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I'm in awe. I've never moved in the kind of circles where people have their very own personal skip before. Wait 'til I tell the grandkids!  Wait till i tell the butler Personal skip indeed, it was actually a bit of an odd occurance, The company it belonged to went out of buisness and sold off all the equipment, the people they sold it too also went under. So at this point it had been sat around for a few years going rusty we had no idea who it belonged to and just started calling up a local company to come and empty it. No need for diodes if your going down the relay route  Nice saw, bandsaws are the dogs danglies for fab work  I think its going to get alot of use. The main reason i hadnt got one so far was the aformentioned vice issue, I always wanted one with a pivoting head and fixed vice. Happy to report i finished up the lights last night and they work spot on. Since i had the looms in pieces and was fitting a fog relay anyway it seemed the easiest way to go.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,219 
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Feb 10, 2021 21:20:36 GMT
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I know that on the last rig I was on, the 3 most used pieces of equipment in the welders shop were
1. Welding plant, mig, tig and stick
2. Handheld grinders, mains & battery
3. Bandsaw
All 3 were pretty much in constant use daily
From an electricians the most reliable (as in least time spent repairing them) were the welding plants and the bandsaw, grinders needed the most attention.
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Last Edit: Feb 10, 2021 21:21:53 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Feb 11, 2021 13:01:16 GMT
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I know that on the last rig I was on, the 3 most used pieces of equipment in the welders shop were 1. Welding plant, mig, tig and stick 2. Handheld grinders, mains & battery 3. Bandsaw All 3 were pretty much in constant use daily From an electricians the most reliable (as in least time spent repairing them) were the welding plants and the bandsaw, grinders needed the most attention. Sounds like i now have the holy trinity then
While my grinders are probably the most abused and very reliable i do keep having to cut the mains cable down due to snapped wires where it comes out the body.
Hopefully the bandsaw will prove to be as reliable. first off I'm thinking it could do with a coolant pump |
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,219
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Feb 11, 2021 13:48:04 GMT
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I'd definitely agree, the #1 killer of bandsaw blades was lack of coolant, causing the blades to overheat closely followed by lack of knowledge, ie knowing how to use the equipment properly, we fitted lockable e-stop buttons to prevent unauthorised use otherwise we would have been changing blades every other day. Fit a pump with a decent reservoir and even with just plain water it will make a big difference. Most of the better (read expensive) bandsaws already have pumps, pipework and nozzles fitted ready for coolant. If your cutting stainless get the feed and speed down low and have plenty coolant orbit will eat blades. Your were quite right in hanging fire until you got tyoe with the fixed jaw clamp, once setup they are great for accurate cuts. The others are a pain in the proverbial. If I had £ for every grinder cable I've changed/shortened I'd have retired years ago  internal breaks at the back body and hot metal damage are probably the most common faults. |
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Last Edit: Feb 11, 2021 13:52:27 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Feb 18, 2021 21:37:32 GMT
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Last weekend was skip rebuilding in the rain so this weekend i stayed dry and in the workshop hoping to make some more progress on the mr2 in there Rear lights are finished, the wiring is alot neater and simpler now. I have no idea what the person who originally did it was thinking. We have running lights  Brakes  Fogs  Next on the list I might have mentioned the fuel tank needed to come out, the issue was the pump was shorted to ground so had clearly failed. Or so i thought . . . Well now the car was up on the stands the tank can come out. A few hours layed on my back and she is down.  And out  Whats that i see? A busted wire? So what does that mean?  Well it means the pump isnt toast and the short i was measuring was the wire shorting out against the top of the tunnel. But since the current pump is the original one and the owner sent up a new fuel pump i changed it anyway. The old one is a little naaasty.  Ooh shiny  And don't forget to fix the damaged wire  The next thing to look at while the pump is out is the heater core lines  There is most definitely a leak at that bracket Not to mention seeping at both ends of each pipe   So they come out too. I'm starting to see why the connections were leaking Bits of rubber left fused to the pipe from the old hoses and the ends being bent out of shape wont help either.  Lets have a closer look at that leak now.  Yep its fractured at the bracket right where the solder ends. So there is a couple of options here, 1 - replace the pipe with another one. 2 - replace the pipe with a bit of rubber hose and some p clips. 3- repair the pipe. A cookie to anyone who can guess which option we are going to choose. Yes, you in the middle? “Repair the pipe” Correctemundo. I'm going to ave' a go at soldering up the pipe. So common courtesy is to clean up your crack before starting any work in that area.  A bit of filing to open it up a tad, and don't forget to clamp the bracket in place. Its soldered on so when you heat up the pipe it will drop off and you loose its location.  Apply heat, a liberal coating of flux and soldered up  Before re-fitting i cobbled up a quick pressure test. Turned some plugs  And pressured up.  Went around with the soapy water and couldn’t find any more leaks so we are good. The other hoses on the heater lines in the front were looking a bit shabby so the owner bought some new silicone hose and shiny clamps.  The ends of the pipes all got straightened and cleaned  Heater pipes back in and new hoses fitted.  Looking much better. At this point it’s valentines evening and for a change to the normal i got to spend it layed on my back and sweating and grunting. Yep the fuel tank needs to go back in. XD Since i was spending the evening in the shed the essentials had to be collected  And fuel tank is back in although i should have emptied it first, not doing that again. Or thats what i thought.  Buttoned up a bit more wiring and fired her up, it still looks like a birds nest but is actually pretty organised.  Ran surprisingly smooth, still no intake or exhaust so its LOUD and there is a few error codes i need to sort out, mainly both o2 sensor heater circuits. |
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,219
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Feb 18, 2021 22:12:11 GMT
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That fracture at the bracket is an extremely common failure on the MK2, I'd be concerned that it will fail again around the same area, make sure and check the other pipe very carefully. Also check the same area at the other end of both pipes, another common failure point.
