 at the time) as it didn't over pressurize. It just pumped fuel, no return line. As stated above float valve should be able to stop the flow without overflow.
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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Apr 19, 2021 18:50:12 GMT
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In the world of Triumph and others of that ilk, we fit electric pumps to get away from crappy repro mechanical pumps that produce too much pressure and drown our SUs and Strombergs.
For this many of us use Huco which is cheap-ish and fairly compact. Note there are two versions. One “pusher” designed to sit near the tank, and one “sucker” designed to sit near the engine.
I recommend also fitting an inertia cut-out switch in series to turn the pump off in the event of impact.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,601
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Apr 19, 2021 20:34:11 GMT
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Cheers for getting back to my post. I’m guessing that maybe I do need a regulator and a pressure dial in there? I really don’t want any engine bay fires due to this. I see there’s a fair few options some really cheap on eBay. My thinking is though if you put one inline with the fuel pump and carb, will there not be a lot of pressure in the line before the regulator ? Or is there always a return to tank in this situation? My Carb had a return to tank so not sure if that would be bypassed?
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Apr 19, 2021 21:19:16 GMT
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I've use electric ones (mostly facet) without a regulator with no problems on SU's and weber carbs, your's looks like it is weeping at the gasket, has it been changed when the carb has been apart? I don't think your fuel pressure is overcoming the float valve you would be seeing more issues than a small weep.
If you do fit a regulator there will be no more pressure in the line than you have now when the float valve in the carb shuts off now, (the pumps are self regulating at around 3psi) I would leave the return in place one of it's main purposes is to keep fuel flowing through the lines all the time to prevent vapor locks in warm weather.
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,601
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,601
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Apr 20, 2021 15:23:22 GMT
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Just took the car out to get some lunch/excuse to look at this carb again. It could be just a gasket thing but I noticed damp forming on the base plate to the carb as well. Weirdly not the Accelerator pump but just the top gasket and the bottom now. I think the cheapest way to figure this out would be to refit the manual pump but also I don't know if the pipes will now fit. I heard on a youtube video that these carbs don't like much more than 3psi and if this electric pump could go up to 4psi i guess it could be that. Also maybe its not helping with my Pinging situation that I have at the moment . I know this might seem a bit dramatic for how little fuel is escaping but I know these Webers/Capris love a fire so... wanting to stay far away from that. I've only driven it locally yet and I'm wanting to go a few hours up north or to goodwood in it etc. PS the fuel hasnt really shown up in the last two photos but in real life you can see it in sunlight.
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Are you 100% this is new? The carb looks pretty stained in those areas and might have been a bit wet for a while IMO.
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Pid363!
Posted a lot
Madness is all in the mind!
Posts: 1,044
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I could be wrong but some pumps are designed to push some pull. So some pumps are work better near the tank others near the carb. I’ve used Moprod pumps in replacement of the old SU points pumps.
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Stupid is as stupid does!
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dazee
Part of things
Posts: 96
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Apr 21, 2021 10:39:27 GMT
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I would fit new gaskets to both top and bottom of the carb and also check that the mating surfaces are flat. I have often seen older DGAV carbs with bowed bases.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,907
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Apr 21, 2021 12:17:07 GMT
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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Apr 22, 2021 12:05:42 GMT
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I have one of those in my MG, as I replaced the seized SU pump with a facet 'push' pump. To be honest, I just fitted it out the box and have had no problems , but it occurs to me I should possibly check it's not wound down too low I guess. But it's been fine for the 200 miles i've done on it so far
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,907
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Apr 22, 2021 12:09:33 GMT
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We used the biggest pressure gauge known to man. Back then I didn't need reading glasses either !
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penguin45
Part of things
Still welding......
Posts: 70
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Apr 22, 2021 12:54:09 GMT
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If the electric pump has replaced a mechanically driven one, you should seriously consider adding an inertia switch to the live feed. Just in case.....
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Apr 22, 2021 14:32:35 GMT
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If the electric pump has replaced a mechanically driven one, you should seriously consider adding an inertia switch to the live feed. Just in case..... I've used Fiesta / Ka inertia switches on all of mine, cheap and simple to install with a couple of screws.
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Last Edit: Apr 22, 2021 14:34:53 GMT by kevins
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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If the electric pump has replaced a mechanically driven one, you should seriously consider adding an inertia switch to the live feed. Just in case..... I've used Fiesta / Ka inertia switches on all of mine, cheap and simple to install with a couple of screws. do these just wire in series to the pump, and presumably switch 'off' if they shaken in an accident ? EDIT: looks like they do, more info added in my other posts the pump in my MG is always on, and is like that from the factory, so something like that would be a small bit of added safety
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2021 9:17:38 GMT by spiny
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madmog
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,160
Club RR Member Number: 46
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Can inertia switches be re-set if they trip?
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spiny
Club Retro Rides Member
Wiki Admin
I am abivalent towards car electrics ...
Posts: 1,331
Club RR Member Number: 167
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I've used Fiesta / Ka inertia switches on all of mine, cheap and simple to install with a couple of screws. do these just wire in series to the pump, and presumably switch 'off' if they shaken in an accident ? the pump in my MG is always on, and is like that from the factory, so something like that would be a small bit of added safety eg, something like this? edit: the LAMP is for a light on the dash so I'd know the pump is running. No other reason really
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Last Edit: Apr 23, 2021 9:15:56 GMT by spiny
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