Jem45
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,021
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Hello All, I'm dealing with what has become a pretty serious oil leak on an E36 with the M43 engine. Unsurprisingly, the culprit was the oil filter housing where it mates with the block. The solution is new O-rings and a new gasket. www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CE32-EUR-03-1999-E36-BMW-318i&diagId=11_6110I've stripped down the various bits, cleaned everything up and fitted the rubber O-rings to the non-return valve (the old ones were rock hard like plastic so maybe that's the weak point) but am pondering the gasket replacement. The part is a paper gasket, rather than rubber, so am assuming I'll need to apply a gasket sealant of some sort. Question is, which one is best and how is it best applied? A lot of them seem to be 'instant gasket' type stuff in their own right, in which case why mate with an actual gasket? I don't want to end up with superfluous gunk in the engine chambers down the line. Anyone got any product recommendations and good practice tips? cheers, Nick |
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Carbs 'n chrome
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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If it has a paper gasket then you shouldn't need any extra sealant.
However, I tend to use something to allow the gasket to move and settle as it gets clamped.
If its it's anything to do with oil I use Loctite SI 5980.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,834
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I use Victor Reinz, Reinzosil I think it's called. Put a blob on your finger and thumb and rub it on the gasket so there's just a very thin coating on the surface.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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May 12, 2020 10:34:01 GMT
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I use Loctite SI 5923 (like treacle, smells as good too!) with paper gaskets, or Elring Dirko (silicone, stinks as hell) when a paper gasket is not desirable; application selection and technical information can be found on their websites.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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May 12, 2020 13:17:26 GMT
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By the way, some people rave about Hylomar Blue. I think it's proper horrible to work with and it stinks too...
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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May 12, 2020 13:19:34 GMT
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By the way, some people rave about Hylomar Blue. I think it's proper horrible to work with and it stinks too... Hi, You should try Wellseal, very good sealant but messy. Colin |
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Jem45
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,021
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May 12, 2020 14:58:07 GMT
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Thanks lads. Will do a bit of comparative price analysis and go from there. Applying a little bit in the way Stealthstylz has outlined can't do any harm/ will be belt and braces.
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Carbs 'n chrome
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Jem45
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,021
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Quick update - Loctite SL 5980, Hylomar and Reinzozil all around a fiver a tube and marketed variously as 'gasket sealant'/ 'instant gasket' etc.
Wellseal is well expensive! About £15 for 100 mls. Must be seal tax. Developed by Rolls Royce back in 1936 or something it seems, and targeted at the classic car market and specifically marketed as a jointing compound.
I'm not clear what the difference is between jointing compound and gasket sealant tbh unless its just semantics.
Can't find Loctite SI 5923 anywhere Melle. It's not on the Loctite website. Have you been hoarding a tube since the 70s?
Anyway, I'm going with Reinzozil...
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Carbs 'n chrome
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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Can't find Loctite SI 5923 anywhere Melle. It's not on the Loctite website. Have you been hoarding a tube since the 70s? It seems to go by different names, it used to be called "aviation sealant" and came in different grades. I bought the pot in the photo about 8-9 years ago in Denmark; it was rebranded "Mekonomen" (a car parts chain), but the original labels were underneath the Mekonomen label. It's out of date but still perfectly usable; a pot lasts ages as you only need a little. The previous pot I had was indeed from the '70s.  I think this is what was originally "grade 4". I don't think it matters much what you use, most sealants seem to do the job perfectly fine as long as you use a product specified for the application and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to degrease whatever you use a sealant on!
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Last Edit: May 13, 2020 9:45:48 GMT by melle
www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,834
Club RR Member Number: 174
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May 13, 2020 11:46:59 GMT
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As above cleaning is important. Thinners or Acetone is best rather than brake cleaner.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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May 13, 2020 18:43:29 GMT
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,834
Club RR Member Number: 174
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May 13, 2020 19:05:23 GMT
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I've no idea lol, it must do as the surface never feels clean when I've used brake cleaner. I can't even describe how clean feels though.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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May 13, 2020 19:54:40 GMT
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I see what you mean. I never use it on anything critical, but I must admit to often using brake cleaner before using liquid gasket. I let it evaporate and then wipe the surface with a rag. Probably not best practice, but it seems to have worked fine so far!
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Last Edit: May 13, 2020 19:55:11 GMT by melle
www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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May 13, 2020 20:23:07 GMT
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Wellseal has its uses might seem expensive but you really done need to use much, granted I'm only a hobbyist but I've built a few engines over the years and the tube is still going probably 10 years after I bought it.
gaskets in the main really shoudln't have (or need) anything put on them.
I haven't actually bought any sealant for ages as I've rebuiult/built quite a few gearboxes using replacement bearing kits and each one has come with a standard sized mastic tube of rtv sealant, obviously you really don't need much for one car gearbox so the tubes last ages!
no complaints at all, can't recall the brand but its included in the bearing kits from one stop gearbox shop.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,834
Club RR Member Number: 174
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May 13, 2020 21:26:31 GMT
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I see what you mean. I never use it on anything critical, but I must admit to often using brake cleaner before using liquid gasket. I let it evaporate and then wipe the surface with a rag. Probably not best practice, but it seems to have worked fine so far! That's often the case. There's a lot of "best practice" stuff that you'll probably never come a cropper with if you're a irregular user. On a normal week I build 7-10 engines so I could (and have) quickly found out when I've not cleaned something quite right. |
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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I was curious so looked up whether or not brake cleaner leaves anything behind. Everywhere says their product leaves no residue.
That dry white film it leaves on parts and my hands must be in my imagination then!
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May 14, 2020 18:00:34 GMT
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By the way, some people rave about Hylomar Blue. I think it's proper horrible to work with and it stinks too... That's weird, I've never had a problem with the smell of Hylomar, but I really hate the smell of the "Instant Gasket" silicon-based products, they always seem to smell terrible to me. |
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,834
Club RR Member Number: 174
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May 14, 2020 22:25:23 GMT
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 Forgot to mention this stuff is really good too, I prefer it to Wellseal. Quite expensive but it's also the best tasting if you bite your nails like I do. |
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Another vote for Reinzosil here.
Used to use Tectane carb cleaner for cleaning. Not sure what’s in it but it eats anything (including paint and some plastics so care needed!). Also great for recovering dried out magic markers and gunned paint brushes. Sadly Toolstation have stopped selling it so I have a supply issue.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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I think this is what was originally "grade 4".
