1928 Ford Model A Sedan- Drag it til the wheels fall off…

Mate of mine had a 390fe powered 32 Ford many years ago except it couldn't have been because the expert who appeared when we were out said they didn't make engines that big, it was a Rover.

I can tell you it looks awesome

does look awesome, enjoy the fame, it's well deserved

More small refinements.
First I remembered to renew my VHRA membership. I do bang on about it but they hands down do the best member freebies. Every year it’s some cool little thing.
I don’t actually need this years as I’ve had one of those plug gappers on my keys since I was a teenager so it’ll stay mounted to the card, which is nice as it preserves the artwork.


Speaking of plugs, I’ve been chasing a misfire. I noticed the leads weeent great, they where just a set I had lying round, and everything else was all used/what came with the motor too. So after a rockauto order of plugs, leads, rotor, cap, points, condensor and the little earth strap in the dizzy, along with some carb adjustments, I’ve 95% eliminated it. I still get a slight stumble on changeover as I put the throttle in, but I think that’s down to carb setup now. The primary nozzle is the smallest they do and I reckon it needs a size or two up.


It’s all a bit fiddly as the dizzy is pretty tight to the firewall.


The fuel pump was also changed as it had a slight weep from the join. I thought this was a newish one but it’s dated 1977 so maybe not 🤣


So that’s all fresh before I start messing round with the carb as the final stage of tuning.


It’s getting better and better to drive. It really lays the power down now, the rear tyres are getting scrubbed in nicely 😬
I’ve got various other leaks to sort yet, namely the rad and the rear main.
I swapped the fanbelt to one an inch shorter as once it had stretched in the one I’d got was just a fraction too long, it seems to charge better now.

New job should be sort out some additional instrumentation really.

I’m pretty picky about such things tbh. After building so many cars you stop trying to cut corners on things like that as you end up forever chasing leaks, or spending just as much money doing it twice.


All hardlines are done in kunifer no matter what. All flexible fuel hose is codan only bought from one reputable source. Yes it’s expensive per metre but it’s cheaper than having a fire, or the labour to redo it after a year or two. I’ve been working on a car recently that has codan hose dated 2001 that’s in perfect condition. The non-brand-name hose next to it in identical conditions is heavily perished.
Only proper band clamps below 20mm, especially fuel line. I actually prefer the double wire ones but they’re hard to get these days so I use this style instead . Or crimps if space is tight. Mikalor T-bar type clamps on anything boost related. Tbh I’ll only use a jubilee if the hose stub land is too short to allow the width of a Mikalor style (like on the rad hose in the pic you’ve quoted)
The quality of modern jubilee style worm drive clips is terrible too, most of them break if using a proper hex head clipdriver rather than a screwdriver. By the time you’ve bought proper brand name ones that don’t break you can buy T-bar ones for the same money which can be done up way tighter.

Volksbits I think they’re called? They’re the only place I could find that was a verified codan dealer when I first started using them. There’s so much fake stuff around you’ve got to be real careful.

I order from CBS regularly but don’t really trust them. Some of what they sell is sh1te, a lot of it overpriced, and I won’t buy something as critical as fuel hose from a supplier who won’t tell you want brand it is or it’s rating.

It also really annoys me they still stock various other types of non-ethanol proof hose and advertise it on the same catalogue page. It’s useless (unless you’re using it for diesel) and downright dangerous. If they were truly reputable they wouldn’t be selling it and would explain why.

sounds like it was ticking over, what speed? 25/30? Must sound great when you wind it up

Gates are another, but the trick is to get the hose from a reputable source who will stand behind it. It's easy to fake the printing on cheap hose.

Colin

Be careful with gates. Afaik they don’t make/sell a R9 rated hose. If they do, nowhere stocks it and the one they try to sell you is R6 or R7. They then get uppity when you tell them it’s not good enough! I went to two separate suppliers on their word that they sold ‘ethanol proof’ hose, but what they gave me was not what they presented it as. There’s little point buying R6 or R7, as although it will last longer than cheap stuff, it isn’t ‘ethanol proof’ it will still deteriorate.