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Following the rear silencer delete experiment I wanted to at least get a ballpark figure for likely costs involved, however it turns out that our local stainless specialist looks to still be closed. Fair enough to be honest, not really surprised. To be honest there's one over in Cambridge which I'm probably going to be using anyway as several folks have recommended them to me. It's also about item 28374638 on the priority list. The horribly out of alignment tips had to go though as they made it look like I'd reversed into a low wall and made my OCD twitch every time I walked up to the car. The only way I could make them sit even with each other resulted in them pointing upwards by about 20 degrees, meaning the system filled up with water whenever it rained. The purists will probably hate me for it, but I reckon this both solves my immediate issue and actually looks better than the stock exhaust tip arrangement anyway. No it's not stock, but I think it doesn't look out of place. In my opinion, the spindly little double elbow looks right on the saloons, but something like this suits the XJ-S better.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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I like that style of tip. Always have done.
Looks very smart.
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No need to change anything now - that looks spot on!
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I had been wanting to try to get a decent recording of how different the Jag sounds and behaves when just gentle bumbling around (and with how different the character of the sound is with windows open vs closed) for a while. So I just set the camera recording and went out for a wander...Then got lost in a housing estate. It is literally just me wandering around for about 20 minutes, so don't expect anything exciting. Sound and video are just straight off my phone stuck to the windscreen up next to the rear view mirror. Very smooth - driven like a Chauffeur too. It really doesn't take very long to catch up with these modern boxes from standstill!
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No need to change anything now - that looks spot on! Visually maybe not...Though something still needs changing as it's way, way too quiet. Though I do have a sneaky plan to possibly do something about that currently in progress. If it works, excellent...if not I'll only be out a few quid and an hour of work, so we'll see!
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Hmm...I appear in a moment of "I wonder if I could..." to have bought a big (way bigger than needed but it was all I could find locally) sheet of really easily malleable metal...I wonder what my plans for that might be...
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Roll your own back box delete?
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When I had mine you used to be able to get pipes to delete the centre box, never did it to mine but it was supposed to sound great.
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Hmm...I appear in a moment of "I wonder if I could..." to have bought a big (way bigger than needed but it was all I could find locally) sheet of really easily malleable metal...I wonder what my plans for that might be...
Pro stock hood scoop ??
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Undertray and diffuser for the Invacar ?
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Well that worked well...Mission Burble has been a success.
Well...refined rumble anyway. Burble is more of a V8 thing.
Pretty much what you want really. Quiet refined Burble at the low end, but proper howl above about 3500rpm.
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Last Edit: Jul 2, 2020 15:11:30 GMT by Zelandeth
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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What was the deal with that metal sheeting then? Well I noticed something when I last had the tail pipes off. They're just deresonators, so a straight through pipe with a perforated section surrounded by wadding. You can see straight through them. This got me thinking...Could I be really sneaky and essentially just bypass the wadding by slipping a sleeve in? Longer term I do intend to have some proper straight through tailpipes made up...but with the world being a bit nuts at the moment it looks like it will be a while before that's really viable...so time to experiment. This was just the rough cut, things were trimmed back to fit nicer before I actually tried this. I figured given the way things are designed it's dead easy to remove again (it only takes five minutes to pull the back boxes) it was a worthy experiment. The plus side is that thanks to the shape of the silencer, the cranked bit is on the outlet...so the only way the sleeve can come out is back through the inlet side, so there's really no way that it could fall out the pipe while driving or anything daft like that. It does mean that section has lost about 0.75mm worth of cross section...but I doubt that really makes any difference...it's still about 10mm wider than where it passes over the rear axle. The initial result was shown in the previous post, but later in the day I managed to get out for a proper test run. I'll take that as a win! That's pretty much exactly the sort of balance I was after. A nice growl at the low end, a proper howl above 3500rpm, but no real drone at either 60 or 70mph which I was most worried about. I think the car sounds like it looks like it should now... Yeah...I think we have our blueprint for getting something made up properly down the road. I really need to get a new phone case that doesn't rattle annoyingly when recording video.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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The ominous sounding ticking/chuffing noise has been identified. It's an inlet manifold leak right next to the injector for cylinder 6A.
I could tell pretty much for certain that it was nothing to do with the exhaust because it was coming from the wrong place. It seemed to be coming from within the V rather than the outside. Hence me wondering if it was combustion gases leaking by the plug or possibly signs of a leaking head gasket.
Then I noticed a bit of oily residue (because everything is covered in oil) that was "wobbling" in an odd way on the manifold to head joint just forward of the fuel injector.
I was just about able to capture this on camera, though access is appalling, because V12.
Reasonably sure this is the source of it as if I stick a bit of grease on the end of my finger and put it there the ticking immediately stops. Though this is the first time I've ever heard a leaky exhaust manifold like tick from a leak on the inlet side.
Well as the inlet manifolds are scheduled to come off as soon as the injection parts arrive anyway that should be sorted at the same time as obviously new manifold gaskets will be going on then.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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Roll your own back box delete? So, where's me prize then? Sounds sweet now.
