|
|
|
Sept 10, 2019 17:40:28 GMT
|
Hi all
Thought I'd sign up here to write a proper project thread for my AX. I post updates to my instagram (craig_ax) but you can't really go into much detail on there. I realise my AX is nearly new compared to most of your builds, but I hope some of you take an interest in what I'm doing. I'm by no means a mechanic, but I'm learning as I go and really enjoying it.
Anyway, I bought my AX Spree 1.0 (the bottom spec) for £300 from a guy from the AXownersclub. Came with a full ticket and a box of service parts 
The plan is to swap all the running gear and engine to Saxo VTS spec (1.6 16v)
My first task was to swap the 3 stud struts over to 4 stud.
As the Saxo struts have 3 bolts in the top mount, and AX only has 2, you have to fit AX top mounts on to the Saxo struts. As well as this, you also need to fit AX springs, which then means you need AX spring cups. So after putting together these frankenstein struts, along with some Bilsteins, it looked it little bit like this-
I have since taken the droplinks off and opted to go for an AX GT antirollbar, which bolts directly to the wishbones. Next up was to fit VTS brakes and new wishbones. I picked up some cheap 206 alloys as a placeholder while I decided what wheels I wanted to go for eventually.
With the front pretty much finished, I made a start on the rear axle. Some people go for the disk beam from the VTS but I have read lots of stories about how they tend to lock up way too easily, and as this is just going to be a road car with the odd trackday, and not a competition car, I thought I'd stick with the drum beam. It also means I don't need to play around with brake bias. I also fitted Bilsteins on the back and renewed the copper brake pipes after I wrecked one of them accidently The non-abs models had 260mm drums, and the abs models came with 280mm, so I went with the latter
Next I stripped the interior and painted the floor matt black to cover over the ugly pink overspray you get from the factory. I'll be fitting some buckets, but not til the thing is running. Oh and new steering wheel. I also discovered a spot of rust on an otherwise solid shell. Unusual for these to go behind the rear bench holder things. Sprayed over the rust for now, will see to it later.
Put the 206 wheels on the back. Planned on having a productive day disconnecting the engine, only to find the car impossible to move as the rear tyres were tight up against the axle. I bought some brand new 13 inch saxo steelies that have a lower offset, and painted them white. Would like to have some wider tyres than 165's, but I would have to cut the flat arches out and fit the GT bodykit. I'd like to keep it looking like a 1.0l if at all possible, but if I decide bigger tyres are needed then so be it.
As you can see, the smaller wheels with the lower profiles leave quite a large arch gap with the 30mm springs. I'm going to see how the heavier engine affects the height, but I'll probably end up putting coilovers on the front.
Now I'm able to move the car, I turned it around and disconnected the engine
Then I assembled my new engine hoist and dropped the engine to the floor. With AX's its far easier to lower the engine to the floor and lift the car, rather than take it out the top, as the gearbox mount sits quite far across the gearbox.
And this is as far as I have got. This weekend I'll be lifting the car and dragging the engine out from underneath. I'm going to be using the 1.0l box with the VTS engine as it has the best ratios for acceleration. I'll also be swapping the alternator brackets to the new engine as the 8v alt is much smaller.
Thanks for reading |
| |
Last Edit: Sept 26, 2020 8:38:30 GMT by craigax
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 11, 2019 7:50:23 GMT
|
|
should make for a tidy little sleeper
|
| |
Its not broken, its resting!
Max signature image height: 80px
|
|
gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330 
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
|
Sept 11, 2019 9:45:09 GMT
|
|
I like your plans - and the progress looks rather good too. That is going to be fun!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 11, 2019 15:52:03 GMT
|
|
This looks like a fun project and potentially hilarious to drive once finished! A friend of mine had an ax gt way back, it was fairly quick...
