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Oct 31, 2019 21:39:22 GMT
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Sounds similar to my 1275cc MG Midget-engined Traveller's overall driving characteristics (also on standard 1098cc gearbox and diff).
Actually, I find it all smooths out quite nicely above an indicated 80 mph or so, not that I get the chance to venture above that often.
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okp
Part of things
Posts: 183
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  Was a little worried having come away for a few days, 3 teens in the back and a boot loaded full, dragging its  , but it didn't miss a beat and kept up very well with the traffic along the m62, even surprised a few idiots. I think ideally I'm going to have to look at either another differential, or a 5 speed box, as its crying out (in pain) for some help at top end Running a little rich, gets to around 60 and starts to drag, but picks straight back up with a little choke and flies off the clock, I'm pretty sure the clock is massively over reading, an indicated 90 on the clock doesn't look like a 90, unless most other cars too are doing 90 in the middle lane |
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If the choke fixes it its probably a bit weak, normally this would be fixed by going down on size in the needles.
Before you do anything though check the jets are perfectly round and what needles you currently have. Although they look good on twin sus they are a lot easier to set up and better to drive on a single hif44, this is what the metro turbo used, if you are using it every day might be worth considering.
The speedo on ours is also over reads by about 20% and its on fairly big (165) tyres, it's strange I would have thought they would underead as they age.
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ovimor
North East
...It'll be ME!
Posts: 934
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+1vote = big single! With a 'two port' head a "BIG 1" won't even be seen by the engine/torque/bhp  OVIMOR |
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Last Edit: Nov 1, 2019 14:13:43 GMT by ovimor
Knowledge is to know a Tomato is a 'fruit' - Wisdom, on the other hand, is knowing not to put it in a 'fruit salad'!
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Aha! I see you've gone for a subtle wheel colour change. Very smart too.
Yes, a large single HIF 44 SU (as fitted to most circa 1989-on Austin Rover cars) is generally considered the preferred choice for a 1275 - just as powerful as twins, without all the hassle, and better driveability and economy to boot.
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If you look at your speedo, below the serial number is a 4-digit number. That is the turns-per-mile figure (TPM).
The TPM for a stock 1098 Minor is 1408, although some were 1376.
If you gear up to a 3.7 diff from a Wolseley 1500, Riley 1.5 or a late Midget 1500, a 1248 TPM speedo (fitted to some Minis) is absolutely spot on with a 175/70x14 tyre.
Failing that, a 1376TPM speedo should be about right with a 3.9 diff and stock diameter tyres.
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1953 Minor (Long term project)
PT Cruiser
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Great looking car that, wonderful shade of yellow. Ive had twin 1 1/2 Su's, and a single 1 3/4 on an A Series. For looks, The twins, for reliability, the single 1 3/4. For performance, theres no real difference, but with the single you get more of the performance more of the time.
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okp
Part of things
Posts: 183
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Aha! I see you've gone for a subtle wheel colour change. Very smart too. I'm not a fan of all silver alloys, was foing to do them gloss black and decided I'd take a little longer and just end the colour at the spokes, it's not black... it's some Porsche volcano grey that I darkened with a little black, they look Matt black but all the pearl pops out when the sun hits them. So a single hif44 would be the better choice for a daily ride and performance wise, Chatting with a friend earlier he mentioned an overdrive box might be the way forward with the issue of the top end speed |
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Overdrive box:- Now are you talking about a gearbox with an overdriven top gear (i.e. a 5-speed) or a 4 speed with an overdrive bolted on the end?
The most common 5-speed conversion uses the Ford Type-9 box. These aren't as common as they used to be and therefore it's not a cheap option anymore. However parts are easy to get, if you shorten the remote housing you won't need to cut the floor, and Europa Spares sell a 1000TPM Mini speedo which is what the Ford speedos work off (Burton power do speedo drive gears to get the speedo accurate).
There were some earlier conversions using Datsun and Toyota boxes, but they're probably even harder to find.
You could fit a Triumph Overdrive box using a Marina/Ital bellhousing, but it's not as straightforward as it sounds. The Marina/Ital bellhousing puts the starter motor in exactly the same place as the chassis rail, so some cutting/welding of the bellhousing will be needed.
Other than that, an MGB box has been mated to an A-series, but I can't find any more info on this. If you're any good at metalwork, you might be able to make a new engine back-plate to use a box that has an integral bellhousing, although you'll still have to work out a clutch and where the starter motor goes. If you want to go down this route, perhaps a Suzuki jeep box could be an option, they're quite compact and the 1.3 versions should take anything the an A-series can throw at it.
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1953 Minor (Long term project)
PT Cruiser
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okp
Part of things
Posts: 183
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I've not looked too much into it in all honesty, I've read elsewhere the triumph spitrlfires were fitted with a bolt on over drive that fits the mg midget 1500 box, not sure if one would fit the standard Morris box. It's not something I'm farmiliar or educated on, I need to read up and do some digging around on it.
I'm just looking for the best way to make the Morris drive as well as it can,
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I'd personally forget about the Ford Type 9 'box - they're very heavy and bulky, plus you need to shorten the remote extension else the gear lever ends up almost at the handbrake lever (I know, as I tried fitting one, before selling it!)
