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Apr 14, 2021 20:21:56 GMT
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So one of the things with early Boxsters is that the OE ICE is utterly poo. Now I mostly just listen to the rather loud after market exhaust playing the flat 6 concerto, however on longer journeys I like some sounds. To this end I have fitted an aftermarket head unit with necessary MOST converter etc etc. I am running the factory amp in the frunk.
My dash speakers are upgraded (4ohm), OE door speakers are a sort of low range woofer thing running at 2 ohms, no problem as that is factory. I want to run after market amp, upgraded door speakers (4 ohm) and rear shelf speakers (4ohm) so can any one confirm or tell me I am being an elctronics biffer on the following plan, one so cunning you could stick a tail on it and call it a weasel..... or not.
4 channel after market amp (4ohm but 2 ohm stable) due to space, channel 1+2 running front dash speakers (where most sound comes from at the moment) at 4ohms per channel, channel 3+4 running door (4ohm) and rear shelf (4ohm) wired in parallel running at 2ohm per channel giving me the opportunity to fire up some Kraftwerk as I Fahren Sie schnell auf der Straße.............
Please feel free to ejumerkate me in all things Ohm resistance speaker thingamy wotsits.
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,948
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Apr 14, 2021 20:28:02 GMT
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Is the aftermarket amp a direct replacement of the frunk mounted one? And is the amp capable of handling different ohm ratings? If so, I'd be inclined to replace the amp, and the speakers and not get too hung up about the speakers being parallel or series part and see how it actually sounds first before tweaking too much
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Apr 14, 2021 20:42:58 GMT
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The replacement (not bought yet) will fit where the oe one is currently and I'm going to do wiring as required. Can't use the oe connection at the amp as its specific to the factory unit, just some wires to cut and some to add for the shelf speakers. It can handle different impedance on separate channels according to the supplier. Series works as it will be easier to wire and gives 2ohm impedance which the amp can handle.
I am basing all of this on reading guidance elsewhere as it appears that as long as I don't try to run a rave from the car, volume wise, the amp will handle it.
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Last Edit: Apr 14, 2021 20:45:15 GMT by duggers
Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,834
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Apr 14, 2021 21:31:32 GMT
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The only issue would be setting the balance and fade might be a faff.
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Apr 15, 2021 10:14:47 GMT
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Please excuse any egg-sucking lessons which may follow It would be easier to check if you had a link to the actual amp, but in theory what you propose in terms of speaker arrangement sounds suitable. I'm not sure how the dash + door & shelf split will actually sound, but worst-case you might have to swap it to dash & door + shelf instead. I would suggest checking a couple of things on the power side: 1. Wire gauge: If the replacement amp is more powerful than the OE one, it may well require larger power cables. Don't skimp on this, as even if you try to keep the volume low an amp can use a surprising amount of current. 2. Fuse rating: Make sure that the new amp is fused correctly, as per the manufacturer's instructions. Note that this is not an alternative to having proper-sized cables! Hope this helps!
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Apr 17, 2021 20:45:13 GMT
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daklone not egg sucking at all, useful. I am not going super powerful just want to run proper door speakers and rear shelf addition so I can hear it. The amp will completely replace the OE one but be in the same location which is conveniently about 20cm from the battery so proper gauge wiring with fuse from the battery just using the factory trigger wire. The standard set up means the best sound comes form the dash speakers which are fairly outdone by about 60 with the roof down. All helps , cheers for your input
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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Apr 27, 2021 21:15:28 GMT
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Sorry, I'm a bit late to this party.
Your plan is perfectly reasonable. If you do run into trouble it'll be if you turn it up too much. It's current that will annoy your amp. Less ohms = more current. But also more volume = more current. Of course you'll not be able to do anything to balance the shelf and door speakers as they are wired together.
Anyway, my other though is this... It's likely that the speakers in the dash and on the shelf are smaller and handle the mid and top. The ones in the doors are likely to be handling the low frequencies. The stock amp will likely be doing the frequency split - it'll have a crossover in it. If that's true (and it's a total guess on my part) your new set up will put the full range into all the speakers which they may not be able to cope with. The door speakers won't care much but the smaller ones in the dash and on the shelf might.
My old MR2 has a power amp and EQ under the seat so I can tweak it so I like it. But the standard dash speakers are only 4 inch and if I try and put any bass in they just hit their end stops and make a farty noise. My plan is to do a more modern like set up and put some slightly bigger drivers in the doors and build a crossover to take the bass out of the dash speakers (and the HF out of the doors).
James
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Apr 27, 2021 22:26:17 GMT
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Anyway, my other though is this... It's likely that the speakers in the dash and on the shelf are smaller and handle the mid and top. The ones in the doors are likely to be handling the low frequencies. The stock amp will likely be doing the frequency split - it'll have a crossover in it. If that's true (and it's a total guess on my part) your new set up will put the full range into all the speakers which they may not be able to cope with. The door speakers won't care much but the smaller ones in the dash and on the shelf might. I may be wrong on this but doesn't the earlier Boxster have full range speakers in the dash and another set in the doors with no rear shelf speakers? In which case there is probably a front/rear fader control on the original HU that enabled an even balance to be obtained between door and dash speakers. In fact looking at this picture of the dash speakers (stolen from ebay), a bass driver and an HF driver can be clearly seen, along with a capacitor to prevent LF from being fed to the HF driver.
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Apr 28, 2021 19:50:48 GMT
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Yeah... Those bass drivers might have been considered 'full range' in the 80's but they are definitely mids in a luxury car around the 2000's. The bass will be coming from the door speakers. (I really hope the bass was coming from the door speakers...) Of course I could be completely wrong and it would explain why duggers thinks his radio sounds plop. Edit. I didn't write 'plop'. I wrote a word starting with 'c' and ending 'rap'. I don't know why 'plop' would be preferable but I quite like it as a word and reserve the right to steal it as my own and use it liberally in future posts. Plop. Yeah. I like it... It has a pleasant er, 'ploppy' sound.
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Last Edit: Apr 28, 2021 19:57:03 GMT by Sweetpea
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Apr 28, 2021 20:06:23 GMT
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I've replaced the dash speakers (a usual upgrade on Boxsters and 996), I'm replacing door speakers normal ones as the oe is indeed low end woofer type and adding the rear speakers. So door and shelf or door and rear(?)will be 4ohm in parallel giving a 2ohm load which the amp I'm getting is stable at. i don't do blasting phatt beats , just want to hear it at sensible speeds when just going along.
The original speakers are indeed plop even when they were new, it's almost as if Porsche said, suppose we better fit some sort of stereo, "Hans how much do we have to spend?" " I think about 100Dm , why do you ask?" "But Hans that will only allow the fitting of plop" " Yes but people do not buy Porsche cars for stereos, anyway this car is a last shot at saving the brand lets use the British system of quality car components , you know, that'll do"
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Last Edit: Apr 28, 2021 20:06:45 GMT by duggers
Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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Apr 28, 2021 20:55:08 GMT
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Ay up duggers me dear chap. The 2 ohm load on the amp won't be a problem if the amp is specced for it. I mean, paralleling speakers isn't the way forward for high quality sound but I doubt you'd notice in a noisy car. The problems, if anything, is that you can't balance the door speakers against the shelf if one turns out to be too loud. And that you'll not get much bass from the dash (and shelf) so it might be a bit bass light. So, practical advice... Build it, chuck some EQ at it and see how it sounds. If the worst comes to the worst and you can't get it to sound nice, you just buy a little amp and drive the shelf speakers separately. And remember, you're the one listening to it so if you are happy nobody else opinion really matters. James
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