logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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This is one of the coolest rods I have ever seen.
What's the name of the app your using I can't find anything that looks like it in the play store.
D
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,223 
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Jul 19, 2024 12:17:45 GMT
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2024 12:22:24 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Jul 19, 2024 20:41:25 GMT
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Thanks jimi
Not available for my version of android. That explains why I can't find it LOL.
I'll look out another device to see if it works on the older version.
Thanks
D
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2024 21:43:57 GMT by logicaluk
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 19, 2024 21:00:52 GMT
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Outside the Leopard, legendary!!! That end of town is weirdo/smackhead central, but it’s a damn fine looking building. |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 19, 2024 21:05:29 GMT
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logicaluk yeah it’s just called ‘gps race timer’. A mate asked the same as he couldn’t find it either, it might actually only be for apple, I’m not sure. It gets strong reviews especially in the states for being regarded as the best no frills, no bullsh1t, no ads app that just works and is accurate. It just does everything for you and It’s so accurate it notices you rolling forwards in the staging lane and you have to reset it every car length you move, so I think it’s measuring of distance especially is very good.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,223
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Jul 19, 2024 21:30:15 GMT
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It's available for Android but needs Nougat (Android 7.0) as a minimum.
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Jul 19, 2024 21:54:00 GMT
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I'm running Android 11 on this phone.
I found it on cnet.
Now downloaded and installed.
Thanks everyone.
D
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Outside the Leopard, legendary!!! That end of town is weirdo/smackhead central, but it’s a damn fine looking building. Tis indeed, had many a good night in there and one of the scooter clubs used to have there weekly meets there. Donny centre is just awful, I've recently moved to the outskirts (Cadeby) and would rather go into Barnsley if I need town centre things! |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 22, 2024 14:29:13 GMT
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That end of town is weirdo/smackhead central, but it’s a damn fine looking building. Tis indeed, had many a good night in there and one of the scooter clubs used to have there weekly meets there. Donny centre is just awful, I've recently moved to the outskirts (Cadeby) and would rather go into Barnsley if I need town centre things! All the inlaws are in Conisbrough now, so I see more of that ends than I used to. I still generally avoid Donny town centre though 😂 |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 22, 2024 14:30:59 GMT
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Jul 24, 2024 14:33:52 GMT
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Dez, do you have any info on the low black 40s kustom thingy
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 24, 2024 16:37:44 GMT
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Dez, do you have any info on the low black 40s kustom thingy At the car show in the next town? I think it proported to be a Cadillac, but I couldn’t see much caddy in it! It appeared to have the entire running gear of a modern mustang under it, other than that I’m not sure, I only had a quick Look at it. |
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 24, 2024 18:37:34 GMT
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Fixing that wheel. I dragged the spare out of the barn. It’s not as good as i remembered, but hey I have a spare 90 year old wheel which is no bad thing.  As the rim bed was rather ventilated (probably the reason it was relegated the ‘spare’ out to the 5 I had), I elected to make one good rim out of the two. This isnt really that hard on wheels like this. First drill some rivets and knock them out-   Then I just slit through the knackered rim as it was junk, and it fell off the centre.  I then removed the wheel with the knackered centre off the car, and wrestled the tyre off. Here’s a close up of the centre, this is after I’d hammered it flat again to get me home, all the bolt hole areas were proper pulled through. This is the left wheel, Notice the damage is all to the torque side of the holes, not the braking side.  Some bits of it are still attached to the spacer!  I did the same rivet drilling to this one, then just whacked the centre with the sledgehammer as I didn’t have to worry about damaging it.  Then the ‘new’ centre tapped into place and the rivet holes lined up with a taper punch.  This was surprisingly accurate, it had about 1mm runout. I got it down to about 0.5 running it against an axle stand and tapping it back and forth. That’s plenty good enough for a wheel like this. Then I welded it rather than riveting it. I could have riveted it but there was no point really.   Then I spent ages sanding down the burnt paint-  And put some fresh on.  It’s a non-catalyst paint though so I’ll leave it a few days before refitting the tyre. |
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Last Edit: Jul 24, 2024 18:39:47 GMT by Dez
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
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Jul 24, 2024 20:49:37 GMT
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Are you not worried that you'll simply wreck that one in short order too?