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Have started to do a little bit of cleaning up in the Jag's engine bay while I was hunting for the ticking noise, just to make it slightly less unpleasant to touch. To be honest I really just need to hit the whole engine bay with the degreaser and pressure washer as there is just so much caked on congealed oil in a lot of places it's not even funny. The timing cover on A bank has obviously been leaking in such a way that it's dripped onto the alternator fan, which has done a fantastic job of liberally coating that entire quarter of the engine bay from sump to bonnet level in the stuff. Also explains why the belt keeps slipping! There were a couple of obvious leaks I could easily do something about short term though - the PCV connection into the manifold on B bank had obviously been weeping slightly for decades, just isn't a particularly snug fit on the barb the hose sits on. One hose clip added to hopefully resolve that problem. It's very obvious where I've given the inlet manifold a bit of a scrub around where the oil was..So the manifolds *will* clean up okay with a bit of a scrub. Just a shame so little of them is actually accessible! Information labels are mostly actually in surprisingly good shape under the grime. The whole lot really needs a darn good scrub from top to bottom. I'll probably look to give it a going over once before I start pulling manifolds off as I really want to reduce the odds of me dropping gunk into the engine - though properly blasting all the crud off the lower areas may as well wait until after I've sorted the cam cover gaskets as I'm reasonably sure that's where about 90% of the oil is coming from. Though getting rid of at least some of it will help show up what's historic and what's still currently escaping. I've never had to actually top the oil up - but having said that it does take something like 11.5 litres of it so you need to lose quite a bit I imagine before it will show on the dipstick! If anyone enjoys the really fiddly work associated with detailing engine bays...Be my guest! he immediate urgent job for the Jag though is tyres. What I hadn't spotted when I looked at them originally (and observed that there's excessive wear on the inner shoulder), was that the driver's side one is worn far more badly on half its rotation to the other half - and it was the good side that I originally looked at. It's still legal as the tread is still above the legal limit over more than 75% of the width of the tyre and it's not down to the cords or anything like that, but it definitely needs changing now. The fact that it's got about 0.75mm more tread on half the tyre than the other probably accounts for the horrible out-of-balance like vibration at specific speeds. The rears have plenty of tread, but are pretty cheap, the best part of ten years old, and starting to perish in several spots. As with the front ones, they are also the wrong size. The car is currently fitted with 205/75 R15 tyres with a speed rating of H. It should be wearing 215/70 R15 W tyres really. I can't recall what load rating they are, but definitely lower than what's stated as being OEM fitment. This size doesn't give me a huge amount of variety for appropriate rubber, it's a very common size for van tyres so you have to do a bit of sifting through the listings to find what is actually applicable. While I'd love to fit the Pirelli Cinturatos that were original spec - at £400 odd each, that just isn't happening. Much as my sense of order would enjoy actually having the specific tyres listed in the handbook on the car. It needs to be a period looking tyre though, something with a very modern tread pattern would just look violently out of place on a car like the Jag. Plus I'd really prefer a tyre with a nice squidgy sidewall like would originally have been fitted to ensure we get as decent a ride as possible. The one I seem to keep coming back to is the Vredestein Sprint Classic, which the cheapest I've found so far is £224 apiece over here on MyTyres.f anyone has seen them cheaper anywhere else please feel free to sing out. Camskill are one provider I've heard a lot of people mention, however they only have two tyres available in this size, and they're both van types. Pretty much wherever I go, that bill is still going to sting! Still waiting for the air conditioning pulley puller to arrive. I got duped by a dodgy Amazon page again, which proudly proclaims to be a UK based seller in several locations...however has a tiny asterisk and states in about 0.2pt text "Goods may be dispatched from our warehouse in the People's Republic of China." So that will turn up at some point down the road...precisely when though is anyone's guess. At least it's not massively urgent. Had to make another run up the motorway today and can confirm that the exhaust is not at all obtrusive at speed, which is nice. The cruise control is also behaving far better now I've adjusted the cable a bit so the actuator is actually pulling the cable straight rather than at about 30 degrees as it was before. I imagine once the tyres and brakes are done it will be like a different car to drive.
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,359
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1985 Jaguar XJ-S V12 HEglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Oponeo and Black Circles would be worth checking out for tyres.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Did some more digging this evening:
MyTyres: £224 EA Inc fitting. Openeo: £224 EA + Fitting. Black Circles: Not Available. Vintage Tyres: £309.60 + Fitting. Just Tyres: Not Available. Camskill: Not Available. Mr. Tyre: Not Available. Formula 1: Not Available. National: Not Available. Tyres Direct: Not Available. Kwik-Fit: Not Available. Tyre Leader: £225 Inc Fitting. Costco: Not Available. ATS: Not Available.
Looks like around £225 is about as cheap as I'm going to get.
The Maxxis ones are a good shout, but putting budget tyres on a 1700kg 300bhp, rear wheel drive sports coupe seems a bit of a poor call. Plus they're a modern looking tyre and I have to wonder if they have the flexibility in the structure that I'd really like to see.
I can't quite decide whether the BF Goodrich with the muscle car look would really work...or really not work. Not sure! Both of those have a lower speed rating though. Not that it really affects my use...but it would be nice to have things as the factory intended.
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Last Edit: Jul 5, 2020 0:09:50 GMT by Zelandeth
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.
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