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I agree with Kevin epoxy primer (Lechlar) then filler then epoxy primer again. Then any finishing coat. Epoxy primer is awesome stuff, bear in mind it has its own hardener and thinners though.
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jgtr
Part of things
Posts: 270
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I agree with Kevin epoxy primer (Lechlar) then filler then epoxy primer again. Then any finishing coat. Epoxy primer is awesome stuff, bear in mind it has its own hardener and thinners though. Cheers, do I need to key the primer before applying filler and what if I sand through to bare metal between filler coats?? Sorry for all the questions, this is really helpful for me :-)
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Bilt hamber and Dinitrol are very similar for how they perform. Either is fine just stay away from any other brands as they are inferior. Personally i use Bilt hamber products. Heating the wax first by putting the can in a bucket of hot water helps the flow a lot, especially at this time of year. Another little tip is put a mark on the lance/tube about 2 inches from the nozzle. Either coloured tape around it or a pen/paint mark. Then when you are squirting and pulling the nozzle towards you the tape will warn you before the nozzle pops out and you squirt yourself in the face with wax..... Don't ask how i worked that one out
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 282
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I've just bought THIS I've got plenty of spare/offcuts of pvc pipe to extend the lance. Problem is with those sorts of guns working on the bernoulli principle is they don't like too long an extension and they stop "sucking" the fluid up - do a test run first.
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 282
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With epoxy paints, follow the surface prep instructions.
I used epoxy mastic and then Jotun on my Lancia 15 years ago - some onto blasted steel, some onto wire wheeled and flap disced steel.
Five years ago after ten years of use, I had to do some repairwork.
Where I had blasted the steel, both brandss were pretty much still stuck like brown sticky stuff to a furry blanket.
Where I hadn't, it had separated from the surface, allowing water underneath. The paint itself was still intact, but would come off in large flakes/sheets.
The stuff on the blasted surface needed blasting again to get it off!
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jgtr
Part of things
Posts: 270
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I’ve read that flap disc/wire wheels can leave the surface ‘polished’ which can affect the bond with the epoxy - I’ll DA the surfaces prior to painting which should create a decent bond
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Problem is with those sorts of guns working on the bernoulli principle is they don't like too long an extension and they stop "sucking" the fluid up - do a test run first. I found exactly that problem (or at least I assume that's what it was) when I tried to stick an extension on my stonechip gun that didn't come with one. I figured it was just a packaging thing, until it just didn't do anything at all.
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As long as you dry sand (no water) then exposing the steel again before filler is ok. Yes you do need to key the epoxy, but epoxy is so tough and goes on fairly thick so it's quite hard to sand through it! 800 grit is fine to key it up again - just lose the shiny surface of the epoxy and its ready.
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jgtr
Part of things
Posts: 270
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Cheers, have ordered some Lechlar EP, I’m assuming I can use it as high build, flat and shoot the colour straight over the top and not have to use 2k high build primer at all?
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Last Edit: Jan 4, 2021 19:09:53 GMT by jgtr
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Thats what I did, probably a bit more prep required that way as high build hides a lot.
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