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Jan 18, 2021 14:11:00 GMT
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Ordered some new bits. I know I should probably wait until I am confident the engine is running well, but oh well. Ordered a rocker cover gasket (it appears to be weeping a bit) and a feeler gauge to check valve clearances whilst I'm in there (Haynes makes it sound easy...). Also bought Powerflex bump stops and cups to sit them in, which is apparently an easy job unless the bolt doesn't come out then you need to drop the rear axle ...
I forgot to mention, after my drive yesterday when I turned the key off the engine overran for a few seconds. I have had it suggested to me this could be a carb or points problem. So both needing checked.
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Jan 18, 2021 14:14:42 GMT
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Can also be timing  |
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Jan 18, 2021 14:18:39 GMT
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Noted, will order a timing light! (And then work out how to use it ...).
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Jan 18, 2021 14:44:00 GMT
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They are pretty easy to use.
Seems a nicely explained video. I have done it before, but I didnt know why I was doing what I was doing lol (I do now having watched that lol)
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Last Edit: Jan 18, 2021 14:52:21 GMT by joem83
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Jan 18, 2021 15:29:05 GMT
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Jan 18, 2021 16:42:58 GMT
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don't know much about them, looks ok. Cant see why it wouldnt work - shouldnt be to hard to temp wire any tacho tbh
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Last Edit: Jan 18, 2021 16:43:35 GMT by joem83
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Jan 19, 2021 14:16:32 GMT
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So I've ordered a variety of additional parts for the ignition system - leads, rotor arm, distributor cap, coil - to add to my vast selection of parts to be fitted. They are so cheap that I just think what the heck ...
I did find some coolant/oil mix in the breather hose this morning, which concerns me. I think the coolant level has dropped, but it may be due to dislodging an air lock / opening thermostat on my first drive.
I tested the fan, and it works, which is good.
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Jan 19, 2021 16:15:44 GMT
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I wouldnt worry about the H/G at the moment, you will find where ever oil vapour & air goes - you will get some mayo as the car's not getting up to operating temp and staying there long enough.
If it is a H/G then it's quite cheap for the parts & you have done a cambelt already so shouldnt be a problem.
If you are happy with the cooling system being full & no air lock, try and mark the water line on the header tank & run the car. Check it once it is cool again.
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Last Edit: Jan 19, 2021 16:17:43 GMT by joem83
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Jan 21, 2021 15:52:24 GMT
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So, little update.
First things - I went out with the intention of carefully watching the temperature gauge and realised I don't actually have a temperature gauge ... I do have a high temperature warning light, which has never come on.
I idled the car for about ten or fifteen minutes this afternoon, after topping up the coolant. It idles okay with the choke out a bit, but even after ten minutes it still bogs down if you put the choke fully in, and stalls with too much acceleration. The good news is, in that time the coolant level did not drop and after it warmed up a bit there wasn't much white smoke from the exhaust.
The bad news is it started steaming heavily - this time, because I left it long enough, it was very apparent the steam was coming from the radiator rather than the engine. So I turned it off at this point. The fans had not activated at this point. The lower radiator hose was still cold.
Perhaps faulty thermostat? Or could I simply have failed to bleed the system properly...?
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Jan 21, 2021 17:44:19 GMT
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Okay, in line with my trigger's broom approach so far I have ordered a new radiator (it desperately needs one, to be fair); a new thermostat (cheap); and a new fan switch (also cheap).
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Jan 23, 2021 17:44:31 GMT
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Moving away from the engine today's job was 50% successful. Successful  Defeated by a rusty rounded off bolt.  Cant quite work out why the bolt on one side looked brand new and on the other side is a rusty mess. Unless someone had the same problem previously.... I think I'll try cutting a slot into the head of the bolt and turning it with a screw driver. Oh and I managed to take a chunk out the top of each thumb trying to get the bush into the mount... |
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Jan 24, 2021 14:06:37 GMT
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Todays task was investigating the loose driver's seat. Wrestled with the bolts for some time and still got two that are rusty/rounded and wont come out. However ones not such a big problem...  Not ideal...wonder what state the floorpan is in... |
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So in the land of rusted bolts...
Torx bolt on back of driver seat - goosed. Cut a slot into head with an angle grinder, but no amount of force is turning it. Seems the only solution is to drill it out.
Bolt for bump stop - irwin extractor did grand total of f all. Gonna maybe try my slot idea otherwise its another one for drilling though access is pretty curse word. Could use a right angled drill but not confident that will be that effective...
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Jan 25, 2021 11:30:58 GMT
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I seem to remember having to drill one of the seat bolts on one of mine, watch to don't overheat the bolt as it makes it even harder.
Could probably have done with an impact wrench to budge it
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Jan 25, 2021 12:42:34 GMT
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Yeah I did consider investing in an impact wrench...
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Jan 31, 2021 13:05:36 GMT
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Successful day yesterday.  |https://thumbsnap.com/WjTMwvd8[/a] Drilled a hole in the bolt, screwed in my screw extractor. Bolt wouldn't budge. Applied a lot of heat with a blowtorch through shank of extractor, turned, it moved! Got it about halfway out...extractor snapped :cry: drilled the remains out. Will need to re tap the thread. Bought a set today but stupid me bought the wrong size. Got an m8 coming from amazon...  Seats out! Simply drilled it out. Still need to get the bolt free thats still in the rail and probably re tap the thread in the floor. Good news - the front isnt rotten. I think i can fix it without welding by simply bolting a plate across the gap. Gonna try that.... |
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Jan 31, 2021 13:17:23 GMT
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Have you had the carpet up? Can't remember if the 205 has removable captive nuts so may just be able to replace that
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Jan 31, 2021 13:21:59 GMT
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I haven't taken it entirely up as I would have to remove passenger seat and parts of dash as well and then remove the sound deadening etc below. But the part where the seat bolts into that has broken free is solid metal each side. So I think I can just bolt/epoxy a bar across and bolt seat to that.
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Jan 31, 2021 15:41:54 GMT
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Helicoiling appears to have been a success. Just need some M8 bolts now. Also got to use my angle grinder to grind the remaining bolt from the seat rail. Always good fun. Need to find an appropriate bracket to use to fix/bodge the front seat mount.
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Jan 31, 2021 16:06:48 GMT
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Last Edit: Jan 31, 2021 16:11:06 GMT by joem83
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