Welding quote_ expert views required SORTED, TA

It all depends upon what type of job you are looking for - if it's just something to keep the car on the road and get it through the test I would have thought somewhere in the £200 - £250 range but don't expect it to come back with a perfect profile and in matching paint for that money - it will be repair sections from sheet steel formed around what is there to make it solid enough to get it through a test with underseal slapped over it - that's providing you don't find the perforated rot running away with its self on the inner sill & floor pan - its all too often hard to tell until you get into this type of work - you could end up paying vat on that too should the garage be vat registered hence heading into the £300 region - you may find someone cheaper but its like everything in life you get what you pay for

Thanks both - really helpful. It is good elsewhere and the areas beyond the chalk are whackable with a hammer so pretty localised I think. What hasn't helped is that on the side pictured (the worst) the car had a knock a few years ago which deformed that area so possibly has added to the lack of integrity there.

For me, that kind of price = not worth it. Maybe I'll park it round the back and invest £150 in a second hand welder and try and learn to weld. That would be a better use of the cash I think...

I'm in Mirfield Bryan - don't know if you know it. It's towards Hudders off the A62 Leeds Rd or M62 J25. PM me a contact number if you like?

Thanks everyone else for views.

I can weld, I have equipment, I have a Honda, it also rusts in the same places, I too am attached.

Considering the above. I pay someone else to do it.

It’s not easy to a good job of it and I don’t weld enough or do body work enough to do it properly. It really is worth the money to have someone do it for you who does this work daily. I say this as someone that will refuse to pay people to do work to the extent that I fix my own boiler at home.

I generally have to get this done every few years, costs about £250 a side for a whole arch, after a bit of haggling and offering incentives of being an easy customer and understanding the work involved.

I go to people who do accident repair and are the garage for the local Mercedes dealer, as they usually will do major work on smashed up expensive cars, something like this is a simple job to them. Also they always do a good job for the price.

I’ve found general body shops can get all funny telling you it’s going to be a big job and try frighten you in to thinking it’s bad and therefore quote you four times the price.

Cant quite tell what model, but a pair of full sills for a Jazz are £112 delivered:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-JAZZ-GD-2002-2008-FULL-SILL-REPAIR-PANEL-ROCKER-PANEL-PAIR/273612313630?fits=Model%3AJazz%7CCars+Year%3A2004&hash=item3fb490941e:g:Tk0AAOSwvWVfOWHX

If you have had it that long and the only thing wrong with it is that, I'd be tempted to repair it.

If there are lots of other things getting near to be end of life then that might be different.

Cant get much for under £1k thats going to better than what you have (if it's a 15 y/o Honda it's proabably got the same issue!)

I like to work out cost of repairs vs current value (whilst MOT failure) - add them together and then see what car I can get for the same money. Also work out how much your car is worth now/repaired if it's only worth the same when repaired, the devide your loss over how long your keeping it and see if your happy to loose that amount. Say it's worth £500 either way & £300 to repair it, but you only want to keep it 12m then your going to loose £300/£25pm over the next year.

Good result. Definitely worth keeping a car you know and like on the road for that cost.

Ha no, thank god. Different spots, different sides, different cars. 80/90s Hondas always rust in the rear arches