2p2g1m
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Having a 205 and a 309 I have had experience of leaking sunroofs. On the 309 the drain tube from the roof to the rubber drain pipe had rusted away. The rain water then runs down the headlining into the footwell. Pull the headlining out and have a look. Is the headlining glued down? If so will it prove difficult to reattach neatly? It’s a one piece card type material. All comes out as one. Nice and easy. |
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,339 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Dec 12, 2020 18:08:53 GMT
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Oil change today, took the grand total of about ten minutes to do, very easy - other than I couldn't find the bloody sump plug, spent twenty minutes looking for it ... it was in my bucket of old engine oil. Doh. I also spent a bit of time attacking the engine with Gunk degreaser and powerwashing the bottom of the engine (staying as far away from any electrics as i could!). Looking a bit shinier. Still not entirely clear where the engine coolant drain plug is .... It’s either on the radiator or it doesn’t have one. There isn’t one on the block if that’s what you are looking for.  |
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Dec 12, 2020 19:16:28 GMT
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Nice to see your cracking on with this, I think you have nearly done more than I have on my Golf in 5 years 🤦🏼♂️😂
If you want to be sure it's cleaned, remove the feed and return from the radiator, stick a hose in the return side and back flush it through the block.
Can do the same for the rad and heater matrix.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,339
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Dec 12, 2020 19:23:46 GMT
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I’ve certainly never seen a coolant drain plug on a TU engine and I’ve worked on plenty. May have just never really been looking but I’d just take it as it doesn’t have one. Most ‘more modern’ cars don’t have a block drain. Just flush through with a hose as said.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,339
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Dec 17, 2020 20:02:43 GMT
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It's not correctly tensioned to be riding off the cam pulley under load like that. Either the tensioner isn't correctly set or you've tensioned it the wrong way (clockwise not anticlockwise or whatever, I don't have the instructions to hand).
The crank pulley bolts are just standard 8.8 tensile bolts. Don't bother buying online, just find a local hardware supplier and ask for three in the correct thread, Will cost pence.
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Dec 19, 2020 15:52:01 GMT
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Thanks! I think I sorted it, tensioner was not set up correctly.  I went to fit the radiator today... didn't fit. So I went on my Autodoc account and found the rad I apparently ordered was a van wezel that it said didn't fit my car and not the nissens I thought I ordered. Eh? So after speaking to them it turns out the one I ordered was out of stock so they sent one with "the same characteristics". Well it was identical other than being 15mm wider and therefore not fitting... so after an argument they are going to send me the right one. Painful. It looks like it now won't be till after Christmas until I get the cooling system reinstalled and then the engine running again. Then provided all is well the priority list is finding the oil leak and doing front brakes. I can then get the car insured and on the road. And then engine mounts and drive shafts will remain on my to do... |
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Dec 22, 2020 16:14:36 GMT
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Radiator in today. Bit a problem - the coolant level sensor (at least I think it is the coolant level sensor!) doesn't fit!. Why ...  |
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Dec 22, 2020 17:33:47 GMT
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So I actually think the problem is the existing radiator is not for a TU engine - which will be why it isn't plugged in. Haynes says "the coolant level sensor is located in the radiator right-hand side tank on XV, XW and XY series engines and in the expansion tank on all other engines". So it being in the rad on my TU3 doesn't seem right - so maybe I just need to source a cap.
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Dec 22, 2020 18:11:10 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 22, 2020 18:15:26 GMT by joem83
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Dec 23, 2020 10:40:37 GMT
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A chap on FB with two 205s one with a TU3 and one with an X-series is adamant that the TU3 sensor is in the rad, like mines. His suggestion is it a cheap curse word pattern rad - though it is a Nissens, which is a decent brand I thought. I have asked the seller of the rad to comment ...
