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Apr 22, 2020 22:13:06 GMT
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Very worthy. I drove one of these new. Was one of the m.d’s cars where I worked at the time. V. fast at the time, think I was driving a mk2 Astra 1.3 at the time as a daily. Keep up the good work, it’s a beaut.
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village
Part of things
Always carries a toolbox. Because Volkswagen.......
Posts: 567
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Apr 22, 2020 22:19:36 GMT
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If you're looking for steel 17s, give SC VW customs a try, he can supply 17s (he posted a picture of a T25 on 17s he supplied on FB today).
You posted earlier that T5 steels were a possibility, but they have a pcd of 5x120 rather than 5x112 on the T4.
Love the car BTW
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"The White Van is strong with this one...."
Chris "Chesney" Allen 1976-2005 RIP
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Marc
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,037
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Apr 25, 2020 18:57:32 GMT
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Really enjoyed this thread. Something awesome about an old car still doing what it was designed to do. Bookmarked.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Boost hose So I decided I'm not paying 90 quid plus tax and shipping for a silicone hose. Found a silicone hose for a bmw. 70mm one side, 60mm the other with a bend in it. Hose no.1 Waited a good 10 days for it to get here. It's 50mm one side and about 58mm the other side. I cannot stand this sort of nonsense. Whether they've made a manufacture error or otherwise I have asked for a full refund and I've ordered another hose instead. A generic 45 degree 70mm-60mm reducer hose Hose no.2 No.2 hose should arrive around next weekend now. At just shy of 20 quid it's a lot cheaper than the one made for the car by the specialists and comes with new clamps. It doesn't have the convoluted bit in the middle but being an inline mounted engine I can't see the front to rear movement being much. Side to side movement maybe but there's enough flex in the hose to cope with that. The hole in the old pipe
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Last Edit: May 2, 2020 16:31:19 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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New hose turned up today. Had to cut it down a bit but it fits nicely and seems thicker than the bmw one. It's also red. Job jobbed
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Excellent.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 13, 2020 19:35:47 GMT
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Thought I'd give a little update on the daily. All has been going well since the boost hose has been fixed. The radio the car came to me with was a horrible Tevion modern flashy Bluetooth thing. Wired in so that it's permanently on unless you power it off and speakers wired in wonky, the fronts being font left and rear right and the opposite wired in for the back. Also intermittent in operation. Anyway, while driving the facia decided to ping itself off onto the floor. The little plastic tab thing had broken off. And in the bin it went. I fancied something a bit more period. Had to have red display to match the car, aux lead, tape player and preferably rds radio and some half decent output. Found this Came with a fault with the tape deck. It all functioned properly except slow playback which just turned out to be the belt had jumped off the motor pulley. Wired it into the car having removed a lot of scotch blocks. The existing wiring only allows it to run on battery power, no switched power so I need to run a wire from somewhere so it comes on automatically. It all works though. I've got the aux working through the ai-net CD changer port. Just need a cage and the surround to finish it off. Next on the to-do list. Brakes After having to brake sharply I got a grinding noise from the brakes. Nursed it home thinking it was the fronts. The brake wear indicator is snapped on one of the fronts and they looked low so ordered new pads. Took old pads of only to find they still had meat on them. Turns out its the rear The pad material has separated from the backing. The front discs are also warped and some rust is starting to appear at the rear edge of the front wheel arch so thought sod it and started stripping everything down for a refresh. Wanted to paint the front calipers red to match the rears anyway. The extent of the rust. It's actually just part of the front wings the sills are fine. New metal welded in both sides And painted for now in jotun epoxy paint. I will repaint one day. I also took the time to strip, rust treat and paint the struts. Front calipers have received a lick of paint I've ordered front and rear caliper rebuild kits and sliders, front and rear discs and pads, flexi hoses and front wheel bearings as there's a bit of play. Edit* The brake refresh is very much a temporary measure to keep it roadworthy. I plan on upgrading to bigger discs and audi Q7 brake calipers for the front. Not sure on the back yet. The whole front end will need re-bushing as well as a lick of paint. Before all that though, the 5 speed box I have needs fitting as the 3 speed auto is dire. To do that I might need to buy a scrapper for all the bits
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Last Edit: Jul 13, 2020 20:35:13 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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imanon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7
Club RR Member Number: 43
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Jul 13, 2020 20:32:35 GMT
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Wired it into the car having removed a lot of scotch blocks. The existing wiring only allows it to run on battery power, no switched power so I need to run a wire from somewhere so it comes on automatically. Check the ignition switch for a small terminal. This should go +12v when switched to ign on and go away when you remove the key.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 13, 2020 20:38:53 GMT
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Wired it into the car having removed a lot of scotch blocks. The existing wiring only allows it to run on battery power, no switched power so I need to run a wire from somewhere so it comes on automatically. Check the ignition switch for a small terminal. This should go +12v when switched to ign on and go away when you remove the key. Will do. Was planning on doing either that or running a new ignition switched supply form the fuse board. I need to have a fish around anyway. The electric windows are run from a switch with only the fronts working, which I presume is too get around an electric window module fault and the switches on the dash don't light up with the headlights on. There's something funny going on.