It's quite common for owners to either shorten the pipe by cutting the bracket section off and fitting a longer hose and new securing brackets or completely replacing both pipes with hoses.
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Feb 18, 2021 22:46:57 GMT
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That fracture at the bracket is an extremely common failure on the MK2, I'd be concerned that it will fail again around the same area, make sure and check the other pipe very carefully. Also check the same area at the other end of both pipes, another common failure point. It's quite common for owners to either shorten the pipe by cutting the bracket section off and fitting a longer hose and new securing brackets or completely replacing both pipes with hoses. I knew it was a fairly common spot, especially when the car has seen a bit of work in the engine bay, but its the first one i have had to do.
As it happens your bang on the money, it must have cracked while refitting it as it looks like its seeping again. i misunderestimated the strength of the solder apparently.
next option is to buy some brass tig rods and weld it up properly or as you say to cut the pipe back or replace it all together.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,219
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Feb 21, 2021 19:51:26 GMT
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Bummer, no satisfaction in being correct
I have a suspicion that the pipe work hardens with age and vibration and will fracture again at the repair boundry, given that the pipes are pig to access once the car is back together I'd be wary of brazed/welded repairs.
The trouble is the options aren't great, shortening the pipe means making a new securing bracket and replacing completely with hose means your open to hose deterioration. I know of people who have replaced the pipes with new, but I'm not sure they are still available from MR T.
I also remember someone making replacement pipes from stainless tubing, probably wouldn't be that bad to do with the correct tube bender and bit of skill, possibly the route I would take if it was my car (fortunately MK1's don't suffer from a similar problem)
Shortening the pipe and a new bracket is probably the easiest option.
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Last Edit: Feb 21, 2021 19:53:03 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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I have been doing more work on the mr2 but its been wiring and tinkering so i will post more about that once there is something a bit more interesting to share. In the mean time last week we did a bit of trimming to the willow that insists on covering everything in white fluff as soon as spring arrives. it was way too big so one of them has been taken back to the stump as it was leaning over and smothering 2 conifers, the one next to it we took maybe half off just to keep the spring seed fall to a minimum and reclaim a bit of the garden.  Now just need to work out what i'm going to do with it all.  That however can be a problem for another day as i have a trip to make. Another MR2 to add to the collection.  This one has been sat for 15 years supposedly in a garage. Unfortunately it was a garage without a roof and the car has not fared well.  She was fairly well rooted in place by now and was not keen on moving. with all 4 wheels locked solid we slowly managed to drag her onto the trailer  The initial photos i had seen of the car made it look fairly good aside from the usual arch rust, as it happens they were the best bits of it. Back home we could have a look at her   The car had been dragged out of the garage by the new owner of the house and he neglected to mention that when he dragged it out that the drivers chassis rail got ripped off.  The back end isnt looking pretty either  none of the doors open so he smashed the window and left it exposed to all the elements for the past 3 weeks, as a result the inside is in rather poor condition  We managed to open the boot and found a few spares in there but nothing much. Even the ecu has rotted  We had a go at getting it to start. First off i turned the engine over by hand, it felt good and free which is nice. Starter motor just clicks though. Tried wholloping it but that didnt help so i swapped it out for a spare i had. She now cranks but still wont fire when spraying carb cleaner into the throttle I suspect a lack of spark but cant get the plug leads off at the moment so i left them soaking in plusgas.  Well then whats the plan with it? First off id like to get a bit of life out of the engine. Initially i was planning on storing it to restore later but there is some issues. First issue is the considerable damage and rust underneath, next issue is the fact that it has no vin plate so putting it back on the road is starting to get a bit more complicated. i have done a reg check and it all comes back clear so not sure whats going on there. I'm thinking the best option with this one is to use it for parts to save some others. Here are some more photos of the rusty spots    I know i could repair it but in this case don't think its justifiable with the amount of work and parts that would be required. Hopefully another one will come up that is saveable and the parts from this will live on in another.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,219
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I think your right, that one has had it unfortunately, it wouldn't be worth the time, effort and expense.
