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Oct 18, 2021 19:43:27 GMT
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[quote author=" nickwheeler" source="/post /2702179/thread" timestamp="1634549126"] To remove the pistons simply get a brake pipe fitting, tap it for a grease gun fitting from a ball joint or similar and then pump the calliper full of grease. This never fails but is a little messy. Once done clean out all the grease and then get the worst of the rust off the callipers and put them in a bucket of hot water with some citric acid. I've just done this on a pair of rear callipers from a jaguar 420 and they have come up great and are ready to rebuild. The only thing i've done that is a subject of contention is i've split the callipers in two to make it easier to clean them out. A lot of people say not to do this but an equal amount say its fine and I can't find any reason not to but it makes it easier to clean them out properly. If the calipers are rare and/or expensive then spending a lot of time and effort on them becomes more worthwhile - I've a friend who says repairing a pair of callipers paid for the milling machine he used to do the job. But those were for an Espada, not a Cortina. The amount of grot hidden behind the dust seals, the state of the fluid that was left in these and that the pistons don't move at all when they should just pop out suggest that getting them out would be more of an autopsy than an repair. That's something to consider when new ones have been fitted and the car is in use.[/quote] Quote of the week. Truly summarises this episode. |
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Last Edit: Oct 18, 2021 19:44:09 GMT by grizz
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redratbike
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,827
Member is Online
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Oct 18, 2021 19:47:48 GMT
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“ i think as part of the future proofing for a potential 200bhp/800kg it makes sense fitting new parts.”
i sense a turbo conversion appearing in the future
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Oct 18, 2021 20:11:16 GMT
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[quote author=" redratbike" source="/post/2702279 /thread" timestamp="1634586468"]“ i think as part of the future proofing for a potential 200bhp/800kg it makes sense fitting new parts.” I sense a turbo conversion appearing in the future [/quote] FLASHBACKI seem to recall this 1800cc engine had around 100k miles on it. Given to me by Darren….. September last year. From what I understand, they do 147bhp standard, and accept a bolt on turbo that then heads for 200bhp reasonably easily. So why not build, drive, enjoy the 1600 with its 109bhp and bench build a turbo motor. Another learning experience. So next stop, inside a container, crawling through a caravan body....... To this.   Gearbox side.  Comes with a wiring loom, hopefully the ECU is somewhere too. Should be in there.  I need to find a pair of single point anchor, but over both shoulders seat belts, either to buy or at least know they will work. This design will not work. And found one 5 point harness. May not be the right thing for the car and seats I have , but hopefully it works, and once I have a second one, which Bill in Scotland has a Black example of. Displayed on the Vauxhall Viva’s hood, where Burger lives.  |
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Last Edit: Oct 18, 2021 20:15:29 GMT by grizz
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,341 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Oct 18, 2021 21:37:30 GMT
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That just looks like the main power harness on the 'floor engine', the MX5 doesn't have a separate engine loom, the engine loom is integrated into the main car harness. I had the same with the Demio unpicking the loom removing what I didn't need.
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Going back to the brakes ...and while the wallet is open ! ... what state is the master cylinder in ?
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The 1.8 puts out around 135bhp it think there was a later VVT engine which put out around 150bhp as well. There are plenty of turobed 1.6's around, people say they are smoother and rev better(only ever driven the 1.8 myself). It looks like the cam sensor may be missing out of the back of the LH cam if so check water hasn't got it.
You will also need the maf sensor and oxygen sensor.
I would suspect the wiring between mk2 1.8 and the 1.6 you have is the same, in which case the 1.8 will run on the 1.6 ecu to start with and it would need replacing if you went turbo anyway.
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Oct 19, 2021 18:39:06 GMT
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Popped into Kevins place today on the way home from getting a haircut. His build is really getting on now. Not bad for a retired well over 70 and never built a car, kinda guy. He is so energised and excited right now.   Love these castings. Still to be attached.  Then back to meeting 4/5 for the day. My butt and back hurts. |
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Oct 19, 2021 19:17:40 GMT
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That really does look stunning,
The paint choice is perfection,
Nigel
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BMW E39 525i Sport
BMW E46 320d Sport Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 325 Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 320 Cabriolet (Project car - currently for sale.)