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Dec 31, 2020 13:38:23 GMT
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Unfortunately those are not the right wheel bolts. The newer cars have a different bore through the wheels, I know because I bought a set like this and they’ve been gathering dust in my workshop ever since!! These bolts arrived today and they do appear to fit! |
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skinnylew
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,717
Club RR Member Number: 11
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Dec 31, 2020 14:42:26 GMT
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Hang in there your doing fine! Really enjoyed reading this thread, reminds me of the days when i first started tinkering with cars, also reminds me that there are loads of helpful people on this forum.
Can't go too far wrong with a TU engine, they were put in loads of things Citroen and Peugeot related and some no french stuff as well!
I've got experience with them by virtue of owning 3 Citroen Ax's and 2 Peugeot 106's currently. They are hardy little engines and go well.
With regards to bleeding it all there are sometimes little bleed valves with tyre valve type caps on. But generally with not real header tank to speak of bleeding is a bit irritating but not too bad. To drain down i've always just undone the big screw on the bottom of the rad and run a hose through the rad.
You've picked a great starter for sure!
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Last Edit: Dec 31, 2020 14:42:43 GMT by skinnylew
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Dec 31, 2020 19:49:31 GMT
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Thanks! I like having this thread (and the one I have on PH) as I can ask stupid questions and normally get a helpful answer! I don't know anyone in real life that I could ask those questions of.
I just need to find some high tensile m6 bolts to get the crankshaft pulley back on and then I can turn the key and see if the engine still runs!
I drained the rad like you suggested so should be okay.
I have found the (or at least a) oil leak. Once I washed the bottom of the engine and got the years of gunk off it appears there is a gearbox leak. Not immediately apparent from where, it is pooling on the bottom, but not enough to drip onto my drive (at least whilst cold). To investigate further...
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,339
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Dec 31, 2020 23:04:37 GMT
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Thanks! I like having this thread (and the one I have on PH) as I can ask stupid questions and normally get a helpful answer! I don't know anyone in real life that I could ask those questions of. I just need to find some high tensile m6 bolts to get the crankshaft pulley back on and then I can turn the key and see if the engine still runs! I drained the rad like you suggested so should be okay. I have found the (or at least a) oil leak. Once I washed the bottom of the engine and got the years of gunk off it appears there is a gearbox leak. Not immediately apparent from where, it is pooling on the bottom, but not enough to drip onto my drive (at least whilst cold). To investigate further... The bolts aren’t high tensile. Just standard 8.8. That’s why you broke one. As I said they aren’t anything special. Just shallow head flanged 13mm bolts. Some 13mm bolts the correct length with small washers will do the same job, replace all 3 to match. |
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,339
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Thanks. I may be confused, but I thought 8.8 = high tensile? Also I think they are m6 = 10mm. The bolts that came with the replacement pulley that don't fit look to be 13mm... 8.8 is standard minimum requirement to be of automotive use so for automotive purposes above 8.8 is HT and 8.8 is just regular. I mean 13mm head. Apologies. |
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You might actually be able to get them direct from local Peugeot s
Parts department.
There are always local companies you never knew about that specialise it fixings (have a look on yell.com)
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Might as well do that then, I have had some good quality allen bolts off ebay tbf.
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Yup just ordered them. Cannot wait for them to arrive and not fit... Haha, to be fair, I got the correct size on the 3rd order... 🤣 |
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,339
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Thanks understood. Couldn't find 8.8 bolts of the right size at B and Q or Toolstation and I don't seem to have a proper hardware store nearby...Ebay it will have to be. If you have a Tool station or B&Q (which you are right, don't stock actual graded bolts) you must have a Halfords? They usually carry a stock of nuts and bolts. |
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jonxs
Part of things
Posts: 650
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Hey there buddy love the 205. I may be able to help you with the bolts and other curse word. I've collected more than I can imagine haha
Keep it up they're very simple engines really. You'll getthere
Where abouts are you located? Sorry I'm looking through the Tapatalk app.
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Ax GTi Turbo