I've heard of one conversion using a BMW E30 Getrag gearbox, which sounds promising, as they are bullet-proof 'boxes and fairly easy/cheap to find.
If you have the Ital engine, why not fit the matching Marina/Ital gearbox, which is stronger than a Minor one. Potentially, you could fit an overdrive from an MG Midget 1500/Triumph Dolomite 1500 or similar to it, but the propshaft would need to be shortened, of course.
Before going to all that trouble, however, try fitting a 3.7/3.9:1 diff from a Riley 1.5/Wolseley 1500/MG Midget 1275/A-H Sprite 1275, which will raise the overall gearing by a fair margin. The conversion can easily be done in a day.
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I've been looking at a mx5 gearbox, got as far as modiying a marina backplate to bolt it up to the engine but this put the starter in the same place as the chassis leg as mentioned above. The clutch housing also needed cutting to clear the rack. The new plan is to use a 1098 flywheel and starter position, I think the 1.6 mx5 clutch disc will just about work with this, the gearstick extension housing will also need moving forward but as they bolt on its not too difficult. Obviously it will also need a bespoke prop (unless by some miricle the mx5 one fits) and gearbox mount.
I had it in the car but ran out of time when I hit the starter issue so in the end I built it up with the original box.
Hopefully I will dig out the parts and have another go over the winter, anyone got an old mx5 1.6 clutch disc or minor 1098 cover lying around I could use for mock up?
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The BMW Getrag box is a good piece of kit, good & strong, however it's also pretty bulky.
Also, bear in mind that fifth gear on a BMW is 1:1, so you'll still need a taller diff.
As a matter of interest, what size tyres are you running?
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1953 Minor (Long term project)
PT Cruiser
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okp
Part of things
Posts: 183
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If you look at your speedo, below the serial number is a 4-digit number. That is the turns-per-mile figure (TPM). The TPM for a stock 1098 Minor is 1408, although some were 1376. If you gear up to a 3.7 diff from a Wolseley 1500, Riley 1.5 or a late Midget 1500, a 1248 TPM speedo (fitted to some Minis) is absolutely spot on with a 175/70x14 tyre. Failing that, a 1376TPM speedo should be about right with a 3.9 diff and stock diameter tyres. It's a 1408 on my speedo but the box and diff is the standard minor one too, so should be reading accurately, I guess it is 50/60 years old now though. |
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okp
Part of things
Posts: 183
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As a matter of interest, what size tyres are you running? 175 70 14 |
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okp
Part of things
Posts: 183
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I was reading on the differential ratios and people with a 3.7 and 3.9 were saying they're good on motorway, but not so good for round town driving.
I don't really want to be cutting the tunnel about fitting other boxes so I'm stuck in a rut really. At this point I'm half and half decided that I should just live with it how it is, the speedo is roughly 10 mph out so at 90 I'm doing around 75/80
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okp
Part of things
Posts: 183
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Can see in the video above it off the clock, but doesn't really give a view of just how loud and shaky things are
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My mate had a 3.7 diff with 175/70 x 13 tyres and the gearing was about right, even with a fast-road cam and a Midget clutch (not the most progressive of clutches). A large single SU would be more progressive at low revs than twins, so should be Ok around town, especially with a Minor clutch.
With your tyres, I'd go for a 3.9 diff with the 1248TPM speedo. It'll read about 5% fast, but that should be more licence-friendly than 5% slow! IIRC, the 1248TPM speedo was fitted to centre-speedo Mini 1000s, I do know that they are fairly common.
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1953 Minor (Long term project)
PT Cruiser
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A year or two ago, I did try fitting a 3.9:1 Midget/Sprite diff to my 1275 Traveller but found it was indeed a bit 'boggy' around town/pulling out of junctions, etc.
Also, I was disappointed not to see any improvement whatsoever in the fuel economy figures, of around 30-35 mpg.
Considering that the majority of my Minor driving is around the local narrow, hilly country roads and congested traffic around Canterbury, I reverted to the original 4.22:1 diff. (Mine has 165/70R14 tyres, BTW.)
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okp
Part of things
Posts: 183
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Nov 20, 2019 18:22:16 GMT
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Couple of little bits added, not to everyone's taste, but it's not everyone's car 😊 bought an old wipac fog lamp for the front, and some stone guards, just fancied a little nod toward the 50s rally cars   pictures uploadAnd an old lucas spot lamp, always loved the look of them on the old rally cars, big and over the top. Seen a few minis with them on recently. Should illuminate my driveway enough to get on in the dark now the nights have drawn in  Couple of things to attend to over the weekend. I broke the indicator stalk... or rather it wont click in place when indicating left without been held, so I've ordered a rotational switch on off on, and will loose the stalk all together. The headache I got trying to ask if it would be suffice... no its bot an original lucas it will devalue your car and shouldn't be mounted if there wasnt a toggle switch their originally for traficators.... I don't care!! Will it work yes or no 🙈 Also got a rear hub to change as I've sheared a wheel stud |
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