Hopefully there will be some salvagable parts, not so much on the bodywork judging by your pics.
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I think your right, that one has had it unfortunately, it wouldn't be worth the time, effort and expense. Hopefully there will be some salvagable parts, not so much on the bodywork judging by your pics. It has yeilded a good front drivers wing and a full c-pillar trim set so even just having those bits pretty much makes the car worth it. i now have the doors open and the rust doesnt get any better.
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thomfr
Part of things
Trying to assemble the Duett again..
Posts: 694
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Always handy to have a parts car on hand. Save a lot of time AND MONEY.
Thom
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73' Alfa Giulia Super
64' Volvo Duett
65' Volvo Duett
67' Volvo Amazon 123GT
09' Ford Focus 1.8
20' VW ID4
71' Benelli Motorella
65' Cyrus Speciaal
The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,219
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The rear window spoiler looks not bad as well, a good of C pillar trims is a great thing to have. Re the missing VIN plate if you look in the front boot at the bulkhead below the windscreen, almost directly in front of the steering wheel, about 1.5 inches below the rubber seal you should find the VIN number. It's only the number, none of the other info (transmission, colour, trim level etc) that us on the VIN plate that is normally riveted onto the forward bulkhead. I have a pic of the location on my car if you need it  |
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The rear window spoiler looks not bad as well, a good of C pillar trims is a great thing to have. Re the missing VIN plate if you look in the front boot at the bulkhead below the windscreen, almost directly in front of the steering wheel, about 1.5 inches below the rubber seal you should find the VIN number. It's only the number, none of the other info (transmission, colour, trim level etc) that us on the VIN plate that is normally riveted onto the forward bulkhead. I have a pic of the location on my car if you need it Yep i know about the number stamped into the chassis. i had tried entering it into the site i had used for the reg check but it seemed to think it was too short and wouldnt accept it. despite the fact that i compared it to the other 2 mk1s i have and that are all the same length. 
Unfortunatly the rear spoiler has a crack down it, i suspect from when the roof fell in. other than that it would have been in decent condition.
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Always handy to have a parts car on hand. Save a lot of time AND MONEY. Thom It is hugely helpfull to have parts around the place, it also might yeild some chassis cuts/repair panels too once i start getting it in pieces. |
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,219
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Thats odd, all MK1 VIN's are 17 characters if yours is 17 and your site says it's too short then your site is wrong. Mine is 17 and both places on the car + the V5 have the same number. The Toyota EPC will not recognise any VIN/Frame number that does not have the correct number of characters. Your number should start JT1C0AW11......... the character after the C is a zero not a capital o its an easy mistake to make, caught me out when I first started playing with the EPC Pity about the window spoiler  |
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Last Edit: Mar 8, 2021 10:54:51 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,219
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Just noticed your sig, a fellow Pratchett fan GNU Terry Pratchett |
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Thats odd, all MK1 VIN's are 17 characters if yours is 17 and your site says it's too short then your site is wrong. Mine is 17 and both places on the car + the V5 have the same number. The Toyota EPC will not recognise any VIN/Frame number that does not have the correct number of characters. Your number should start JT1C0AW11......... the character after the C is a zero not a capital o its an easy mistake to make, caught me out when I first started playing with the EPC Pity about the window spoiler It is 17 digits long, i assumed it was the site that was wrong after comparing it to the others but i really wasnt bothered enough to pay for another site to do a check when the reg has already come back clean. I don't know how much hassle it would be to have a new vin plate made and i really don't think its necessary for this one.
Have been a fan of Sir Terry since i learned to read, my dad made sure i read the good stuff. I was pleasently surprised by how many people on this forum are fellow Pratchett fans.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,219
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You shouldn't need the other vin plate, even if you wanted to try and get a V5 the number stamped on the bulkhead should be enough I did the same as your dad with my son & daughter both been Pratchett fans for years now. First book of his I read was The Colour of Magic in 1988 and I've read (many times) and still have every book he's written (or been involved with) definitely my all time favourite author |
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Last Edit: Mar 8, 2021 15:36:19 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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You shouldn't need the other vin plate, even if you wanted to try and get a V5 the number stamped on the bulkhead should be enough I did the same as your dad with my son & daughter both been Pratchett fans for years now. First book of his I read was The Colour of Magic in 1988 and I've read (many times) and still have every book he's written (or been involved with) definitely my all time favourite author I think my first one was either the Bromeliad or The amazing mourice, it was quite a while ago.
I never seem to find the time to read anymore so i have them all on audio book aswell and listen while I'm in the workshop. Just started the colour of magic again the other day. |
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internal breaks at the back body and hot metal damage are probably the most common faults.