Do you know what the current and expected bhp figures are?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 11, 2019 16:05:26 GMT
|
Great project! These are nice cleanly designed cars, easy to work on, and plenty of parts interchangability by the looks of it! Looking forward to your progress. I like the white steels too, nicer than the alloys IMHO.  |
| |
1968 Mini MkII, 1968 VW T1, 1967 VW T1, 1974 VW T1, 1974 VW T1 1303, 1975 Mini 1000 auto, 1979 Chevette, 1981 Cortina, 1978 Mini 1000 1981 Mini City, 1981 Mini van, 1974 Mini Clubman, 1982 Metro City, 1987 Escort, 1989 Lancia Y10, 1989 Cavalier, 1990 Sierra, 1990 Renault 19, 1993 Nova, 1990 Citroen BX, 1994 Ford Scorpio, 1990 Renault Clio, 2004 Citroen C3, 2006 Citroen C2, 2004 Citroen C4, 2013 Citroen DS5. 2017 DS3 130 Plenty of other scrappers!
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 11, 2019 16:59:43 GMT
|
Thanks everyone This looks like a fun project and potentially hilarious to drive once finished! A friend of mine had an ax gt way back, it was fairly quick... Do you know what the current and expected bhp figures are? Well these 1.0s are at about 50bhp. A standard VTS engine is 120bhp, so with cams, decat, induction and a decent map, I'd hope to see about 145bhp. You can strip these cars down to about 650kg, which gets you to 225bhp per ton 😁 As a comparison, the AX GT was 85bhp as standard |
| |
Last Edit: Jan 4, 2020 17:36:05 GMT by craigax
|
|
piguin
Part of things
Posts: 136
|
|
Sept 12, 2019 8:57:13 GMT
|
|
Ah, this brings back memories of my first gen AX 1.1.
Lovely cars, their lack of weight makes them way faster than they have any right to be, with the VTS engine it is going to be a riot!
The white wheels give a hint of 106 Rallye (as the equivalent but alas detuned AX Sport had 3 lug wheels) and they pop out a lot - might want to consider hubcaps though if you are going for the sleeper look.
Did I mention how much I love this? Put the engine in already!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 12, 2019 9:05:27 GMT
|
|
A potential 145bhp and 225bhp per tonne? Brilliant.
You should take this to trackdays, it’ll be awesome.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 12, 2019 9:14:49 GMT
|
|
edit
|
| |
Last Edit: Jan 4, 2020 17:12:30 GMT by craigax
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 12, 2019 9:15:58 GMT
|
A potential 145bhp and 225bhp per tonne? Brilliant. You should take this to trackdays, it’ll be awesome. Thats the plan 😁 I was at Shelsley Walsh this year, would love to have a run up that hill. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Been a while, but I have an update.
Spent the last few weeks trying to get bits and bobs for the new engine, timing covers, engine mounts, thermostat housing, and a belt and pump.
Here is the VTS engine with new belt, pump and tensioners
The engine mounting block wouldn't fit properly so we had to cut a small piece off it. It was fouling against the head so I suspect the block we got was from a C2 VTS and not a saxo, as these had different heads. Not a problem though as the bottom ends were the same, which is what the block bolts onto
With the car high up on axle stands, we dragged the new engine under the bay and lifted it up with the hoist. Much easier this way than above, as the upper gearbox mount sits quite far across, so the engine would have to be dropped at quite an angle otherwise. So after a bit of a struggle, I now have the engine in
Next up is sorting out the cooling system. There a few different radiator setups people use, but I think I'm going to opt for a VTR rad as its not as wide as the VTS one, and I think I'll mount it behind the bumper rather than in the engine bay, as it would be sitting VERY close to the exhaust manifold otherwise. I've already bought an engine loom and ECU from someone who was breaking another AX VTS, so I'm hoping it wont need any splicing and that the ECU is unlocked.
Going through the process of buying my first house now too so progress may slow down (even more) for a bit.
