A little more rattle can satin black this time to the battery retainer, before finishing off cleaning and detailing the rest of the trunk area at the weekend. Had the battery on charge with the CTEK so everything should be good to go!
This is the last panel in the trunk area to be painted. The radiator cowling and brake servo surround will go off to the powder coaters a bit later. This panel, that covers the hoses in the bottom of the trunk, cleaned up pretty well with the help of a can of Nitromoors... Will have to wait until next week for paint though
Here is the trunk area after a few days of cleaning. To be honest, I am a little disappointed that I wasn't able to get it better but the underseal in the trunk is the oil based type and just doesn't shift. The only way would be to strip everything out and use a wire brush attachment with an electric drill but where do you start and where do you finish? You'd have to take the whole boot area back to bare metal and start again and you'd end up removing all the "still good" original zeibart still in place, which wouldn't be right because that's what's saved the car.
The good news is it's incredibly solid and original in there with no welding ever carried out. I didn't appreciate how wafer thin the metal was in these cars and I'm amazed it's lasted 5-years let alone 51-years!
My instinct is to spray a clear coating of waxoil over the area now it's cleaned, but after putting the effort into cleaning it I don't want to be putting back an oil based residue. Can anyone recommend what is a good spray protectorant to put onto metal. I have heard GT85 is good because of the PTFE in it?
Plan to replace the positive battery lead to engine, that runs under the car from front to back, but that will have to wait for now. Cut back the cable an inch and fitted a new clamp on connector, which will be fine until I can get the car up on a ramp to change the actual cable..
It's just a socket for the CTEK charger that stays connected on your battery terminals. Saves having to connect crocodile clips each time and has a traffic light indicator to show the state of the battery.
Ok so, thanks to all the guys on the question section, I now know how to fit the pump correctly via a relay and manual on/off switch. Just need to now run another length of wire through from the engine bay to the dash for the switch. It's a bummer because I already put back the rear seats and door cards etc, after taking them out to get the first wire through from the engine in the rear to the battery in the front of the car for the pump feed... and believe me, removing the interior on this car is not easy!
Pump finally fitted and wired in via relay, with micro switch fitted and concealed under dash to double as an imoblliser. Have not had time to plumb it all in yet but hope to get to it in the next week or so.
Have had this small fuel pump blanking plate made up for the car. Managed to find a machine shop who were happy to make a one-off for me. They even offered to make it the same day so not bad for £15 quid
The washer bag on my car was pretty roached out and needed replacing. I couldn't find an original Simca one, but I managed to find this period Lucas part one. Would liked to have kept it original but some stuff just isn't available.