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 24, 2020 13:41:22 GMT
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A simple brake pad swap has turned into a front and rear brake overhaul, rust removal and general tart up of the suspension components. Front bearing change means front strut removal on these....which necessitated cutting off of one of the TCA's...and led me to discover both bottom ball joints are knackered....as are the anti roll bar bushes...and the strut damper rubber gaiters....and the top mounts creak. While I was at it I thought I may as well renew the driveshafts cv joint boots....and the front subframe bushes look shot...as do the gearbox mounts. That leaking 3 speed auto-box which really ruins how this thing drives. Sod it it's all coming out. I already have a 5 speed box to go in and the front end is sloppy to the point of being slightly terrifying in the bends. Struts and anti roll bar out Followed by the front subframe. The bushes on these are notorious for giving a sloppy feel. I've just found out they can be solid mounted with alloy bushes Slight rust on the bottom of the top mounts I think is actually off of the strut tops. On the subject of strut tops, now would be a good time to swap to coil-overs which would give me some precious arch space. I'm regretting not disconnecting the driveshafts from the box while the wheels were still on. I reckon if I had one of those windy rattle guns they'd come off. Which leaves us here at the moment. There's quite a bit to disconnect to remove the box and access is terrible. Mr Haynes is telling me to make an engine support hoist but it already has two engine mounts on its sides and the snubber at the front. It'll be fine. So tax and insurance cancelled on the audi as I reckon it'll be at least 6 months before its on the road again. In other news I've gone an bought a very cheap r53 mini cooper s which has sat for 6 months and then snapped it's aux belt when started up. I reckon water pump is the most likely culprit but we shall see. That means that the yellow mini will be surplus to requirements, which is good as the gearbox is knackered. Probably beyond rebuilding by the sound of it. So I'm toying with just scrapping it as I've got too much work on my plate to warrant rebuilding or replacing the gearbox. So lots happening 😁
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 24, 2020 22:04:00 GMT
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Gearbox came out today There's a couple of jobs I want to do while the gearbox is out and access is so good The brake bomb needs changing as I can feel it recharge while braking And I want to change the central steering rack Bush. This would be a nightmare with the gearbox in. Other than that, the flywheel will need changing. Not sure if I need one that's specific to the mc-2 engine as there seems to be 2 probes. One counting the starter ring teeth and one looking at a pin which I presume is tdc. Both frame rails look good but have light surface rust so I'll sort that. And the bracket that holds the horns on looks like it could do with some intervention before it gets too bad So coming up next will be lots of cleaning and painting Cheers
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 24, 2020 22:23:53 GMT
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On another note, the exhaust from the turbo to the cat, a magnet won't stick to it. Does that mean its stainless?
I'm planning on deleting the cat while I'm underneath and fitting a different backbox
It seems to have quite a large bore right from the turbo
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Great to find other RR's suffering / addicted to Project / Mission Creep
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Ship-wrights disease.....aka project creep..... oh yeah......
Not relevant now but you can change the wheel bearings in situ with bit of cunning, made much easier by one of those screw press tools. My A6 likes to have front wheel bearings every 100k so I’ve had a bit of practice. Taking the legs off is a huge ball-ache, in situ much quicker.
Sounds like you needed to do the other stuff anyway though. Beware the cheap TCAs, the ball joints are rubbish. Buy known brand like Lemforder . What diameter is the arb? If 26mm, good luck finding bushes.
Manual box will transform the car for the better as will the suspension refresh.