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 24, 2024 21:02:39 GMT
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Are you not worried that you'll simply wreck that one in short order too? Yes and no. It’s a 90 year old wheel and I don’t know how it was treated for the first 85ish years. These were replacements brought in from the states by a mate after I lost two in the fire. He dragged them out of a bush on some Midwest prairie land farm somewhere so anything could have happened to them. . It was sandblasted and visually inspected, but than can only tell you so much. It’s been on a year and I’ve driven it quite hard, just not *quite* as hard as I was driving the other weekend on a closed runway with a free reign to showboat for the crowds 😉😬 I know I was pushing it hard, and I know how much it took to break it. I mean the other 3 are still ok, so maybe if it was just a bad wheel. . If I break it again in the same way, then ill start to worry about finding a tougher option. |
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Jul 25, 2024 20:27:15 GMT
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I doesen't look like a fatigue failure, more like the wheel isn't being clamped properly, might be worth checking the nuts aren't bottoming out etc
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Those cracks definitely look fatigue-ey though, like the wheel has been rattling back and forth for a while. I think kevins might be right. Check the wheels are being clamped down properly because something doesn’t look right there. Even if it’s something not visibly obvious like a 45° taper on the nut sat in a 55° seat, something has caused those cracks to propagate over time. |
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I'd agree that the damage and tears have occurred as the wheel has moved, the fact that there are no cracks around any of the undamaged areas of the stud holes would reinforce the theory that the wheel moving was the root cause of the failure. The theory behind a wheel joint (or pretty much any similar joint) is that the studs clamp the wheel to the hub and the friction between the hub and wheel transfers the torque, the studs should only see the clamping and lateral loads from cornering, if the friction fails and the studs have to start transferring the torque it is almost inevitable the joint will fail. As said above there are 2 factors that need to be checked, making sure the wheel is seing the full clamp load and improving the friction of the joint(removing paint from mating surfaces and sand blasting the spacers to get rid of what looks like a mirror finish would be a good start).
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Last Edit: Jul 26, 2024 7:34:29 GMT by kevins
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One thing I don't see is any sign of fretting on the spacer. Usually there is a dull blackish look where it had rubbed.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 26, 2024 13:50:43 GMT
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The wheel nuts will bottom out on the spacer so there is nothing I can see to stop it clamping properly.  As said there is no wear or rub to the spacer. The wheel doesn’t appear to have been moving before catastrophic failure. All the marks on the spacer seem to be from the wheel detaching. All 5 wheel nuts where still attached and done up the same amount. A couple still had chunks of wheel nut seat still done up under them as shown. Also it’s quite telling that the threads at the base of the studs have pretty much no damage, as you’d expect from a wheel banging back and forth. It seems all the damage was done in one run. The wheel certainly wasn’t loose or moving around before that run, it didn’t even really make any great noise when it went, one clunk then the wheel was off. . There is quite a lot of stress cracking on the wheel. I left it out in the rain and the surface rust has highlighted this-  It is a fairly odd failure but have seen it happen before. It’s the sort of thing that always gets blamed on loose nuts but I know for a fact this wasn’t the case. I just think the way the wheel was being used was *so* far outside the remit of what a 1935 pressed steel wheel for a 85hp car was designed for that’s what caused the failure. I’ve got wider tyres, over 3 times the power, and I was doing a forcibly induced powerslide in second gear at 45+ mph. The steel on these centres is only actually about 3mm which is thin compared to later model steels. |
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Last Edit: Jul 26, 2024 14:01:48 GMT by Dez
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