jgtr
Part of things
Posts: 270 
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Dec 27, 2020 18:11:02 GMT
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Hi all, looking a options for injecting cavity wax into my sills and arches, I’m considering the following if anyone has any advice?
1. Bilt Hamber 750ml spray cans with 600mm lance - thinking 2 or 3 if these at £15 each should do?
2. Sealey plastic sprayer - about £40 + £45 for 5L wax
3. Sealey SG18 - around £90 + £45 for 5L wax
I don’t want to spend loads, but want a decent job
Any advice or recommendations??
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Dec 27, 2020 18:35:02 GMT
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I use Bilt Hamber. One can will do two sills but I normally buy two "just in case" and what's spare can be used after repairs etc. It's thin, goes everywhere and lasts.
I stay away from heavy waxes such as Waxoil. I've found them to shrink and allow condensation to get in and start rot. It's probably killed just as many car as it's saved. In my opinion that is.
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 281
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Dec 29, 2020 17:22:07 GMT
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Option 3 is the bees knees and just works - nice long lance to inject it all the way along sills, hollow members etc. And a hand lance for spraying underbody wax. I would not be without mine now.
Worth it just for ease of use - but especially worth it if you will do any more cars, never mind retreating the same car - most cavity waxes need topping up every few years to maintain effectiveness.
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Dec 29, 2020 18:48:29 GMT
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Dinitrol is the best stuff for protection.
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redratbike
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,518
Member is Online
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Dec 31, 2020 15:54:15 GMT
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Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 is the best. This is laboratory proven and the results against others are available to be seen by all.
Awesome stuff
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 Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern |
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Dec 31, 2020 15:59:52 GMT
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Interested in this as I've just made an offroad style rear bumper for my Navara.
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xfu990
Part of things
Posts: 78
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Dec 31, 2020 16:02:52 GMT
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Dinitrol is as good as it gets, I have used the Bilt Hamber more recently and I am getting very similar (good) results, very handy in the cans, less mess. Avoid Waxoyl, it ain't what it used to be and as mentioned above shrinks for fun and then lets the condensation in.............
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Dec 31, 2020 16:06:03 GMT
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Out of interest how long can you get the cavity lance? My bumper is 1850mm long (so 900mm centres)
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xfu990
Part of things
Posts: 78
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Dec 31, 2020 16:13:28 GMT
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Bilt Hamber is 600mm. I drill extra holes and use the Dinitrol plastic pugs after. You need to seal the bare metal with paint and then lake the hole with rustproofing product afterwards. If you was lucky enough to have your car Dinitrolled in the 80's they drilled holes galore! If you don't seal it it obviously defeats the object I'm afraid. There must be other product lances though, eBay is your friend  |
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Dec 31, 2020 16:21:54 GMT
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600mm was the longest I could find too, I'm welding some recovery points on so could drill behind them and seal before I weld them up.
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Last Edit: Dec 31, 2020 16:22:30 GMT by xbl
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If you need a flexible lance, some flexible tube work perfectly. Seal the end, either threaded rod/ bolt or melt it, then drill a few 1mm holes. Works wonderfully.
Also, I heat whatever I’m injecting in a bucket of hot water, flows much better.
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 281
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This has been posted before: www.auson.se/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk.pdfI used dinitrol on my Lancia 15 yrs ago . . . 5 yrs ago I repaired it again and used Noxudol . . no sign of problems yet. Mind you, I've been regualarly sozzling my 91 Pug 106 that lives outside in all weather in whats left of three tins of Wxoyle I bought 20 odd years ago - that's still on original sills etc. |
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I've just bought THIS I've got plenty of spare/offcuts of pvc pipe to extend the lance. |
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jgtr
Part of things
Posts: 270
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Thanks all, this is really helpful, I’ve gone for Dynax S50 as it gets good reviews, comes in a can so no extra equipment needed and will flow into the seams. I’ve only got a front can sill and wheel arch so the lance that comes with it should easily reach all the areas I need.
I was planning to use Bilt Hamber Electrox on the inner wheel arches but may now use epoxy mastic 121 based on that article, seal with PU sealer and gravitex over the we top.
I was planning to 2k high build prime the sills, wheel arches and a post - could I use epoxy mastic instead?
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I would use epoxy primer followed by gravitex rather than mastic, I find the mastic too thick and I'm not convinced it seeps into the corners and seams as well.
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jgtr
Part of things
Posts: 270
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I would use epoxy primer followed by gravitex rather than mastic, I find the mastic too thick and I'm not convinced it seeps into the corners and seams as well. Now that’s confused me, what’s the difference between epoxy primer and epoxy mastic - thought they were the same thing? I was thinking of brushing epoxy mastic onto the lower section of the sill and inner wheel arch, then 2k prime as per normal - the logic being that the areas that are most prone to stone chips and rust will be better protected |
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Epoxy mastic is very thick, the paint is more a conventional primer and flows / creeps more but doesen't give such a thick coating, both are waterproof.
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jgtr
Part of things
Posts: 270
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Epoxy mastic is very thick, the paint is more a conventional primer and flows / creeps more but doesen't give such a thick coating, both are waterproof. Cheers, I’ve never heard of epoxy primers but after doing some reading they sound like a good idea - below is the work I’m doing, new sills, arches and repairs on the A post and around the screen aperture. It’s all back to bare metal now - so if I’ve got this right I’d apply a coat of epoxy primer over the whole area straight onto the bare metal, then do any filler work, followed by 2k high build primer and 2k topcoat?    |
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I generally only use epoxy primer, fill recoat in epoxy and topcoat directly onto it, I am though using cellulose and mostly on fiberglass where you want to avoid any hydroscopic primers.
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