Nick
PS. The exhaust probably is stainless. Audi started using it in the late 80s on their higher end cars. My A6 one is mostly original at 24 years 333k, though being diesel helps.
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 26, 2020 13:28:09 GMT
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Ship-wrights disease.....aka project creep..... oh yeah...... Not relevant now but you can change the wheel bearings in situ with bit of cunning, made much easier by one of those screw press tools. My A6 likes to have front wheel bearings every 100k so I’ve had a bit of practice. Taking the legs off is a huge ball-ache, in situ much quicker. Sounds like you needed to do the other stuff anyway though. Beware the cheap TCAs, the ball joints are rubbish. Buy known brand like Lemforder . What diameter is the arb? If 26mm, good luck finding bushes. Manual box will transform the car for the better as will the suspension refresh. Nick PS. The exhaust probably is stainless. Audi started using it in the late 80s on their higher end cars. My A6 one is mostly original at 24 years 333k, though being diesel helps. I reckon it would still be a ballache replacing them in situ though as you'd have to remove the driveshaft anyway which means either removing the driveshafts or disconnecting the strut from the lower ball joint which is half the job anyway. Either way I'm about to invest in one of those hydraulic press things as I've got the two ball joints as well as all the bushes to replace. I haven't measured the anti roll bar. I'm assuming it's the same as the quattro one in which case there are poly bushes available. The sleeve in the old Bush was so rotten it had crumbled into two pieces. Maybe the exhaust is the original then. The cat seems to be mild steel. According to ETKA the exhaust should have the cat and then two silencers. Mine is straight from turbo to the cat and then cat to the backbox, which is what's making me think it's been replaced. I reckon I'm going to have trouble finding a flywheel as there's seems to be a lot of different ones about and mine has the pin for the sensors. Also my manual gearbox has a cable speedo drive but I need an electronic one. Not sure if I can just remove that end drop the electric on in yet. Probably not because audi
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Last Edit: Jul 26, 2020 13:29:52 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Jul 26, 2020 23:03:54 GMT
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If you just need a pin to pick up TDC how hard would that be to add to a different flywheel? Would need balancing after, but it's just a matter of drilling the right size hole and pressing a pin in (possibly with loctite).
Are these engines externally balanced or internally balanced? Might need to balance the flywheel anyway.
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 27, 2020 21:11:05 GMT
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If you just need a pin to pick up TDC how hard would that be to add to a different flywheel? Would need balancing after, but it's just a matter of drilling the right size hole and pressing a pin in (possibly with loctite). Are these engines externally balanced or internally balanced? Might need to balance the flywheel anyway. Good point and not something I'd thought about and it turns out they're externally balanced. It would be prudent to get any second hand flywheel refaced anyway so I will get the new flywheel balanced to match the flex plate I've taken off. I'm confident I'll be able to get the flywheel with the correct pin in it which would save a lot of mucking about
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1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Gotcha. Don't get rid of your old flywheel as you can use it to balance the new one. You make a sort of pendulum which you bolt onto the old flywheel opposite the balance weight. The balancing people then drill holes in that until the flywheel is balanced. You can then attach that to the new flywheel and balance that to the weight and you've now got a flywheel with the right balance factor Work on Alfa V6s at least
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ivangt6
Part of things
Posts: 776
Club RR Member Number: 132
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Jul 28, 2020 20:57:17 GMT
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Gotcha. Don't get rid of your old flywheel as you can use it to balance the new one. You make a sort of pendulum which you bolt onto the old flywheel opposite the balance weight. The balancing people then drill holes in that until the flywheel is balanced. You can then attach that to the new flywheel and balance that to the weight and you've now got a flywheel with the right balance factor Work on Alfa V6s at least I was hoping something like that was possible lol. Apparently the mc-2 has the heaviest and strongest Rods that audi did in any 5 cylinder, so they don't like to rev much because of the weight but they're incredibly strong units. Should cope with some small imbalance but hopefully I can get the new flywheel pretty close
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Last Edit: Jul 28, 2020 20:58:16 GMT by ivangt6
1979 Mini 1000 1972 Triumph GT6 2007 VW Golf GTi 1979 VW T25 Leisuredrive 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE
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Jul 28, 2020 21:29:25 GMT
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Yeah if the balancing place is half decent they should be able to get it pretty spot on. Strong rods sound like they'd enjoy a lot of boost don't need revs if you have boost
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