Thanks!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
How much do the engine mount designs and positions differ on these 16v engines compared to the 8v TU engines?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
How much do the engine mount designs and positions differ on these 16v engines compared to the 8v TU engines? I've never actually owned a Saxo so I don't know what their mounts are like. The AX's arm fits straight into the 16v mounting block though. Aside from a polybush in the rear mount, all the mounts are standard AX. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Made a list of everything I need to do to get this running:
Crank pulley bolt
Bottom mount nut
8v alternator
Manifold and wrap
Alloy rad with slimline fans
Thermo housing
Rear water outlet
ECU and loom
Silicon coolant hoses
TPS ICV
Modify throttle cable
Induction kit
Dipstick
Gear linkages
Fuel pump
Driveshafts and check suspension
Refit wonky brake disk
Battery
Gearbox covers
Check all bolts and clips
Gearbox oil
Engine oil, filter
Bleed brakes
Exhaust
Strut braces
Seats/harnesses/cage
...so not too much haha
|
| |
Last Edit: Jan 8, 2020 8:36:45 GMT by craigax
|
|
slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
|
|
|
|
|
Looks good on the white rims. Just needs levelling up when all done 🙂
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
See how you notched your upper mount, that was the failure point that lead to the demise of my 16v s1 rallye. It broke, engine fell back and the cam gears rubbed off something and ripped the belt off. Spoox do a mount that pops up on ebay not and again for about £60 (its £100ish new) and it takes away any worry about that mount snapping. My cut/notched mount lasted two trackdays and about 4 months of hard driving before it gave up and wrecked my 144bhp jp4 engine  |
| |
1994 S1 106 Rallyé
1996 Mini Cooper 1.3 MPI (Rust bucket, currently in for surgery/resto)
2003 Renaultsport Clio 172 (Daily beater)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
See how you notched your upper mount, that was the failure point that lead to the demise of my 16v s1 rallye. It broke, engine fell back and the cam gears rubbed off something and ripped the belt off. Spoox do a mount that pops up on ebay not and again for about £60 (its £100ish new) and it takes away any worry about that mount snapping. My cut/notched mount lasted two trackdays and about 4 months of hard driving before it gave up and wrecked my 144bhp jp4 engine Oh dear, thats good to know. I'll keep an eye out for one of those mounts then. Thanks mate and sorry about your engine |
| |
Last Edit: Jan 9, 2020 7:51:09 GMT by craigax
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ah that was 10 years ago, I've just about got over it. I still miss that car daily, it was a complete handful. I've a standard(ish) S1 rallye at the minute, it's 108bhp but it's missing the 16v imo. I'd love to drop a JP4 in it but they're a lot more desirable with the TU2J2.
I've a mate with a well set up S1 1.6 8v XSI that he uses for hillclimbing and for the last two years he's came second in almost every race to an AX GT. It's driving him to the point where he was considering selling up and buying an ax lol.
Could you squeeze some S1 rallye steels on there? They're 14" and 5.5" wide, S2 steels are 14" and 6" wide
|
| |
1994 S1 106 Rallyé
1996 Mini Cooper 1.3 MPI (Rust bucket, currently in for surgery/resto)
2003 Renaultsport Clio 172 (Daily beater)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
1994 S1 106 Rallyé
1996 Mini Cooper 1.3 MPI (Rust bucket, currently in for surgery/resto)
2003 Renaultsport Clio 172 (Daily beater)
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2020 19:19:42 GMT
|
Ah that was 10 years ago, I've just about got over it. I still miss that car daily, it was a complete handful. I've a standard(ish) S1 rallye at the minute, it's 108bhp but it's missing the 16v imo. I'd love to drop a JP4 in it but they're a lot more desirable with the TU2J2. I've a mate with a well set up S1 1.6 8v XSI that he uses for hillclimbing and for the last two years he's came second in almost every race to an AX GT. It's driving him to the point where he was considering selling up and buying an ax lol. Could you squeeze some S1 rallye steels on there? They're 14" and 5.5" wide, S2 steels are 14" and 6" wide
I'd love a rallye myself but I just couldn't justify paying that bit extra for a slower engine. They are cool as tits though. The S1 steels definitely fit the GT/GTI models, got a friend who used to own an AX GTI with them on. I would have to cut out the rear arch and put the GT kit on though. I'd possibly get away with just rolling the arch maybe, something to think about later. You don't happen to know the offset of them?
Looking at your link, I think we have crossed wires over this mount. I didn't use that arm you posted, I've used the standard AX one. The bit that I cut is form the block that the arm bolts onto. Hope that makes sense. Reckon it will be alright?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