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Oct 19, 2021 19:22:17 GMT
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That just looks like the main power harness on the 'floor engine', the MX5 doesn't have a separate engine loom, the engine loom is integrated into the main car harness. I had the same with the Demio unpicking the loom removing what I didn't need. I will investigate all of that some time, once the car is actually on the road. For now….. just a dream. |
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Oct 19, 2021 19:32:26 GMT
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Going back to the brakes ...and while the wallet is open ! ... what state is the master cylinder in ? LOL….. You and Paul Y make a formidable spending team.  Other side.   Speaking of brakes, having seen the cost of rear brake drums at around £100.00 per pair, I will need to find out if anyone in the Medway are can stick them on a lathe and clean them up for me. Happy to reuse them if the can be cleaned up. So I took the remaining complete unit apart….. Greasy.  Had thought that part of the brake lining was missing as the other side looked like this. Nope, that is what the look like.  .jpg)  Was chatting with Tony westbay earlier about the price of the drums. Looked at the price of shoes…… Crazy. £13.00 for 4 includes shipping. How??  Hardware/fitting bits are more than the shoes. Guess I need to order the shoes if I can find a machinist. |
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Last Edit: Oct 19, 2021 19:34:54 GMT by grizz
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Oct 19, 2021 19:36:40 GMT
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The 1.8 puts out around 135bhp it think there was a later VVT engine which put out around 150bhp as well. There are plenty of turobed 1.6's around, people say they are smoother and rev better(only ever driven the 1.8 myself). It looks like the cam sensor may be missing out of the back of the LH cam if so check water hasn't got it. You will also need the maf sensor and oxygen sensor. I would suspect the wiring between mk2 1.8 and the 1.6 you have is the same, in which case the 1.8 will run on the 1.6 ecu to start with and it would need replacing if you went turbo anyway. Looks like I need to get this on the road first before I get too clever. That really does look stunning, The paint choice is perfection, Nigel For sure. |
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Oct 19, 2021 20:17:22 GMT
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Oct 19, 2021 20:58:17 GMT
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Just engine swapped a lupo, the loom for that is basically integrated so with the wiring diagrams we unpicked the car wiring and left the ecu to engine connections This is the unpicked sport loom  We had to unpick the existing loom and match the 2 looms back together  I’d think that what you want to do will be slightly easier (?) as you aren’t looking to integrate into an existing loom. We spent a couple of evenings preparing the new engine loom and working stuff out and then when the engine came out it was the best part of the day sorting, soldering and heat shrinking etc |
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Oct 19, 2021 21:02:43 GMT
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Perfect Thank you. In other news, was chatting with my mate Darren in Queenborough, Isle of Sheppey earlier. Looks like I may be throwing both drums on one of his large lathes on Sunday to see if I can clean/sand them back and probably media blast the outsides. May just be a cheaper solution . |
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Oct 19, 2021 21:06:25 GMT
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Just engine swapped a lupo, the loom for that is basically integrated so with the wiring diagrams we unpicked the car wiring and left the ecu to engine connections This is the unpicked sport loom We had to unpick the existing loom and match the 2 looms back together I’d think that what you want to do will be slightly easier (?) as you aren’t looking to integrate into an existing loom. We spent a couple of evenings preparing the new engine loom and working stuff out and then when the engine came out it was the best part of the day sorting, soldering and heat shrinking etc A-MAY-ZIIING !! That is some clever electrickery. I want basic, and to be honest, would prefer all new wiring as that which is there, is a mess and been cut. I have never done more than wire a plu up, guess this is just many plugs? |
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,362
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Oct 19, 2021 21:19:45 GMT
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It’s definitely worth trying to clean up those drums first. A good hit with the wire brush on an angle grinder to get the worst off. If the friction faces aren’t scored then they don’t need skimming.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Oct 19, 2021 21:23:52 GMT
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It’s definitely worth trying to clean up those drums first. A good hit with the wire brush on an angle grinder to get the worst off. If the friction faces aren’t scored then they don’t need skimming. Knotwheel of truth. tm Paul Y |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,063
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Oct 19, 2021 21:43:00 GMT
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I would say take the original front discs when you get the drums put in the lathe. As the old metal brake parts seem to be much better quality than all the newer stuff  But you have new discs already  Is there a reason for using some scavenged engine loom instead of the wiring from the yellow car grizz? Or have I missed something  |
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Oct 19, 2021 21:55:31 GMT
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I would say take the original front discs when you get the drums put in the lathe. As the old metal brake parts seem to be much better quality than all the newer stuff But you have new discs already Is there a reason for using some scavenged engine loom instead of the wiring from the yellow car grizz? Or have I missed something Yes on older quality. No the spare engie comes with random loom stuff It certainly is a longer term future problem to solve. Finding masses of power…. Maybe the turbo route. |
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Something to consider ...
Some of the MX5 have an immobliser in the ECU, if you have such, donated engine and/or the 'yellow peril' then I think you also need the key, ignition lock and the ring around the ignition lock or I think you can pay to have the immobiliser part of the ECU deleted ( expensive ? who does it ? how do you identify which ECU has it ?) ...
Some early imports have it when same version/year UK cars did not ...
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2021 8:01:38 GMT by westbay
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To remove the pistons simply get a brake pipe fitting, tap it for a grease gun fitting from a ball joint or similar and then pump the calliper full of grease. This never fails but is a little messy.
