91 Saab Classic 900 Aero T16S - Copart Survivor

I have just realised that those switchpacks would of also been in early mk2 900's so yours may not be original. I find them better as they don't stick like the flat 900 switchpack.

In reply to the primaries swap, It was so damn difficult getting the 7's off my old box I don't think I would do a good job of it ....

I don’t think it’s original, although it doesn’t really matter as these cars are hardly that way inclined; in fact I like that you can add your own personal touches and upgrades without the classic police coming down you; no one cares luckily, as they aren’t worth much and don’t really have a huge following.

In other news, the gearbox was removed yesterday and aside from a chipped reverse gear, which I hear is common, she reported well.

A few pics:






The clutch took a grand total of 10 minutes to remove, and it’s even quicker with the engine in apparently! The bog standard 2010 Audi A4 we went to the garage in takes 5 hours!

I feel you're wrong on the valuation front - ie that they aren't worth much - I realise yours is slightly different (in as much as it's been an insurance write-off?) but there was a recent anglia car auction where a v clean (and green, which I didn't think was the best colour) 900 turbo achieved £22,000 (plus auction fees). 

Here's the link to it in fact:


angliacarauctions.co.uk/classic/results/sat-22nd-sun-23rd-august/1993-saab-900-se-turbo/ 

Whether we're at the stage, like E30 bmw's are at, where originality counts for so much, remains to be seen, but they have a tremendously loyal following, there aren't many left, they are modern enough to get parts, the whole family fits in them (so as a third car, high-days and holidays, as it were) so it ticks that box - and they are surprisingly quick too.  

I think you've bought and invested in an absolute cracking car tbf. And you might even make a profit too!

£22,000, yes, but for a 10,000 miles car - a ‘unicorn’ car; a similarly low mileage e30 325i motorsport could well be 3 times that much. A good ‘honest’ T16S is around 8 grand, you are right they are rare, and even ones that look nice on the surface will almost certainly have some rust. Parts are cheap but not always easy to find, but rust is rust and depending upon where it is, not cheap if you factor in paint. What I’ve done almost makes sense; while I may not turn a profit, I won’t lose much and at least I’ll know what’s been done and to a good standard.

Thanks Thom!

I'm with 60six , do the lot at once to avoid potential hassle in the future (there are alternatives to angle grinders and crowbars by the way). If you decide to replace the clutch hose I would opt for a HEL braided one that Saabits sell too because it has fewer connections.

I assume you mean the slave, but yes. there are other methods. I'll see if I can find photos of how I did it later.

EDIT: pic found. Undo the pressure plate bolts, use a tyre lever or a crowbar to pry it off the flywheel and stick wedges in between, install home-made clutch tool, remove wedges, remove slave.

My spacer is a piece of TIG welding rod. I have a Bentley manual, but I also have a factory manual, so the Bentley doesn't get much use. It's much better than a Haynes manual though.

I have a paper factory manual in two binders, I also have proper Bentley books and I'm pretty sure I have both the 8V and 16V version in PDF as well if anyone needs them.

You don't have to buy Steve Lewis' overpriced corner units if you want front reversing lights; you can convert standard ones with a Dremel and an additional indicator bulb holder.